Kind of sounds like the chain was abused and allowed to rust. Watch it carefully on a stand while turning the wheel and see if one of the links is binding.

 

does anyone have a manual in pdf form or something, i need to know how to adjust the stuff on it. i drenched the chain in the above lube a couple times in the last couple days and went on a very short ride tonight and it sounds better, want to check the chain tension and the alignment and the spacers like suggested, but the manual on the sticky page says the download was bad...

 

Send me an email at maninthesea@hotmail.com & I can email it too you when I get to work tommorrow morning.
Cheers, Jim

 

After talking with the previous owner the bike sat outdoors for its first year while he was deployed. After that it was ridden less than 350 miles from new till I got it a month ago. I just rolled it over to 500 so I see rust in the chain I called a reputable cycle shop today and was quoted 135.00 to 150.00 for new chain 14t sprckt installed. Does this sound fair?

 

You seriously can't install a chain and sprocket yourself? Why not just buy it and do it yourself?

 

Usually I don't like to jsut change the chain but this bike is nearly new and the problem sounds like the chain itself has failed. I would just buy a new O-ring or X-ring chain from rockymountain and put it on. It will be really easy since you shouldn't need to even remove a wheel. The reason you replace sprockets along with chains is that the sprockets wear out too and the worn sprockets will cause a new chain to wear rapidly. Your sprockets shouldn't be worn.

 

I agree and was thinking the same thing. Sprockets are relatively large chunks of metal, and any rust and pitting would have to be huge to require replacement. Since these have so little mileage on them, I'd reuse them and get a new chain. A chain has articulating parts and seals, and corrosion and rust will have a much more negative impact on it.

 

sounds good, everyone.. i will look at all the options, i could do it myself,i know my way around a toolbox as i build and race cars as a hobby, but looking into it some you need the tools which i do not at this time due to an international move(Military), so when the shop told me 35 bucks to install and check alignment and everything i didnt think that was so bad, as im new to bikes and the tools would cost more than that..

also, AKAROB use a lil tact when talking to people as being rude only make people not want to listen to anything you have to say.

 

The only tool you'll need is a pair of needle nose pliers to take apart the master link. You should have this tool in your Kawi supplied tool kit or, well, everyone should have a pair of pliers. You'll also need a big crescent wrench to loosen the axle nut which will allow you to set the tension on the new chain. A 12mm box open end wrench for the adjuster too. So, three tools. I bet your Kawi tool kit has most of them.

Cheap fix in any case, even if the shop installs the chain you buy. Do check out the rockymountain site for chains. I have bought many final drive components from them and the prices are great.

 

Front sprocket noise especially when I went from 14 to 13 is what I call normal. My sprocket still looks new after 10,000 miles. I know thats hard to believe, but its true. It made the noise from day one. You really dont notice unless you lean forward. Also the stock sprocket had a noise and vibration feature that after markets ones don't. So that added some noise.