C/S sprocket removal
#1
C/S sprocket removal
I was trying to take my C/S sprocket off today and I took the guard and bent the washer back that was tucked in front of the large nut.
I had my rattle gun and still could not remove this sucker. Is there anything else locking it in like an allen key or cotter pin that I am missing or is this thing just that tough to get off? I was using a 27mm socket and that seemed to be the size of the nut. Any tips, pointers?
I had my rattle gun and still could not remove this sucker. Is there anything else locking it in like an allen key or cotter pin that I am missing or is this thing just that tough to get off? I was using a 27mm socket and that seemed to be the size of the nut. Any tips, pointers?
Last edited by PSUdude85; 02-26-2011 at 09:06 PM.
#3
I may just have to do that. The threads are standard threads (righty tightly lefty loosey) right? Just wanted to make sure I wasn't tightening it more LOL
I may put some PB blaster on there since there was a lot of mud and gunk around it when I took the bracket off.
I may put some PB blaster on there since there was a lot of mud and gunk around it when I took the bracket off.
#4
Yes, standard threads, shouldn't need PB. Try getting it in 3rd or 4th gear on the ground, and have a buddy on the bike standing on the rear brake, then use a breaker bar to loosen the nut.
#5
Rattle gun worked the best for me. I still took a few tries. Make certain that the washer is flattened wel, all around. I put anti-sieze on my threads once I got the nut off, and have had an easier time with it since.
#7
Once you have the countershaft nut off, you do not need to tighten it up more than snug. As long as the washer is bent over after installation. I tighten mine with my fingers. I don't understand why the factory cranks it on there.
#9
I use a breaker bar with a pipe over the end for really stubborn c/s/ nuts. I also put a bar through the rear wheel to 'lock' it against the swingarm. Good idea to strap the front brake lever to the bar too.
Manufacturers have been known to use red threadlocker on these nuts. Heat helps break that bond.
Manufacturers have been known to use red threadlocker on these nuts. Heat helps break that bond.
#10
Don't be over-reliant on that peened over locking washer. I have a buddy who's had one come undone twice. Bigger bike and he likes to wheelie, but still, blue threadlocker won't hurt.