carb mods done- still not perfect ?????
#1
06-24-2006, 06:39 PM
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carb mods done- still not perfect ?????
I just finished my carb rejet- 128 main, stock 35 pilot, drilled slide, N1TC needle on 3rd notch, crankcase vent drilled out, smog system removed and everything capped, air/fuel screw 2.5 turns out from fully seated. I originally had a 40 pilot jet but can't remember where I put it and those are like finding the holy grail. Kawi dealer takes forever and I didn't order it with my other stuff from ronayers because i thought i could find the one i had. So I left the stock 35 in. Put it all back together and it started up perfect.
Riding it for the first time I immediately felt the throttle response was much better. But it seems to be missing something right off idle. It feels very buzzy and hesitant at low rpm's, almost like it isn't getting enough fuel, there is absolutely no popping on decel and no engine braking at all. Do you think I may need the 40 pilot jet to get it more fuel or come down in main jet to 125 or back my air/fuel to 2 turns or move the needle. Sometimes it will die after riding and pulling in the clutch and then need to give it gas when restarting. To be honest, it doesn't feel any more powerful than it did before i rejetted and did the other mods. I have a big gun evoX full, and it feels no more powerful than it did before rejetting.
Also, i think i messed my throttle up when removing and reinstalling. Can anyone give a little tutorial on adjusting throttle slack. That was really irking me off as now i have a lot of play.
I must mention that i also removed my snorkel from the airbox.
Riding it for the first time I immediately felt the throttle response was much better. But it seems to be missing something right off idle. It feels very buzzy and hesitant at low rpm's, almost like it isn't getting enough fuel, there is absolutely no popping on decel and no engine braking at all. Do you think I may need the 40 pilot jet to get it more fuel or come down in main jet to 125 or back my air/fuel to 2 turns or move the needle. Sometimes it will die after riding and pulling in the clutch and then need to give it gas when restarting. To be honest, it doesn't feel any more powerful than it did before i rejetted and did the other mods. I have a big gun evoX full, and it feels no more powerful than it did before rejetting.
Also, i think i messed my throttle up when removing and reinstalling. Can anyone give a little tutorial on adjusting throttle slack. That was really irking me off as now i have a lot of play.
I must mention that i also removed my snorkel from the airbox.
#2
06-24-2006, 08:38 PM
RE: carb mods done- still not perfect ?????
To adjust the throttle slack, move the bars around to find where its the tightest, for me its full lock right. I say to do this as when I had adjusted it with the bars straight the throttle would stick around 2500 when I turned the bars to the right. Take and screw the adjuster on the bars all the way into the throttle pull body. Loosen the top nut, not the throttle sleeve but the nut on it just enough that you can get the lower one to clear the tang on the carb. Keep moving the two nuts down until you get around 2-3 mm of play at the tightest position. I have more than that at center but not alot. Once that is set, tighten them up and check for free throttle action, you may have to adjust the decelerator cable somewhat. Its a bit harder to get to but is the same procedure except there is no adjustment on the throttle pull body. From there you can fine tune it with the top set of adjustments on the bars.
I forget which post it is, but I think it was by bmwhd that described what each jet does as far as where it works in the rpm range, you may just have a funky combination. Just for kicks throw the snorkel back on and take another ride and see where that gets you. If it gets worse you might be too rich.
I forget which post it is, but I think it was by bmwhd that described what each jet does as far as where it works in the rpm range, you may just have a funky combination. Just for kicks throw the snorkel back on and take another ride and see where that gets you. If it gets worse you might be too rich.
#3
06-24-2006, 08:40 PM
RE: carb mods done- still not perfect ?????
I performed all the same mods with the exception of the #128 main jet-I used the 125, and I also used a KDX snorkel, and I'm running the Muzzy. I've had absolutely no runability issues, but I also felt the bike didn't have the power that I was expecting it too have. The other day I put on a UNI air filter, and that made the bike come alive! It made a huge difference in power all around, but especially on top end. I've used aftermarket air filters on all my bikes/quads and never really noticed any power difference, so I really wasn't expecting any this time either. I guess that is what the bike needed to make it happy.
#4
06-25-2006, 01:14 AM
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RE: carb mods done- still not perfect ?????
thanks guys for your replies. this morning i dug my way back to the top of the carb and removed the needle and put it on the 2nd slot from the 3rd. that must have been the trick because now it runs perfect, big difference. i don't know how the needle works or what it does but that did the trick. it will now fly right up to redline and not burp at all on the way down. i think i will buy a uni filter for it though as i have the snorkel off the airbox and that's probably better than the stock filter.
now when i get the front wheel up from a 1st to 2nd shift it will ride it and not just fall flat on its face. now for the 300 kit.
now when i get the front wheel up from a 1st to 2nd shift it will ride it and not just fall flat on its face. now for the 300 kit.
#5
06-25-2006, 01:46 AM
RE: carb mods done- still not perfect ?????
The clip on the needle controls it's depth. Remember that plastic hole the tip is suspended over / in? That's where the fuel passes and the needle allows more in when its raised and cuts off the supply when it is lowered. The lower the needle's starting position, the less fuel gets delivered across the range. So putting the clip on the second ring instead of the third makes the needle sit a little lower, and restricts the fuel a little more so the bike runs a little leaner. You were probably running a bit rich. As konacoiler mentioned, a differerent filter can also help that by allowing more air in. This is that "total system" thing I've mentioned - changing one thing can throw others out of balance. Tuning this stuff to perfection is nothing short of black magic.
BTW, I've got the 300cc kit installed and it fired up on the first crank. I've performed one heat cycle of break-in so far. I've got a few more to go before I start really feeling it out for what it can do.
BTW, I've got the 300cc kit installed and it fired up on the first crank. I've performed one heat cycle of break-in so far. I've got a few more to go before I start really feeling it out for what it can do.
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