Carb/Idle Problem- AKA I'm not a smart man
#1
Carb/Idle Problem- AKA I'm not a smart man
Hello all. I am an idiot! I decided to make a carb change before a trip...and the bike is no longer running right. Woohoo!
I know there are many carb threads and I've read some of them but everyones running something different, it seems.
The bike ran fine before I messed with it. It only required the choke to be on for a 30 seconds then it would idle on it's own when cold. It did seem a little rich though. I have/had a trip coming up at a lot higher elevation so I was worried if it was rich here, then it would be a lot worse there.
I inquired on ADVrider about my setup. I bought the bike used.
'06
Stock Exhaust
Smog stuff removed
Larger snorkle
3 1" holes drilled into the top of the airbox with those foam inserts.
Kuoba adjustable fuel screw
MAIN DJ 128
NEEDLE DJ, 3rd position from top
PILOT Keihin 40
WestOzKLX suggested I go back to the stock Keihin 35 Keihin Pilot and call it good. I changed the pilot and adjusted the fuel screw to 2 turns out. Now I'm having problems. BTW, I don't blam WestOzKLX.
It starts up but requires the choke to be on for a lot longer than before, which I'm guessing is expected. I then took it for a spin to adjust the fuel screw.
I rode it for about 20 miles to get it nice and hot. First off, the idle won't stay consistent. It wants to fluctuate about 500 or so rpm. Second, if I set it to around 1300 rpm, shortly down the road it's idling at 4-5000 rpm. I'd stop and readjust it then it would climb back up. Also, it's not returning to idle very quickly. I tried adjusting the fuel screw but with the idle fluctuating, it was difficult.
It pulls through the gears fine. It seems to be something with the idle circuit?
I checked for air vacuum leaks. I've had the carb apart twice now double checking everything. I also checked the throttle cables for adjustment/binding. The float level was just a tad low so I brought it back into spec.
Any ideas? Does it sound like I just need to get the idle circuit adjusted properly? I'm running out of ideas.
EDIT: The title should be man, not men. See, I told you I wasn't smart!
I know there are many carb threads and I've read some of them but everyones running something different, it seems.
The bike ran fine before I messed with it. It only required the choke to be on for a 30 seconds then it would idle on it's own when cold. It did seem a little rich though. I have/had a trip coming up at a lot higher elevation so I was worried if it was rich here, then it would be a lot worse there.
I inquired on ADVrider about my setup. I bought the bike used.
'06
Stock Exhaust
Smog stuff removed
Larger snorkle
3 1" holes drilled into the top of the airbox with those foam inserts.
Kuoba adjustable fuel screw
MAIN DJ 128
NEEDLE DJ, 3rd position from top
PILOT Keihin 40
WestOzKLX suggested I go back to the stock Keihin 35 Keihin Pilot and call it good. I changed the pilot and adjusted the fuel screw to 2 turns out. Now I'm having problems. BTW, I don't blam WestOzKLX.
It starts up but requires the choke to be on for a lot longer than before, which I'm guessing is expected. I then took it for a spin to adjust the fuel screw.
I rode it for about 20 miles to get it nice and hot. First off, the idle won't stay consistent. It wants to fluctuate about 500 or so rpm. Second, if I set it to around 1300 rpm, shortly down the road it's idling at 4-5000 rpm. I'd stop and readjust it then it would climb back up. Also, it's not returning to idle very quickly. I tried adjusting the fuel screw but with the idle fluctuating, it was difficult.
It pulls through the gears fine. It seems to be something with the idle circuit?
I checked for air vacuum leaks. I've had the carb apart twice now double checking everything. I also checked the throttle cables for adjustment/binding. The float level was just a tad low so I brought it back into spec.
Any ideas? Does it sound like I just need to get the idle circuit adjusted properly? I'm running out of ideas.
EDIT: The title should be man, not men. See, I told you I wasn't smart!
Last edited by deej; 08-20-2009 at 07:51 PM.
#2
Hey eugene to the forums, someone will be on shortly with some good information and or suggestions. I have only one for ya, get over to the new members area and give us a proper introduction so we can all give you the right welcome. LOL and I'll edit the title for ya. I mean after all with my OCD I was going to change it for ya anyway. hahahahaha
#6
I tried that before and it didn't help. Also, when the 40 pilot was in, the fuel screw was 3 turns out. Theoretically, when I went to the 35 pilot the fuel screw should need to be richer.
I need to follow lcpl0331's suggestion and look for other air leaks. If I can't find anything I think I'm going to go back to the 40 pilot and see how it runs. Obviously, if it still doesn't run right I have other issues.
If the 40 pilot cures the problem, I don't understand why the bikes likes a larger pilot. I've seen where people are running a full aftermarket exhaust and open airbox and they're still using the stock 35 pilot. Not sure how/why my bike would be different. I know some are at higher elevations but I've seen that setup close to sea level, which is where I'm at.
#8
Mine will only fit one direction...
#9
Thanks Slippery. I realized that when I took the carb apart again.
I put the Keihin 40 pilot back in and it seems to run fine. Now I'm confused.
As I asked above, why would it run fine with the 40 and not the 35? I live in Indiana at around 1K feet. I've got the stock exhaust, larger snorkle, 3 1" holes with foam inserts in the airbox lid, and uni filter. Everything else is stock. I've been getting between 45-50 mpg with the 40 pilot.
I put the Keihin 40 pilot back in and it seems to run fine. Now I'm confused.
As I asked above, why would it run fine with the 40 and not the 35? I live in Indiana at around 1K feet. I've got the stock exhaust, larger snorkle, 3 1" holes with foam inserts in the airbox lid, and uni filter. Everything else is stock. I've been getting between 45-50 mpg with the 40 pilot.