broken camshaft cap bolt

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  #11  
Old 02-16-2013 | 04:05 AM
DYNOBOB's Avatar
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He shattered around one bolt hole of the cam cap. I'd do whatever I could to repair.

I suspect the cap bores are machined at same time as head and that's why they're not sold separately.


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Last edited by DYNOBOB; 02-16-2013 at 04:21 AM.
  #12  
Old 02-16-2013 | 04:25 AM
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I agree that you cannot replace the cap, just leave the valve cover bolt out, silicone the hole.

I don't remember any valve cover bolt attaching to the cam cap, that would be weird.

edit: Ok I looked at the pictures I had of my tear down, I would just still just leave that bolt out and give it a go.
 

Last edited by durielk; 02-16-2013 at 04:33 AM.
  #13  
Old 02-16-2013 | 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by DYNOBOB
He shattered around one bolt hole of the cam cap. I'd do whatever I could to repair.

I suspect the cap bores are machined at same time as head and that's why they're not sold separately.


.
Yep, caps and head are line bored as a unit. However, believe it or not, I've seen or at least heard of guys using a cap from another engine on a KLR or two over the years, and they got it to work. I remember some guy finding a KLR junkyard and going through some cam caps and plastiguaging the donors until he found something close. I think I'd search for a used engine before doing that.
 
  #14  
Old 02-16-2013 | 03:21 PM
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It may be possible for someone to take your head with the cap in place and rebuild that small area through machining and rebuilding by heliarcing and rethreading. I am supposing this as I have never seen the cover hole on the cam caps and don't know for sure the danger of the heating to other close components. I cracked a cam cap on my z1 when I was a kid while putting the cams back in. Pit Stop in Central Fl (I'll call it welding) welded the crack almost fully across the top diagonally (Franken cap scar) on the 4 bolt the cap all same reasons caps and head bored as a unit. I was freaked especially when came time to unbolt and rebolt again but it never missed a lick. The z1 had babbit bearings in the head and caps with a low psi high volume oil system. I imagine these bikes are non babbit.

Hang in there

Steve
 
  #15  
Old 02-17-2013 | 12:08 PM
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Default Got a Tig weld repair

I took the camshaft cap to a local aluminum welder here in Rockville, Maryland and he place a welded of material on the cap. Then to a friend who is a retired mechanic and we measured and drilled threading into the new weld material. Placed helicoils into a three threads on the camshaft. I bolted it all together and will test for a leak when I get a new gasket and head bolt washers.
I have lots of cell phone picture and will atempt to load then into this site, as a picture is worth........(you know)
 
  #16  
Old 04-01-2013 | 03:35 AM
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WOW! That cam cap is a plain bearing and it's clearance and shape are pretty critical to having the correct oil pressure and volume the cam bearing surface MUST HAVE!
 
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