Wow, always exciting to have an improved or modified part ready to go back in place.
If your up for it would you take a pic or 2 of in and outlets?

Thanks ...Steve F

P.S if you need sand bags for your front end let us know:-)

 

You want pictures looking on the backside of the valve?

 

Oh...clarify a minute, please. Did Bill do some "flow" work on your head or was this just a valve service deal? I've lost track.

 

I was going to have him port it out but it was 450$ I didnt have the extra cash. So he just did a valve job.

 

Can you safely port the exhaust side on your own with a little bit of hands on know-how, to gain a little better flow? I thought it was just the intake you really do not want to grind on unless you really know what your doing... since you can actually make it worse?

 

What's his shop rate? Just trying to get an idea of how much time he was thinking of a port touch-up taking.

 

Slap happy port grinding can make either side worse. Open the exhaust port up too much (and unevenly etc) and you'll not only screw up the pressure wave characteristics of the entire exhaust system but you'll create a pocket of hot, high pressure gas that slows down gas flow and can cook your valves. Leave a poor finish in the port and it will not only create drag on the flowing gas but pick up carbon, which will build up and slow the gas down even further. If you go REALLY nuts with the burr you can remove all the material that supports the valve guide and the head will be ruined.
On the intake side, too FINE a finish will cause fuel to condense out of the intake charge and give you uneven mixtures. Opening the port up too much can also mess up gas flow and create a stagnant pocket of gas behind the valve that could blow the crap out of your carbie if the bike backfires.
At either end, if metal particles get inside the valve guide, or you burr it up with your grinder, it will be rooted in no time.
Anybody can do bad port work but GOOD port work is very tricky (black magic for the hot-rodders and lots of math for the designers). If you're not prepared to have things go very wrong while you learn, or at least to be very conservative in what you do (cleaning up a few casting dags here and there can help performance with pretty low risk), leave it to the pros.

 

He doesnt do the port work he has another shop that builds race motors do it that is near by him. He mentioned a guy named John. So i do not know, The entire porting was going to be 450$.

 

Got a new camera, so i was taking some pics of it last night whether it helps someone or not.

 

If you wanted to you could clean up the little burr in image 185.jpg but those castings are pretty good already. Short of actually polishing them (which is sloooooooooow) there's not much an amateur can achieve there.