Changing wheel bearings
#11
@dan888: Until recently I would have agreed with your assessment that wheel bearing replacement is overkill on a relatively low mileage bike like yours (7000 mi). *My experience & observation over the last couple decades has been that wheel bearings are failing with greater frequency than before. *I have turned 50-100,000 Km on older bikes without incident but more recently, I have seen bearing failure at 20-30,000km.
Perhaps bearing quality isn't what it used to be(?). *Certainly pressure washers, the enemy of bearings, have proliferated. *Bikes are also generating more stresses on bearings than ever before.
When bearings begin to fail, they fail fast. You don't get much warning between initial signs and destruction. *Freeplay, noise, & heat are all tell-tales of imminent failure so they shouldn't be ignored. Also using a torque wrench on axle nuts will help prevent excessive pressure on bearings.
Regarless, thanks for the pics and the proof that regular bearing replacement should be considered as part of a mentenence schedule...
Typographical errors by*iPhone
Perhaps bearing quality isn't what it used to be(?). *Certainly pressure washers, the enemy of bearings, have proliferated. *Bikes are also generating more stresses on bearings than ever before.
When bearings begin to fail, they fail fast. You don't get much warning between initial signs and destruction. *Freeplay, noise, & heat are all tell-tales of imminent failure so they shouldn't be ignored. Also using a torque wrench on axle nuts will help prevent excessive pressure on bearings.
Regarless, thanks for the pics and the proof that regular bearing replacement should be considered as part of a mentenence schedule...
Typographical errors by*iPhone
#12
Just thought I'd share : my stock bearings weren't sealed either.
One little trick I use is to grind a bit off the outside diameter of the old bearing and use it to help tap in the new one. Grinding it allows you to remove the old bearing once the new one is fully seated.
One little trick I use is to grind a bit off the outside diameter of the old bearing and use it to help tap in the new one. Grinding it allows you to remove the old bearing once the new one is fully seated.
#13
Just thought I'd share : my stock bearings weren't sealed either.
One little trick I use is to grind a bit off the outside diameter of the old bearing and use it to help tap in the new one. Grinding it allows you to remove the old bearing once the new one is fully seated.
One little trick I use is to grind a bit off the outside diameter of the old bearing and use it to help tap in the new one. Grinding it allows you to remove the old bearing once the new one is fully seated.
#15
Good write up and reminder to all that a bad bearing can ruin your whole day....or holiday..Do you happen to have the front and rear seal part numbers handy?
Thnx
Thnx
#16
Thats what living rooms are for. All it takes is a little plastic and a rather large bouquet of roses.
#19
Eric, it was March 10th 2009 and I was freezing my a$$ off trying to get those same hubs off my truck. I nearly had to call a flatbed wrecker to come get the truck, and have a po-fessinal mechanic show me how to do it. They were so rusted in, no amount of heat or force would budge them at first. Perseverance and some Kano-kroil penetrant oil (Penetrating-Lubricating Oils best stuff ever) eventually got the hubs out. I have a picture of me flipping the hubs the bird.
Dan
Dan
#20
OK looked around town and the net for bearings. I really thought I might save some money by buying the individual bearings at Motion Industries, the local industrial supply house for belts, hoses ,bearings, and such. WRONG-O each front was quoted at $10 and the rears were $28 each. The dust seals were all $2 something each. Over $80!!??
All ***** kits for the KLX on eBay were $15 front, and $23 rear shipped.
RockyMountainATV was $11 front and $16 rear plus $7 shipping.
I ended up going with the MOOSE RACING kit from the local shop (glad to give them the business) $10 front, and $18 rear, no shipping charges. Picked them up the next day.
The MOOSE bearings actually turned out to be the All ***** bearings repackaged. The package does say that they are made in China We will see how they work.
Dan
Front bearings
Rear bearings
All ***** kits for the KLX on eBay were $15 front, and $23 rear shipped.
RockyMountainATV was $11 front and $16 rear plus $7 shipping.
I ended up going with the MOOSE RACING kit from the local shop (glad to give them the business) $10 front, and $18 rear, no shipping charges. Picked them up the next day.
The MOOSE bearings actually turned out to be the All ***** bearings repackaged. The package does say that they are made in China We will see how they work.
Dan
Front bearings
Rear bearings
Last edited by dan888; 01-27-2012 at 11:23 PM.