carb help!
#21
01-05-2018 | 12:49 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 476
From: Lakeville
1st Gear Member
"the needle" what do you mean the needle.the thing that comes out of the rubber vacuum ? idk what a needle is ...
I took apart my carb and and remember all the parts but I have about 5 people telling me 50 different things at the same time all using technical terms so I can't keep up.
Im not interested in all this extra info, I just need a simple summarized plan :
so 38 ,39 or 40 pilot jet
and a dynojet 2152 kit b/c it has the bigger main and the needle.
and stock fuel screw on stock settings
='s I should have a little better fuel curve and a better warmup/startup ?
what is the stock main and pilot jet sizes?
what does the dyno jet kit main jet size? looks like I need to buy the stage 2 and the stage 1 ... when Im just interested in the stage 1
I took apart my carb and and remember all the parts but I have about 5 people telling me 50 different things at the same time all using technical terms so I can't keep up.
Im not interested in all this extra info, I just need a simple summarized plan :
so 38 ,39 or 40 pilot jet
and a dynojet 2152 kit b/c it has the bigger main and the needle.
and stock fuel screw on stock settings
='s I should have a little better fuel curve and a better warmup/startup ?
what is the stock main and pilot jet sizes?
what does the dyno jet kit main jet size? looks like I need to buy the stage 2 and the stage 1 ... when Im just interested in the stage 1
#22
01-05-2018 | 01:54 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,360
From: So Cal
1st Gear Member
Stock pilot jet is a 35 it is a factory jet, go buy a 38 pilot jet from anyone selling Kawasaki parts
Turn your fuel mixture screw to 2 turns out from when it’s screwed in all the way. Go buy either dynojet kit 2152 or 2206 they both work on this bike.Here’s the instruction sheet from kit 2206 to help if your able to understand what you need to do.
You should probably have someone else do this job for you since your lacking the right tools.
Sears craftsman Phillips screwdriver fits the 4 screws nicely to remove the carb float bowl.
Your asking some very simple questions which shows a lack of needed knowledge on how to complete this job. Which can have unsatisfying results....
You should probably have someone else do this job for you since your lacking the right tools.
Sears craftsman Phillips screwdriver fits the 4 screws nicely to remove the carb float bowl.
Your asking some very simple questions which shows a lack of needed knowledge on how to complete this job. Which can have unsatisfying results....
Last edited by RaceGass; 01-05-2018 at 02:20 AM.
#23
01-05-2018 | 02:40 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,231
From: North Texas
1st Gear Member
I'll put on the forum what I've been telling you on PM.
I understand you are at or very near sea level. You are new to carbs, carb setups, and carb tuning. You have a stock bike that runs just fine - but you want it running a little better..
Given the above, you have only one option. Get a #40 Pilot jet and a DJ 2152 kit. Install the kit as per instructions for Stage 1, install the pilot jet and set the fuel screw to half way between idle drops or just use 2 turns out ( 2 out is usually the sweet spot near sea level)... None of this is "experimental" - it is proven and effective..
I understand you are at or very near sea level. You are new to carbs, carb setups, and carb tuning. You have a stock bike that runs just fine - but you want it running a little better..
Given the above, you have only one option. Get a #40 Pilot jet and a DJ 2152 kit. Install the kit as per instructions for Stage 1, install the pilot jet and set the fuel screw to half way between idle drops or just use 2 turns out ( 2 out is usually the sweet spot near sea level)... None of this is "experimental" - it is proven and effective..
Last edited by Klxster; 01-05-2018 at 02:50 AM.
#24
01-05-2018 | 10:24 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,360
From: So Cal
1st Gear Member
There was a reason to try the 38 pilot first but on the klx I have the fuel mixture screw was out 3.75 turns.
Kouba instructions suggest/warn not to go beyond 2.5 turns out or the fuel screw may back out, possibly losing it. So a 40 pilot was installed and the fuel screw worked well at 2 turns out... No decel back firing or hesitation off idle.
Kouba instructions suggest/warn not to go beyond 2.5 turns out or the fuel screw may back out, possibly losing it. So a 40 pilot was installed and the fuel screw worked well at 2 turns out... No decel back firing or hesitation off idle.
Reasons for the kouba fuel screw? There's not a lot of room to get your hand w a flat blade screw driver tip, and when the engines hot. On the fly adjustments are ultra easy. Can't say that about the screwdriver tip method. Kawasaki oem part #s..... 38 pilot jet p/n 019-511 , N424-25-038, 40 pilot jet p/n 019-512 , N424-25-040
Last edited by RaceGass; 01-05-2018 at 10:32 AM.
