Replaced the chain on the TRX450R today. I had swapped the sprockets on it a couple of months back, dropping 1 tooth up front and adding 2 in the back to make it more trail friendly. The stock chain fit just fine after the re-gear, out just a little past the mid-point of its adjustment range. Figured I was good to go.

A few weeks ago I did some riding on it for the first time since re-gearing, and noticed afterwards that my chain was really loose. Got to inspecting it, and it was totally shot. Visible cracks in some of the links, obvious stretching.

So today I put a new chain on it. Picked up a 520x114 DID o-ring chain, and proceeded to cut it to the stock length of 94 links, and mounted it up. Ended up having to adjust the sprocket as far in as it would go, and at that setting, the chain is just a hair tighter than I would prefer. Probably okay, because the chain needs to break in a bit, and then it will probably be perfect.

So... 2 take-aways from this experience:

1. If you've re-geared, check before you cut the chain. I got lucky, it just barely fit. Probably should have gone a link longer than stock, it is a lot easier to fix too long than too short.
   
2. When you're replacing the sprockets, just go ahead and replace the chain too, unless it is very new. It probably won't last long on those new sprockets anyway.

At least the worn out chain does not appear to have done any damage to my nice new sprockets...

This was my first time replacing a chain that has a master link. On the 450R, this made it so much easier, since otherwise you have to remove the swing-arm to get the chain off. I found that you can get the master link on using a C-clamp to squeeze it together. I used a small socket to space the C-clamp out from the pins. I tried first using needle nose pliers, and couldn't get the o-rings to seat properly onto the pins, but with the even pressure provided by the C-clamp, they popped right on there.

And my new favorite tool is my angle grinder... sure made short work of removing the old chain and shortening the new one!

 

[QUOTE=
This was my first time replacing a chain that has a master link. On the 450R, this made it so much easier, since otherwise you have to remove the swing-arm to get the chain off. I found that you can get the master link on using a C-clamp to squeeze it together. I used a small socket to space the C-clamp out from the pins. I tried first using needle nose pliers, and couldn't get the o-rings to seat properly onto the pins, but with the even pressure provided by the C-clamp, they popped right on there.

And my new favorite tool is my angle grinder... sure made short work of removing the old chain and shortening the new one![/QUOTE]

I am pretty new to motorcycles but don't they make a chain tool like bicycles to press pins in and out?

 

I tell ya, Bill, I've gotten so paranoid about chain link number and tension length, that I install a new chain with the linkage unbolted so that I can put the countershaft, swingarm pivot, and axle all in line. I'm not running stock gearing, and I don't trust the math of adding lengths by calculation. With all 3 major points inline, you lay the chain in place and make sure there is some slack at this tightest point. I like the tire as far forward as reasonably possible to affect handling influence. It's a horrible sinking feeling when you install a cut chain and go...DOH!

On master links and press-style master links, I've used plain old master links all my life. I can't begin to estimate how many chains I've installed. I've never had a link fail or the clip come off. I never reuse one of these master links, and I never remove my chain or pop it open until it's worn out. Nothing wrong with press or staked style master links at all. I just never have an issue with clip style. I will admit that they are a little tough to connect with an o-ring setup. I use a tiny c-clamp I got from Harbor Freight that I modified to work with clamping the clip style master link and o-rings.

 

TNC, I had that sinking feeling at first today. I thought I had the axle as far forward as it would go, and the chain was too tight to get the master link on. I then realized I had a little more adjustment left, and got it all the way forward. At that point, I could get the link on, and the chain has almost an inch of up and down movement. A little less than ideal, but I'm sure it will break in and loosen up a bit.

This was a clip on master link. The c-clamp worked great to compress everything together and get the clip on.

Stephen, the non-master links are riveted in, and the easiest way to cut a chain to shorten it is to just grind the head off of the two pins on the link you are removing. Took about 30 seconds with the grinder, and 5 seconds with a screwdriver to pop off the link afterwards. Since that link is coming off, you don't even have to be very careful with the grinder.