Should work, but needs the later model disc rotor and probably should use your sprocket. The only thing that may be different would be the rotor and sprocket size holes. I checked Kawasaki Parts list and found for the rotor the same number 92150-1811 an 8X15mm bolt was used by virtually every KLX, same with the sprocket, number 92150-1978, 8X28 bolt. I looked at the 2014 KLX and when clicking on the part number in the list it will bring up the part and a list of all that it fits. For the brake click here. For the sprocket click here.

If you want to look up everything to be sure about bearings and such you could look it all up on the Partzilla site in OEM parts. Hover over the "shop by brand" down the list and click on Kawasaki, click on motorcycle, click on year, and click on model to get to the parts lists and schematics. Great site.

 

Hi mate, thanks for the reply and info, I'm an absolute novice regarding bikes.
So I called the Kawasaki dealer and he said that a 2007 is interchangeable to a 2014. But then the largest 2 wheel wrecker in our capitalcity said that the hub for the axle or whatever is different?And that it won't fit.
Said from 2009 on is okay.
It's just all so confusing. What makes it hard is that in live 3500klms from our capital city, and have no chance of getting a wheel elswere.
Kawasaki said $600 for a OEM rim (then I have been to get my hub out and find someone to lace it, or $1100 for complete wheel set.😣
I would like second hand or even after market but need to know 100% that I'm getting the right one. Can't see any after market in eBay either?

 

That may be true with the front hub, which has electronic speedo drive vs mechanical.

There is something different in the hub and center spacer, but the wheel bearings are identical parts, Kawasaki 92045-1239 BEARING-BALL,6004X8JRLLX2/3A rear ball bearings.

Based on what I see and read, the only thing that can vary would be the spacing, which may require shimming, but the wheel would still work. I'm thinking it should work, but...

The other thing is you buy the old 250/300 wheel you now have a rim that can be laced to your hub if it is different and won't bolt in. The spoke count and rim size is correct. So worst case you find the wheel doesn't bolt in, you unlace the wheel, take the rim and lace it to your original hub. If you can't do it, check with some bike shops in your area, maybe even a bicycle shop. Someone can lace the wheel. Taking it apart and reassembling if you follow the tip below is no big deal, it is the proper aligning of the rim (truing) and the proper spoke tension.

The trick is to either zip tie or wire the spokes together at the cross furthest out toward the rim to hold them in place when removing the old rim and installing the new one. Get the right size wrench (something like a 6mm, but you'll know, it has to fit right) and take off the nipples. Work the old rim off and the new one on with the stem in the same position. Put the nipples back on and have it trued up. If you aren't sure about truing the rim, leave the nipples loose and have a local shop do it. You've done the grunt work.

Worst case you will buy the used wheel and pay to have someone lace it up to your hub. Has to be less costly than buying all the new stuff.

I forget what size the rim is, but if it is 18-2.15 here is a decent price for a Tusk rim click