All I remember was splicing in or replacing the ground to I think the regulator, making it significantly shorter. Apparently there was some possible electrical issue due to the length and size of wire that could cause a surging effect at speed. I spliced in a second wire to essentially double wire size, increasing electron flow for the ground, just because. I did have a surge, but it was due to jetting.

 

The "new" series KLR650 had a harness issue the first year.

 

Stock jetting was stupid lean due to emissions standards - fixed. The stock cam chain tensioner can fail allowing excessive play and wear on the cam drive so the solution for a permanent fix is a manual tensioner (I problably made the part on your bike and have one on mine, I don't think anyone is making one besides me) - fixed. And lastly the shift star could break I guess - fixed. I need to check mine. So those were the three possible issues.

There was a fourth possible issue, just pointed out, due to the ground wire I think on the voltage regulator that could possibly cause surging at speed for some reason. I'm not an electronics person so I don't have a clue. I just did it when I was dealing with surging at 6000 rpm, an essentially free fix so I did it... but it wasn't the problem. I broke down and bought the KLX300 jet needle, which solved the issue.

 

Does anyone know where I can get a blue seat cover?

 

Ok, cool, now I understand. Makes sense. So, how much of a difference does this cam timing mod make? I guess I shoud call PO to see if that was done as well. Seams like he did everything else, so he may have done it already. I do know he's not a forum guy, not any bike forums, so who knows. I'll ask him this week, just to be sure.

 

I asked this on another thread a few days ago with no replies, so I'm going to ask here since you guys are replying pretty quick. I'm 52, and pretty beat up from a lifetime of racing, etc. I'm on the short side, plus have had 2 failed back surgeries that also effect my right leg. That being said, I have a VERY hard time throwing my leg over the rear fender and seat while getting on the bike. So, I want to order a lowering link in the next day or so. So I'm wondering what one to get, since there are a few out there. And, will this change my suspension preload and damping settings? Or will they remain the same with just a lower seat height? The maker's say no, it doesn't change anything but height. There is the Devol 1", and Devol 1.75". Also the adjustable turnbuckle ones from 0" to 4" lower. Here are the ones I have saved on my Amazon Wish List.

1" Devol
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007S13NM6..._dRDFvbF98XFHQ

1 1/3" Devol
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007S13OFC..._iQDFvbB3JA64M

0" to 4" Adjustable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IN6WWTA..._RYDFvbZYPBYDX

I really need to order one ASAP. I do plan to call the company before buying and ask them. But they may say anything to sell their product. I'm wondering if anyone knows first hand from having one, or knowing someone that does.

Again, Thanks for any info you can give. I do know to lower front as well. I did this on my Ducati, but only 1" drop, and the suspension wasn't noticable on a street bike.

 

I bought one of those 1 inch lowering links
worked fine
was also able to slide up the forks to lower the front 1 inch too

not sure which brand out there but they were the solid aluminum looking ones


later took them off because I swapped to sm wheels which lowered it alot

 

Cool, Thanks. Did it lower it exactly 1" like it said? Little less, little more? Still torn on what ones to get. I guess I can't go wrong with the adjustable ones, just incase. Why not, right?

 

well its kind of hard to measure
because when its lower the kickstand it too long
which makes it sit sort of taller until the stand folds up, even how it is now with my sf wheels

and I didnt feel like trying to measure it, because the suspension is so soft really need someone else to help hold it the same exact way

but you could definitely feel it lower when sitting

and for me, 1 inch was just enough
I was bottoming out on large dips so I had to stiffen the rear shock up some

I would think you go anymore then 1 inch the tire could hit under the fender
unless you really stiffen the bike, but too stiff then you get a crappy ride

plus the max the front goes down is 1 inch unless you modify the springs inside
so you dont want 3 inches in the rear and 1 up front with the headlight facing up too high



im willing to sell mine for $45 shipped if your interested
never going to use them again

 

YOu can make a set for the cost of some flat stock steel, a drill bit of the proper size, and some paint. I'm thinking the steel should be 1-1/4" wide, but check. 1/4" thick mild steel will work fine, all the major force is tension and that is no problem. If you wanted to get trick you could get some aluminum, but you better know what alloy to buy. Too soft and the material will tear. I'm thinking it would have to be some 7000 series relatively hard stuff - I'd do mild steel, put a sticker on it to look trick...

Put the bike on a jack, loosen link fasteners so you're ready to disassemble. raise/lower the jack to where the wheels just touch, remove the links, lower the bike as much as you want (up to 2", any lower might bottom out in the fenderJ), measure from bolt hole to bolt hole - that is the length you need to space the holes in your links. Cut, drill, round ends, paint, and mount the links.

They may not look as trick, but if you don't like what you did you can always make a shorter/longer set. Just be wary of hitting the fender/inner fender if you go more than 2" lower. My brother lowered his bike this way, then found he didn't like it lowered, putting the original links back on only out the cost of his flat steel and maybe the drill.

If you can weld or had help from someone who can, you could make turnbuckle links with a good turnbuckle and several flat large diameter fender washers.

Now in reality once you find where you want the height, if you can do so you can put a travel limiting spacer in the shock with the original links reinstalled, which is the way flat trackers lower their bikes (they will also put spacers in teh forks). The suspension will not hit the fender, the travel is shortened on extension, not compression.

As for the cam timing mod, I didn't do much riding before I did it, but it does seem to have some better mid range, which I know is what I will need for off roading. It is a freebie so worst case scenario you put it back stock. I disabled the compression release, but next time I have the exhaust cam out I will have the mechanism pressed out. It isn't needed on the electric start 250. Neither the Yamaha nor the Honda bothered with compression releases. It's a hold over from the kick start only (early)250/300s.

Hope this helps