I started prepping for some more mods today and tore into a few other areas while I was at it. The major work completed was pulling the carb...if you want to call that major. Whoever thinks that is though needs to come work on an airplane with me...or how about a multi-carb setup crammed into a liter bike...now that's fun! The plan is to get the CVK getted propely for an aftermarket pipe..but only to use as a back-up. I fully intend to have a pumper installed before I ride the bike again...winters are long where I'm at.

While I was working in that area, I decided to shoot some photos of the carb De-ice setup that comes standard on all Japanese KLX's and D-Trackers. Maybe some of the guys who have had problems with icing, like A16Tony, can look at it and get some ideas. I don't understand why Kawi doesn't give this kind of attention to their stateside products; how hard would it be?


This is where the hot water comes from the engine block and goes to one side of a T-fitting(shown later) on the bottom of the carb.



The small split between those two hose clamps one the RH side of the radiator is a T-fitting where another hose hooks to and runs to the opposite side of the carb T-fitting. Sorry, it's on the inner side of the hose, so I couldn't get a good shot of it.



This shows the T-fitting installed in the carb. As you can see, the @#$% T-fitting interferes with the operation of my Kouba fuel screw..scratch that idea!



Here is a pic of the T-fitting removed. It's a simple coupling with 2 O-rings in machined groves. The assembly fits snugly into the smooth bore to the right. It is held in with a clip and retaining screw. The actual T-fitting is spit internally down the vertical shaft to give the coolant a circulating action.



Should I leave the snorkel out?



Should I dare cut-out the backfire screen? The rep at HMF says removing that and the air box lid will produce a 1.5HP gain...hmmmmm!



It was getting dark and kinda cold, so I quit for the night. Will have to look at the carb again because I managed to mess-up the order of the O-ring, washer and spring in the fuel screw. Managed to get the washer back out, but the O-ring and spring are still in the bore. Will tinker around until I can come up with something to un-goober my SNAFU....that's all for now.

 

Tremor, can you give me part #'s. I'm very glad you posted this. Thanks

 

yank that backfire screen!!!!
im pullin mine when i get my parts in a coupla weeks and start my mods.. the only catch i believe as i understand it with removin the screen is its a bad idea to use a foam filter due to fire risk. ill be getting a fabric K&N to compensate for the lack of backfire screen.

 

Green=Available stateside Red=Not available stateside

Carb T-fitting
Fitting: 92005-1290
-Retaining clip: 13270-1063
-Screw: 92009-1704

Clylinder Head Fitting (Nipple)
-Nipple:92005-0051
-Gasket: 11009-1344

Water Filter (attaches between cyl head fitting and carb T-fitting)
-Filter element: 49019-1068
-Body: 16160-1359

Valve (supect a one way check valve). Connects between hose coming from other side of carb T-fitting and water pump hose T-fitting on RH side.
-Valve: 49116-1167
-Damper (shock mount for valve): 92160-1451

Water Pump Hose T-Fitting: 39192-1016


The Nipple fitting coming from the cylinder head doesn't pop-up in the stateside fich, but I noticed there is threaded plug in that hole, so maybe you can find a brass nipple with similar threading as a substitute. T-fitting for the water pump hose is not available stateside either, but you should be able to find something that will work. The T-Fitting for the carb is right in the KLX250S stateside parts fich, so if it's not on your carb already you should be able to get it easily. The retaining clip and screw for the carb T-handle are also available stateside for different Kawi models. I believe one of them came off of a Vulcan. Some the the other stuff like the valve and filter come from either Mules, KFX-700s, Vulcans, etc.


Kawasaki USA part fich
http://www.kawasaki.com/DefaultFrame...OSEVEHICLE.ASP

That should give you a good start. I left out the P/Ns for the clamps and hoses because you should be able to save money by cutting your own hose and getting commonly available hose clamps. The actual routing of the hose goes in this order and pattern: 1. cyinder head fitting 2. Water Filter 3. Carb T-Fitting-input 4. Carb T-fitting output 5. Hose then runs along left side of engine at top of crank case were it hooks to the check valve 6. Continues from check valve around front of engine to T-fitting in water pump hose on RH side of bike.

 

tremor are you american, just in japan, or are you japanese?

 

I'm American. Born and raised in Washington State. Did my last three tours in the Navy in Japan, retired here in 2004 and now work for a defense contractor.

 

ah.. cool... i was wondering why you spoke/wrote such good english...lol
is that language hard to learn?

 

why would they put de icing stuff on japan bikes but not U.S. bikes? it gets cold here too..... wtf....

 

For me it has been slow because most of my learning has been from books, with not enough daily exposure to the language. That, and starting to learn when you're not exactly young anymore slows the process further. My daughter has already left me far behind and I started trying to learn Japanese before she was born.

 

That's what I find so amazing. Evidently it's a known problem, but they choose to ignore the stateside customers. BOOOOOO! Kawasaki!


I do love having no EPA over here though....there was no plug on my fuel screw[sm=bounceybounce.gif]