Blinker Capacitor

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  #11  
Old 08-07-2013 | 05:44 PM
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You need to create a LOAD, and the diode is not a load. It's likely that you need to wire it across the Pos / Neg wires, which would put it in parallel with the LED.

Unless it's already protected with a resistor in series with the LED, you *CAN* fry the diode (LED) if you wire it in backwards. Diodes *DO* have a pos and a neg. Resistors don't.

As IDRIDR noted; if you have a multi-meter, you can measure (resistance, or OHMS) across the original lamp, and across the resistor. For the lights to blink at the original rate, the two measurements should be pretty close to the same.
 

Last edited by rgoers; 08-07-2013 at 05:49 PM.
  #12  
Old 08-08-2013 | 02:11 AM
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In my research the bulb changes resistance when it is powered. Technically, the led is a load, although a small one. Thats watt the resistor is for...

Watt, say what?

Take a look here...

http://www.etrailer.com/question-35672.html
 

Last edited by drm; 08-08-2013 at 02:16 AM.
  #13  
Old 08-08-2013 | 05:04 AM
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So what's the point of running LEDs? I still have all my 2009 bulbs (5 years old). You're not saving any wattage when you parallel resistors in. So why bother?
 
  #14  
Old 08-08-2013 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Lotrat
So what's the point of running LEDs? I still have all my 2009 bulbs (5 years old). You're not saving any wattage when you parallel resistors in. So why bother?
Looks.

If you want to save wattage, you'll need a different signal control unit design for the low LED draw. And, signals are on only infrequently so how much energy can really be saved?
 
  #15  
Old 08-08-2013 | 05:45 PM
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Seems like a lot of work for turn signal beautification. The again mine are held together with electrical tape and epoxy. Gonna have to scavenge parts from my pile of broken signals to make um pretty.
 
  #16  
Old 08-08-2013 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by rgoers
You need to create a LOAD, and the diode is not a load. It's likely that you need to wire it across the Pos / Neg wires, which would put it in parallel with the LED.
Unless it's already protected with a resistor in series with the LED, you *CAN* fry the diode (LED) if you wire it in backwards. Diodes *DO* have a pos and a neg. Resistors don't.

As IDRIDR noted; if you have a multi-meter, you can measure (resistance, or OHMS) across the original lamp, and across the resistor. For the lights to blink at the original rate, the two measurements should be pretty close to the same.
Parallel will "Decrease" the load. To slow down the flashing rate you need to increase the load by putting the resistor in series.

Series and parallel circuits - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
  #17  
Old 08-08-2013 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Lotrat
Seems like a lot of work for turn signal beautification. The again mine are held together with electrical tape and epoxy. Gonna have to scavenge parts from my pile of broken signals to make um pretty.
I suppose some of the LED units may also be brighter and may have better bulb longevity.

My stock signals were replaced long, long ago with more off-road capable units.

But ya, some of us want shiny, cool looking rides. Others of us like to bounce our KLXs off rocks and are proud of battle scars.
 
  #18  
Old 08-09-2013 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cmott426
Parallel will "Decrease" the load. To slow down the flashing rate you need to increase the load by putting the resistor in series.

Series and parallel circuits - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
That's the problem with wiki... it assumes you have enough knowledge to understand the limitations and context of the content.

Yes, 2 RESISTIVE loads in parallel do in fact decrease the load. For instance, two 100 ohm resistors in parallel will read 50 ohms. However, a DIODE (which is what an LED is) is a semi-conductor. It is certainly not a resistor! Therefore, in this case, the little wiki tid-bit regarding resistive loads is null and void.

So, I will stake my 40+ years of electronic experience on the fact that you need to put the resistor in parallel with the diode.

If you need proof beyond what I say, here's a link that I found that might better explain the hookup. It has pictures...
 

Last edited by rgoers; 08-09-2013 at 11:47 PM.
  #19  
Old 08-10-2013 | 04:19 AM
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Just cut the positive wire going to the bulb, and wire in a resistor, one end of resistor to each of the cut wire ends.
marc
 
  #20  
Old 08-27-2013 | 09:29 PM
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Wsc7050, did you get them installed?
 


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