Chain clicking noise
#12
There is a screw type adjuster at the end of the swing arm. Just loosen the rear axle bolt and screw in the adjusters on eash side. Make sure you do both equally or you will mis-align the wheel.
#13
Refer to the owners manual as it will tell you how much or little slack the chain needs & you need to ensure you align it or it will wear quickly & make the bike handle like crap..
Here are some grabs from the manual I have on pdf..
Ed.
Here are some grabs from the manual I have on pdf..
Ed.
#14
thank you!
#15
Hey fellow KLX-ers. My master link is tight and I think causes mine to sound clicky. Im adjusted to about 2.2 inches slack but stretching rapidly due to enjoying my self. Just being lazy on changing it out. 1,000 miles on the bike. New Moose 13t sprocket up front. Chain is lubed to the max. First slathered in 90 weight several times and then lubed using legit chain lube from the can. The can worked tons better- cleaned the chain deeply (use the straw) and the oil did not spray off when I rode like 90w oil does.
#16
Clicking is usually due to hooked sprockets and not enough lube. Hooked sprockets indicate the need for new chain and sprockets.
By the way, the best way to make sure the rear wheel is aligned properly is to measure from the swingarm pivot center to the axle center on each side. They should be equal. I never trust the marks on the swingarm, just because.
To make sure you don't get too tight you can either have a couple of people sit on the bike or tie the rear end down to the point where the rear axle, swing arm pivot, and countershaft centers are in line. That will be the point where the chain is pulled the tightest. There should be a bit of play at that point, otherwise you are putting serious stress on the countershaft and wheel bearings. Too much stress and the bearing gets damaged. Possibly big money if it is the countershaft bearing, that's a complete engine teardown to get to the bearing. Better to run slightly loose on the chain than too tight.
I figure about an inch of easy play when compressed to the point of alignment of the countershaft, swingarm pivot, and axle centerlines. That allows for any eccentricity of the sprockets (they will never be perfect).
By the way, the best way to make sure the rear wheel is aligned properly is to measure from the swingarm pivot center to the axle center on each side. They should be equal. I never trust the marks on the swingarm, just because.
To make sure you don't get too tight you can either have a couple of people sit on the bike or tie the rear end down to the point where the rear axle, swing arm pivot, and countershaft centers are in line. That will be the point where the chain is pulled the tightest. There should be a bit of play at that point, otherwise you are putting serious stress on the countershaft and wheel bearings. Too much stress and the bearing gets damaged. Possibly big money if it is the countershaft bearing, that's a complete engine teardown to get to the bearing. Better to run slightly loose on the chain than too tight.
I figure about an inch of easy play when compressed to the point of alignment of the countershaft, swingarm pivot, and axle centerlines. That allows for any eccentricity of the sprockets (they will never be perfect).
#17
Welcome to KF BajaBlaKe
A nice thread to resurrect. Even has pictures! lol
Replace the chain the same time you get that new CS put on.
^+1 on what klx678 mentioned concerning alignment and not overtightening your chain.
A nice thread to resurrect. Even has pictures! lol
Replace the chain the same time you get that new CS put on.
^+1 on what klx678 mentioned concerning alignment and not overtightening your chain.
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