Hmmmm this is interesting. When I had like 2000 miles on my bike I took it to the dealer with a loud tapping. They determined that it was the ACR and replaced the cam under warranty. Although the mechanic said it was a "normal" noise and could have lasted for ever. The second time I took my bike in they replaced the cam chain adjuster again under warranty. Just those 2 repairs alone just about paid for the added 4 year warranty that I bought. Peace of mind was just icing on the cake. My warranty runs out on 11/23/10

 

I haven't had time to work on the bike, but I just ran down and snapped a picture of how I have the timing..

Zee timing... Does it appear to be correct?!




Still clicking...

 

TDC - check
Timing marks on sprockets at correct positions - check
32 cam chain link pins edge to edge - check

 

Ok, so timing's good. And I have a couple other people telling me their KACR never made that clanging noise before.. So I guess it's safe to say I should order a new exhaust cam/KACR and hope for the best?!

 

Nup, I wouldn't do that.
If it worked before you pulled ir apart, I don't think you have a faulty ACR mech.
Have you pulled the head off again?
Pull the cams, pull the head and check everything again.
If we all agree that the click is not normal, whats causing the click?
Its catching or pushing on something.
Is an exhaust valve being held open and that in turn is interfering with the ACR mech?
Something lodged between the valve and the seat maybe?
If course I'm just guessing.
Just bouncing ideas around in my mind.

 

Ok, pulled the cams again and immediately noticed that that exhaust valve bucket over the ACR was popped up.. Well, the spring and the bucket were.. I was able to just lift the springs out by hand.

Looking at the shop manual it appears there's some kind of retainers on the exhaust valve that hold the spring down? I can kinda see two split-half looking things in the spring retainer - is that them?

Also, when looking at that valve stem it appears to have a couple tiny nicks around the edges.

I'm guessing that this is bad. Does this mean the valve is screwed up?

Also, just because I have this luck, when removing the cam cap one of those tiny guide collars dropped off. I'm about 99% sure it fell down into the right side abyss of the motor. 10 mins of magnet fishing revealed nothing. Also can't see anything with a mirror/flashlight.

THis is the most horrible what should have been easy repair I've ever done.

Does anyone want to buy a 351 KLX real cheap? As is, you buy!

FFFFFFF&^*^*#^*&#$^*&@#^$*&@#^$&@#$*@$

ALSO - I just thought about it.. If that valve was dropped and I was cranking the motor - It's pretty certain I did damage to it/the piston, no??

I want to light it on fire.

 

Here's pic of valve stem tip and retainer..

After looking at the picture, it's way more chewed up than it looked





I love how this stupid head gasket job turned into this How the hell did I do this?

So, I'm guessing I should definitely order a new valve. Should probably pull the head before ordering too to see what else I f*&##& up.

 

Looks like the collets came off and let your valve drop. It's a head off job I'm afraid. Not sure if you removed the valves at any time, but when you do it's always prudent to replace the collets with new items along with the valve stem seals. They cost peanuts, and while you have the valves out it's the perfect time. You may get away with just fitting a new valve and having the seat matched/machined (not too expensive) as you never had here fired up. (lucky) You can only do a little damage at 60 prm. "Always look on the bright side.... da dum da dum!"

IMPORTANT. Do not remove the valve while it looks like that. You'll need to remove all the burs on the top to allow it to pass smoothly through the guide. The guide is a reamed-fit and made of soft bronze based material (usually bronze/phosphor.) This WILL cause problems later on if not fixed. Remove all the burs with a small file to ensure a smooth passage of the valve through the guide.

Alternatively entrust the whole job in the hans of a professional, that doesn't mean your dealership BTW.

Sorry to hear it won't be a quick fix.

 

CousinLarry,
I think something may have been stopping the valve moving correctly and that caused the ACR to click, the valve to get damaged etc etc.
Hopefully no cam damage.
I'm not gonna say it again. PULL THE HEAD.
I doubt the piston is damaged to an extent it needs replacing.
The valve almost certainly needs replacing.
Take heed of what WestOz is saying when removing the valve.
Don't damage a valve guide.
FIND THAT COLLAR.
If its floating around the engine, its a time bomb.
Unfortunately this may be a bigger tear down job than just the head.

I feel your pain man.

 

Hey Cous, did you post any 351 install pics? Just wondering if maybe the piston got installed backwards. The piston has form-fit depressions for the valves and if it is installed backwards, that would have the piston hitting the valves when you crank. Install pics would verify the correct direction. Not sure that would cause the damage you are seeing, but it's worth a look anyway.