Man!...getting to the point where you can remove the cam chain is a bit of a hassle. While doing the 300 kit on my '06 KLX with about 10,000 miles on it, I measured the cam chain 20 link measurement and found it close enough to excessive that I felt better about just replacing it. Of course that didn't happen until the side cover was off...then the clutch hub, then the primary gear...ahhhh, home free...well, no...even the oil pump had to be removed. The casting on the oil pump housing is about a mm or two of having enough clearance. Not a big deal actually, but it was just one thing after another to get that bugger off the crank gear.

It's funny how the chain seems to wear, but the rubbing and tensioning blocks don't really show any abuse. The cam gears and crank gear are also in good shape. I had someone more experienced than I to make a close inspection, and they concurred. This cam chain tensioner isn't too impressive. Looking at it, I think making a manual device might be a better deal. I thought I'd seen a post or two where this was mentioned.

 

I think they should put a master link on it. Undo the master link , hook it to the new chain and use the old chain to thread the new one through. Half kidding there, sure would be a mess if the chain had a master link and the keeper came off while running.
Looks like you have it handled.
Dan

 

Funny you mention that. The original Z1 replacement cam chains had a press fit link. Splitting the cases and pulling the crank was only about 20 times more complex on that bike compared to our little scooters.

Dan, do you recall anyone converting the auto tensioner to a manual device?

 

It's not that bad to replace. Just got to dig for it. Mine went out around 2,800 miles before I finally had enough with it at 5k miles. Did all the work, replaced the chain and guides. Now its all quite again with 7,800 miles on the odometer (2,800 miles on new parts).

 

I think i have seen that on KLR's. I'll look. Seems like it could be done pretty easily.
Dan

 

You know...the teeth on the tensioner shaft looked just fine. I even got a magnifying glass and a bright light. There's not even any "shiny" aspect to the area where the tensioner teeth have been running to indicate slipping or some other wear issue. I've read many of the posts about the stock tensioner woes, but it seems like this setup should work just fine...unless the spring is too weak. I know Lear has messed with this about as much as anyone else, but it sounded like he just replaced everything and uses a manual method of insuring tension. Is that right, Lear?

 

I haven't had issues with mine and I don't plan on messing with it. I know I have seen a site where a guy made his own out of the stock kLR tensioner.


http://www.schnitzracingstore.com/ca...showprevnext=1

 

Wow...I'd almost bet KLR Cary developed that thing. He worked for Schnitz Racing. He also developed the 685/705 big bore kit for the KLR. He was a really sharp and nice guy. Got killed in a motorcycle accident. Thanks for that link.

 

i used a small chain breaker to break both chains then used tie wired the new and old together pulled it around pressed the new one together.

 

I really should write up a repair manual on that issue. But yes, I replaced just about everything on the timing chain (tensioner, chain, guides) except the sprokets. And used repair manual methods to properly adjust tension and timing.