No i'm not having carbohydrate intake issues, I'm having carb jet issues!
Real fast bio here. New member and since I canned the ex-wife I've been able to add to the stable 6 motorcycles. The 6th being a 12 KLX. I read these post on all new bikes I purchase as I've come to find out riders know more than the shops when it come s to what works and what doesn't.
So after seeing that MOST not all are going with a 130 main, 40 pilot, FMF, KDX air snorkel etc. I dove right in and started to order parts.
Problem is Dynojet kit doesn't come with a 130 main and they don't sell the 40 pilot. They also do not sell the thumb air screw adjustment needle. I have called around and nothing, tried JD Jetting and they sell nothing for this bike.
So why doesn't ONE shop sell all that we need? Where are you guys (and gals) getting your carb parts?
I need a 40 pilot and thumb screw.
Thanks,

 

I'm not sure they have everything, but I've found most of what I needed at Jets-R-Us.

Jets R Us mikuni, keihin, hitachi, holley, jets and carb parts

 

It is unfortunate that such a "kit" doesn't exist - If it did, it would likely cost well over $100.00 and with low yearly sales numbers..

Kid55, I'm not sure how you came up with your idea for a carb setup but you are not on the right track.. The DJ kits have never included a DJ130 and a #40 pilot should only be used if you're at sea level - i run a 40 because I'm running lidless near sea level..

The "biggy" fuel screw isn't very helpful as it only controls the fueling of a very small area of the bikes' running - idle, decel, and light load with throttle under 1/4... If you ride over great altitude changes, it could give you a better idle with a quick adjustment..

For DJ kits, you'll have to choose which one you want to run - 2152 or 2206.. and use whatever DJ main is appropriate for your mods and altitude..

 

you can also order individual DJ jets (and pilot jets) from local motorsports shops. Price varies by location and "**** you that's why", but I got mine for 5 bucks or something.

 

I have a KLX250 cheap mods link in my signature that actually has all the Kawasaki part numbers to order. The thumb air screw is Kuba or something like that, but KLXter did a cool screw driver that can fit up in there by putting some rubber tube over one of those hex bits from a drill screw driver kit. Lots cheaper and quick to find at a hardware store. A bunch of wraps of duct tape or electric black tape would work in place of the rubber tube. Just make sure you get the small size tip that will fit the screw head.

Here is the "kit" and some instructions mixed in from the document, all parts available from any Kawasaki dealer or possibly from a Kiehin catalog:

• 16009-1912 - $26.32 Kawi Kiehin Needle-Jet, N1TC
• 92037-1401 - $3.45 Kawi Kiehin Clamp, Jet Needle
• 92143-1667 - 3.95 Kawi Kiehin Collar
• Needle clip slot 2 down from the top
• 92063-1069 - $9.70 Kawi Kiehin Main Jet #125 or
• 92063-1074 - $9.80 Kawi Kiehin Main Jet #128
• 92064-1108 - $11.75 Kawi Kiehin pilot jet #40 Air screw at 2 turns out to start
• drill the slide vent to 7/64ths
• 14073-1577 - $33.67 Airbox snorkel high flow unit

Those prices are from Bike Bandit for a total of $88.44 with two mains and the snokel but without shipping. I took those part numbers to my favorite Kawasaki dealer and ordered up the parts since they could do them without shipping, plus I a price break since I buy a bunch of gaskets from them yearly. It would be worth looking at Jets-R-Us too maybe for a better price. Only thing that has to be Kawasaki is the snorkel if you wanted it. Plug and play, less than $100 even with the snorkel if you do some serious off road or don't like the noise from removing the lid.

Dyno Jet kits are cheaper, but I did some serious research before I did jetting. In that research I have yet to see one where those kaw/kiehin parts didn't work well. They were tried and proven in use since around 2007 based on all the threads I ever found In that research it seemed most problems revolved around the Dyno Jet kit. Perhaps the Kaw/Kiehin jetting works well because it was what was used for the KLX300. About the only thing that would change is main jets and maybe a needle setting. Perhaps more problems with Dyno Jet because they may sell more or with number confusion when compared to the Kiehin parts. I don't know. I just took the path that had least issues.

This same information can be found a number of places on the internet, in this forum as well as the Thumper Page and Planet KLX if it is up. I amassed a document and linked it, because there isn't any "sticky" here to deal with carb stuff.

I will also say I added a Thunder Products Dial-A-Jet fuel adder to fill in lean spots on my 09, as did my brother on his 06. The jetting worked well for my brother as he rode the bike with only the jetting, but after installing the the Dial-A-Jet I sent him, the bike ran even smoother in power delivery. He was running a KLX300 pipe, mine is stock, but a header and megaphone will eventually be there. I stayed with the leaner main. The Dial-A-Jet should take care of any leanness after installing the pipe. Used it before in a couple bikes with great results.


There are more tips in the link below, which is a google doc I gave access to after collecting the stuff.

 

Want to thank all for impute.
I'm running at sea level with FMF and power bomb pipe. Have not installed any items yet as I'm missing the pilot jet. I know the thumb screw not that important but when make the initial adjustments it is far easier that getting a screw driver up there. I know different set ups work for some and not others and will continue to use this forum for advise on getting it as close as possible.

 

Klx678
Want to thank you again for your post and info.
Does removing the smog junk play much of a role with the jetting, or if smog stuff left in place does it cause the popping on decel more.

 

Klxster,
Thanks for all your testing and results sharing. I like to ride and not fiddle with my bike so much, that is why I take heart to what others have experienced.
After racing KTM two strokes off-road for 20 years I can use all the power squeeze I can get out her.
Like ya say lots of trial and error but if I can narrow it down then I can spend more time behind the bars

 

No problem.. PM me if you want to run lidless .. I have no dyno charts or data for otherwise..

 

Considering it's simply a diaphragm operating off of the vacuum, which is a sealed system, it should play no part. The diaphragm opens a channel from the air box to the exhaust side of the head just before the pipe. No air is supposed to pas from the intake to the exhaust, if it did you'd have some serious flame-ons, so no jetting alterations should be required.

As for popping on the over-run, I'd think the suction valve would eliminate it since it helps burn any fuel charge in the exhaust that might escape. I didn't bother pulling the pollution stuff since I didn't have the stuff to plug the air box, etc and know it does nothing for performance other than saving maybe a pound or so on the bike. Just wasn't worth the bother at that time. When I install the 36-68 I will have to remove it since there is no vacuum fitting on the carb.