Can't get TDC AHL 300cc kit install
#1
Can't get TDC AHL 300cc kit install
I'm in the middle of putting an AHL piston and cylinder on my 2009 KLX250s. I'm trying to get the timing set according to the Service Manual.
I am rotating the crank using a 17mm socket and I'm having an issue. I can see the Fire mark through the observation port, but the cylinder seems to blast right past the Timing mark before I can get it lined up with the timing line on the case if I rotate the engine counter-clockwise.
It doesn't matter how slowly I am rotating the engine--the T mark just blows past the line on the case.
If I rotate the engine backwards I can line the Timing marks up with each other.
Any help appreciated. I've never been this far into an engine before and I can see the end of the project (assuming the rings stayed where they are supposed to be during installation) but the timing is fighting back.
I am rotating the crank using a 17mm socket and I'm having an issue. I can see the Fire mark through the observation port, but the cylinder seems to blast right past the Timing mark before I can get it lined up with the timing line on the case if I rotate the engine counter-clockwise.
It doesn't matter how slowly I am rotating the engine--the T mark just blows past the line on the case.
If I rotate the engine backwards I can line the Timing marks up with each other.
Any help appreciated. I've never been this far into an engine before and I can see the end of the project (assuming the rings stayed where they are supposed to be during installation) but the timing is fighting back.
#3
I am rotating counterclockwise. Just before the T line gets in position is when it breaks over like I've gone past TDC.
The only way to get the line to even with the line in the case is to then back the piston up the wrong way.
The sparkplug is out.
Thanks
The only way to get the line to even with the line in the case is to then back the piston up the wrong way.
The sparkplug is out.
Thanks
#6
Sounds like you're using a ratchet, if it can cycle past the mark. Use a breaker bar so that it will only rotate as far as you turn it. With a breaker bar you will control the movement both directions.
I will also say I've never had a problem that way as long as the spark plug is removed and compression can blow out of the plug hole.
I will also say I've never had a problem that way as long as the spark plug is removed and compression can blow out of the plug hole.
#8
Here's where things are at the moment:
Did I finally get this right, or are there issues one of you sees with it?
For the record, I have never been this far into an engine and I'm just learning as I go.
This is a piston and cylinder swap on my '09 250s to an AHL 300cc kit
Intake line is 32 pins from the Exhaust mark
Lobes are facing away from each other
Timing mark is lined up with the line in the case (shot taken at an angle as I didn't have enough hands to hold light and camera.
Did I finally get this right, or are there issues one of you sees with it?
For the record, I have never been this far into an engine and I'm just learning as I go.
This is a piston and cylinder swap on my '09 250s to an AHL 300cc kit
Intake line is 32 pins from the Exhaust mark
Lobes are facing away from each other
Timing mark is lined up with the line in the case (shot taken at an angle as I didn't have enough hands to hold light and camera.
#9
That looks right to me. If it was off any direction by a tooth it would be obvious. If the slack was taken out of the cam chain I think the marks would align per the manual. When you put the cam cap on and the cam chain tensioner in check again, the marks should all be adequately aligned at TDC.
In putting the cam cap back on, do not force the fit. If you break the cap you have to buy a whole new head and cap, not just the cap. The set is align bored for the cams. You should be able to put it back on by hand, maybe tapping on it a bit with the plastic handle of a screwdriver at most. It should fit flush faced with no gap. If there is a gap re-fit the part, do not force it. Do the torquing in two steps and follow the pattern per the manual.
In putting the cam cap back on, do not force the fit. If you break the cap you have to buy a whole new head and cap, not just the cap. The set is align bored for the cams. You should be able to put it back on by hand, maybe tapping on it a bit with the plastic handle of a screwdriver at most. It should fit flush faced with no gap. If there is a gap re-fit the part, do not force it. Do the torquing in two steps and follow the pattern per the manual.
Last edited by klx678; 02-14-2024 at 10:59 AM.
#10
I got the cradle back on, but didn't rotate the engine. I double-checked my valve adjustment measurements and took the cradle back off to replace some shims.
Had to order one, but everything seemed okay when I put it back on.
Great relief as I over-torqued the bolt in position six and had to drill it out to install a threaded insert. Not my best work.
Had to order one, but everything seemed okay when I put it back on.
Great relief as I over-torqued the bolt in position six and had to drill it out to install a threaded insert. Not my best work.
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