#25
01-05-2018 | 12:31 PM
Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 38
From: Northern Europe
1st Gear Member
I used Kawasaki part numbers 92064-1050 for 38 pilot and 92064-1108 for 40 when ordered jets
#26
01-05-2018 | 01:14 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 3,231
From: North Texas
1st Gear Member
The Kouba has a different tip from the stock fuel screw and will have different settings. While the end result is the same regardless of which fuel screw is used, the Kouba setting will be different than the Stocker - for instance, after finding the midway point between idle drops..
As always, Kouba or stock, the fuel screw tunes fueling for idle, decel, and engine operations below 25% butterfly valve opening (throttle).. The fuel screw setting (with the correct pilot jet) does not require "fiddling" - Done correctly once, it is "set it and forget it" ..
The #40 is for near sea level, as it allows a positive finding of midway between idle drops. For altitudes that never go below 2500 ft ASL, the #38 will do the same..
As always, Kouba or stock, the fuel screw tunes fueling for idle, decel, and engine operations below 25% butterfly valve opening (throttle).. The fuel screw setting (with the correct pilot jet) does not require "fiddling" - Done correctly once, it is "set it and forget it" ..
The #40 is for near sea level, as it allows a positive finding of midway between idle drops. For altitudes that never go below 2500 ft ASL, the #38 will do the same..
Last edited by Klxster; 01-05-2018 at 01:25 PM.
#27
01-05-2018 | 04:53 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 143
From: CA
1st Gear Member
I'll put on the forum what I've been telling you on PM.
I understand you are at or very near sea level. You are new to carbs, carb setups, and carb tuning. You have a stock bike that runs just fine - but you want it running a little better..
Given the above, you have only one option. Get a #40 Pilot jet and a DJ 2152 kit. Install the kit as per instructions for Stage 1, install the pilot jet and set the fuel screw to half way between idle drops or just use 2 turns out ( 2 out is usually the sweet spot near sea level)... None of this is "experimental" - it is proven and effective..
I understand you are at or very near sea level. You are new to carbs, carb setups, and carb tuning. You have a stock bike that runs just fine - but you want it running a little better..
Given the above, you have only one option. Get a #40 Pilot jet and a DJ 2152 kit. Install the kit as per instructions for Stage 1, install the pilot jet and set the fuel screw to half way between idle drops or just use 2 turns out ( 2 out is usually the sweet spot near sea level)... None of this is "experimental" - it is proven and effective..
I'm buying the stuff today , also waiting on a 02 sensor to arrive this weekend and I'm going to run it before I do the carb mods.
also you guys are saying to swap to a 38 and 40 pilot ... which ones better for the dyno jet 2152 kit?
are they about the same ?
#28
01-05-2018 | 04:58 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 143
From: CA
1st Gear Member
There was a reason to try the 38 pilot first but on the klx I have the fuel mixture screw was out 3.75 turns.
Kouba instructions suggest/warn not to go beyond 2.5 turns out or the fuel screw may back out, possibly losing it. So a 40 pilot was installed and the fuel screw worked well at 2 turns out... No decel back firing or hesitation off idle.
Kouba instructions suggest/warn not to go beyond 2.5 turns out or the fuel screw may back out, possibly losing it. So a 40 pilot was installed and the fuel screw worked well at 2 turns out... No decel back firing or hesitation off idle.
Reasons for the kouba fuel screw? There's not a lot of room to get your hand w a flat blade screw driver tip, and when the engines hot. On the fly adjustments are ultra easy. Can't say that about the screwdriver tip method. Kawasaki oem part #s..... 38 pilot jet p/n 019-511 , N424-25-038, 40 pilot jet p/n 019-512 , N424-25-040
Ill prob just buy something for the other jet screws.
I might get the kouba screw but.. I've already blew most of my wad on other parts.
so far I got a new air filter, 02 Wideband sensor, and then I got to pay for someone to weld the bung hole, and then the pilot + the dyno + the tool...
#29
01-05-2018 | 06:35 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 143
From: CA
1st Gear Member
I found two places to buy the pilots from I'm not sure which on e to o go with ...
amazon is way cheaper but idk cheapness makes me nervous...
amazon
and jetsrus
https://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_di...50_KLX250S.htm
amazon is way cheaper but idk cheapness makes me nervous...
amazon
and jetsrus
https://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_di...50_KLX250S.htm