Did you happen to see the first head gasket I received on the 351 build? It doesn't look like that's where yours blew, but this type of imperfection may have existed under the metal ring.

 

Mine looked a bit scabby (sort of fuzzy)in some of the the water jacket port areas when I got mine as well. I was able to clean it up but it looks like there is a bit of a quality issue there on some of the gaskets.

 

Yeah I did see that one, that is a possibility. I torqued the head up properly and can't think of any reason why it would blow through like that other than a dodgy gasket.

 

OOOps! I'm sure you torqued the head down in sequence, ran a few heat cycles, then re-torqued it down in sequence again?

Did you get out on the trails with Bully et al yet? It's funny watching them crash everywhere. Was choice seeing Bully follow you on his GS when the trails got rough. PS. Don't follow too close to Jay, he WILL fall off. Haha.

 

Before you put it back together, I would take a really close look at the head & the block to make sure neither is warped or nicked where the gasket mates up.

I didn't retorque my heads, no problems yet. This is the first place I ever heard of retorquing heads, maybe it has something to do with the alum casing? I inched them up in increments so there was no big jump in torque from one bolt to the next.

 

Do tell more about this. A couple mechanic friends said I should check about re-torque. The manual doesn't spec it, and I couldn't find anyone else on here that said to. Required? Or just good practice? I'm seating rings soon, so now is the time to know.

 

I don't know...I don't think a retorque is necessary on this engine or on most engines. I've built and rebuilt engines over many years and have never retorqued cylinder heads and have never had a problem after the fact...car, truck, or motorcycle engines. How many engines are built and/or rebuilt on a daily basis in shops all over the world and never come back in for a retorque...and never have a problem. I'm not saying there isn't an application in some cases where this is somewhat of a necessity, but I don't think it's common.

 

I prefer to check and re-torque after the heat cycles on break in. I do that on all of my engines and pumps. For a quick proof to this, I checked in my 05 KLX400 and DRZ 400E manual of re-torquing the head bolts prior to a compression check. pg 2-27 periodic maintenance. The same is mentioned in my 76 KE 250 engine maintenance section. Pg 126

I do not have a KLX 250 manual so cannot provide any recommendations or proof for that ride. However, I would verify and re-torque after the heat cycles anyways. Besides, after seeing what new gaskets look like from the pictures above.....The engine needs all the help it can get for a long and leak free life.

edit: I also prefer using the permatex copper spray to line the new gaskets on assembly for better sealing and heat transfer.

bummer on the blown gskt lockie666

 

I didn't re torque after a few heat cycles, although it only started leaking after a few runs, I'm pretty sure it's just to do with a faulty gasket, trying to get hold of bill can be hard at times

 

I definitely used a generous amount of copper head gasket goo on my rebuild, but did not retorque..... yet.