Carb question

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  #1  
Old 05-07-2008 | 07:06 PM
glava2876's Avatar
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Default Carb question

Well now that my sons"submarine" KXL is all straighetned out and running great, I can get back to the changes on mine and installing the dynajet carb kit. I know that this information is available in many places, but somtimes the information is a little different depending on where it is located and I wanted to get opinions on my specific set up and how I should jet the carb.
Themodifications on my bike are -the KDX snorkel, 1/2" drilled the rear most baffle of the silencer and installed a 13T front sproket and that is all that I am going to do.
I'm in Central NY near Syracuse and wondered what jets and needle clip position everyone recommends.
Thanks, Glen
 
  #2  
Old 05-07-2008 | 08:30 PM
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Default RE: Carb question

ORIGINAL: glava2876

Well now that my sons"submarine" KXL is all straighetned out and running great, I can get back to the changes on mine and installing the dynajet carb kit. I know that this information is available in many places, but somtimes the information is a little different depending on where it is located and I wanted to get opinions on my specific set up and how I should jet the carb.
Themodifications on my bike are -the KDX snorkel, 1/2" drilled the rear most baffle of the silencer and installed a 13T front sproket and that is all that I am going to do.
I'm in Central NY near Syracuse and wondered what jets and needle clip position everyone recommends.
Thanks, Glen
Just follow the directions in the kit and use the 128 Main Jet. Make sure you put the little washers *on top* of the circlip on the needle. Drill the slide with the included drill bit.Take the air box lid off. Try to fine a KLX300R exhaust and put that on in the future.
db
 
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Old 05-07-2008 | 08:32 PM
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I would use a 125 jet with the stock exhaust. Also turn the fuel air screw till it stops popping on decel and u should be good.
 
  #4  
Old 05-07-2008 | 08:38 PM
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Oh yeah, clip position 4 from the top of the needle. 2 1/2 turns on the fuel/air screw but you may have to fine tune by tweaking a little after it warms up. This is where the extended fuel screw comes in handy. Also, I went to the hardware and bought new screws for the float bowl as they can be a pain to get out. If you have a small impact driver or the correct Japanese phillips its not a problem. I replaced with allen head cap screws in stainless.
db

added: stainless steel cap screws and the best size to use is 4mm x 7 pitch x 16mm long. Get 4 SS lock washers too.
db
 
  #5  
Old 05-07-2008 | 08:41 PM
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Good Idea dave, I cut slits in the screws and made them Slotted heads instead of phillips to get them out of the carb. They overtighten them so much when they put it together.
 
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Old 05-07-2008 | 08:42 PM
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Oh yea forgot to tell ya. when I start mine its so easy. Dont even pull the enrichner most of the time!
 
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Old 05-07-2008 | 08:46 PM
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Good Idea dave, I cut slits in the screws and made them Slotted heads instead of phillips to get them out of the carb. They overtighten them so much when they put it together.
I used a vise grips! But I was planning on using the new screws anyways. I have an impact driver but it is too large for small stuff. The bits are way too big. I need to get a small one some day...
db
 
  #8  
Old 05-07-2008 | 08:48 PM
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AHH I see. ya I guess vise grips work too. I chose to use a hacksaw and a regular tipped screwdriver.
 
  #9  
Old 05-07-2008 | 08:54 PM
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Default RE: Carb question


I wouldn't even bother putting the Dynojet kit in unless I was replacing the muffler too IMO!
 
  #10  
Old 05-07-2008 | 09:21 PM
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Default RE: Carb question

I'd skip the dyno jet kit and contactwww.motorcyclecarbs.com they set me up with a 36-68 TM ON MY STOCK BORE 250. It works awesome. Note I have a k&n filter no lid, and hmf pipe 14/53t ratio. I did the dyno jet and slides and and and... I wish I had of just brought the carb first save a step or two

 


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