I've mounted and ridden with this tensioner now, and it was simple enough. Initially the mounting of the tensioner with my fat, Muzzy header was a bit challenging until I figured out how to access the inside allen bolt. I used a 3/8 ratchet with a pair of just right length exensions which made tightening the inside allen easy. The outside allen bolt was easy to get to.

I trimmed the length on the threaded plunger rod which made accessing the acorn nut on the adjuster easier. Due to its proximity to the header pipe, I once again resorted to the 3/8 extensions with a 13mm socket. You still just use the finger tight method to screw in and/or back out the adjuster rod as you listen for the timing chain to rattle...turning in the adjuster until until it just goes silent. Hold the acorn nut with a wrench and then tighten the locknut, and you're good to go.

The tensioner is simple and straightforward. The access to bolting up the tensioner is easy once you identify what extensions or combination of socket and extensions will work. It required a 4mm allen 3/8 socket which is easy to obtain if you don't already have one. The best reason for using the countersunk 4mm mounting bolts is the ease of accessing the lock nut. Even 8mm head bolts will be in the way. Once you bolt up the tensioner body, you're not going to be messing with it anymore, so those 4mm allen bolts are worth the extra trouble of initial installation. And like I said, once I figured out what length extensions were needed, I accessed that hard-to-get-to inside allen bolt with a 3/8 ratchet from under the airbox...a nice straight shot. The reason I use a similar setup of extensions to access the acorn adjusting nut is the heat off the exhaust. The 3/8 extensions extend to the open area under the airbox where you turn the adjuster rod in and out without risk of burning your hand.

 

Wow, up late after our converstion...

The adjuster bolt will be shortened according to TNC's experience if/when these are made. The part is asymmetric so there is a top and bottom as you may note by the high tech Sharpie note - not sure what to do there, maybe some indicator arrow. We are working out the instruction process, as TNC has performed adjustments. Cost is going to be tied to interest, small numbers would push it up higher than the others I've made. As it is the price should be $30 plus USPS Flat Rate Priority shipping, $4.95 in the U.S., $11.45 in Canada, and $13.45 for the rest of the world if a fair number of parts are cut.

I would like to hear from interested riders. You can go to my home page to get to the tensioner site, read about my little project and contact me through there, or email me direct by clicking on my tag and selecting either choice.

The web site is still in an initial stage and isn't quite what we want, but my friend and I haven't been able to get together on it lately, about 80 miles apart and not easy to coordinate times. But the site does kind of tell a bit about how this project happened. To date the parts are in nearly 150 motorcycle engines in 14 countries, including over 30 U.S. states and 4 Canadian provinces.

The most fun is communicating with, actually talking to, and better yet meeting other riders through this project. It's still more about the bikes, riders, and the adventure of fixing something. TNC has even given me some tips on my mountain bike swing arm rebuild. Gotta appreciate that.

 

heres my question, is it lighter than stock?

 

Never bothered weighing either the stock one or this one. When a stock one quits working, weight means nothing.

The key point here is function. It will not increase horsepower over a properly working stock tensioner. Neither tensioner will contribute anything to power, except to keep valve timing correct via elimination of play in the cam drive. When the stock tensioner that sells for about $70 or more goes bad the manual tensioner is a reasonable alternative for less than half the price and requires minimal attention. The one advantage with the manual tensioner is that I know it is right. Even when the chain wears and adjustment is needed, it isn't as bad as a failed tensioner. I will say not all OEM tensioners will fail. There are mechanical reasons for failure that don't exist on all bikes, related to tolerance stacking and tensioner movement requirements.

Back on the weight thing, for maybe a hundred bucks I might be able to cut one out of magnesium, drill some holes around it, and use titanium hardware. but it's not worth it. The one I make now, in the post box with instructions and stickers, weighed less than a pound when on the scales at the post office. I don't remember the exact weight, but according to my ancient semi-trustworthy scales I used for shipping ebay stuff the tensioner w/instructions and stickers in the baggie weighed 4 ounces without the box. [Note: Scales were preloaded to 3 lb before adding the part to be meaured. The scale dial reads in one ounce increments. Is it right? Heck I don't know.]

Besides it's far easier to lose a pound of myself than to be concerned with a few ounces on a cam chain tensioner - that was wisdom imparted to me by my father back when I was drilling holes all over my trials bike to make it a bit lighter. I also broke a drilled out foot peg going off a six foot drop that kind of proved it.

Please take the sarcasm as intended... a bit of fun musing about. It's such a small part on a bike.

 

I am interested, although I have never experienced any problems with mine. I like the idea of not relying on a "auto" adjustment if I can do it myself.

 

I am also interested, count me in when the thing can ship.

 

Ill take one probably two without the countersunk mounting holes. Would pay bit more to have the outboard sholder milled down 4-5mm so I can use the stock style bolts and still access the lock nut.

I looked at TNC's photo and at my bike and it seems I have a lot more clearence on the headder. I have assumed my headder is a muzzy becuase its definatly way fatter than stock but mine has mounts for & a heat guard which I dont see in the photos.
TNC does your muzzy header have a heat guard?

 

The 09 muzzy has the guard mounts

 

MITS...no heat guard on mine. The pipe was purchased no later than '07, so as Red points out if later models had a guard, mine isn't one of those. If Mark is going to use normal bolts with a head, it's going to require more complex machining. I will say this was a concern of mine, but once I figured out an easy way to access that inner bolt, it's not a big deal to use the countersunk allens. Once installed it's pretty much there for the duration.

 

The trigger is close to being pulled. I will contact you guys if/when I do... when is looking more and more probable.

I got some feedback from TNC that it might be questionable if the flange bolts can be used, I will take a look when I get them cut. The cut out for the flange might interfere with the lock nut flange due to the offset of the adjuster bolt. I will have to look. I will say I have no idea what it might add to costs due to having to have it set up and milled, but I will see if there's a way to do it at significantly lower cost than that. Part of the reason for low pricing is innovative cut and finishing. The other part might be foolishness on my part, but what the heck...

Just talked with my raw part supplier on this project. Pricing will be $30.00 plus USPS Flat Rate Priority mail charge for the small flat rate box - presently $4.95 in the U.S., $11.45 for Canada, and $13.45 for the rest of the world.