I'm running stock gearing.


Ok, here's my numbers on two separate runs.

Both rides were 65 to 75% dirt roads, at all speeds including runs up to 55 mph in 6th gear.
And the other 25 to 35% on the highway @ 60-65 mph, in only 6th gear.

106.0 mile ride: 59.55 mpg temp. avg. 45F
51.6 mile ride: 61.94 mpg temp. avg. 60F

 

Nice numbers, don't really see a need to upgrade the tank with those. Anyone want to buy an IMS tank? lol.

 

I've had the Clarke for about a year, that's 2.6 gallons, plus the aluminum 2nd tank I'm developing now, that'll be another gallon, maybe 1.2, so that'll be maybe 3.8 gallons, so it'll have a range of 231 miles...nice

 

So you've been running the 350 for a while. How much of a seat of the pants improvement is it over the stock 250? Mainly what I'm wondering is will it loft the front up over things in any gear other than first without clutch work? Currently my bike will only loft up in 1st unless I bang the clutch in second. That's my only complaint really with the bike - when a nice log shows up in the path and you have to slow down if you wnt to loft the wheel up.

Does the 350 kit give it the power to make it pray to the sun god?

How long did the install take, and did you need any specialty tools?

 

Thanks Bake, looks like I will be making a phone call tomorrow...

 

This might answer you question, its from pg 5.

 

Well, I just sent out a money order for my kit.. I guess I'll start with the swap sometime next week hopefully..

Bake - any words of advice? I've never torn into a thumper motor before.

 

I don't know about the wheelie anytime you want, with just throttle. For that, you're going to need the 13t c.s. sprocket in my opinion.


You need the manual for the torque numbers on the bolts, at least.
Tips?
1. Tie a nice long piece of wire to your cam chain. Wire it up out of the way. Something so long there's no possible way to not be able to drag the chain back out of the crankcase if by some really bad mistake it falls in.
2. Make double sure you get your cam sprockets' timing right on reassembly. Take pictures before you work on them so you can check yourself before you go any further if you're unsure of what you're getting into with that.
3. The cam bridge that bolts down the cams has the bolts numbered in the order you tighten them, and then do it in 2 stages. Make sure you follow that sequence and get the torque on the bolts correct. Criss cross pattern on the headbolts the same way, in stages.

There's reason to go slow and get it right. Remember you're breaking in a new upper end, so easy on the throttle. Everyone has their own technique on that, here's what I do: I started mine the first time and just let it warm up at idle and get completely warmed up, then let it totally cool off to a cold engine, start it again and let it idle again until hot. Start with a cold engine again, and you're ready to ride. These are called "heat cycles."
Not past 4k rpm for 30 minutes riding, start again with a cold engine, then not above 5k for awhile, gradually working up to 6k at 60-100 miles. Change oil and filter at 100 miles.

 

+1 on taking your time. Those bolts are different lenghts, so be sure to get them back into the right holes. Drawing a pattern on cardboard and poking them throught he holes is one way...it just saves some trail and error when you put it back together.

The manual recommends removing the radiator. You can get by without doing that, but it puts you at risk of poking a hole in the radiator core due to the close quarters. I've seen that happen quite a bit among the DIY crowd. I prefer to have some working space and the rad isn't that tough to remove and replace. Your water needs to be drained anyhow.

Try not to keep the RPM at any steady state during break-in, but take care not to use super abrupt opening and closing of the throttle (I.E snapping it from closed to WOT, then back again). This will avoid piston slap until things loosen up.

Regardless of mileage, working your way past 6K in about three heat cycles is doable, so long as you are not snapping the throttle...nice, smooth accel/decel is the key during break-in.

I'd normally recommend the full-blown mototune method, but we're dealing with a sleeve, so I suppose leaning toward more traditional means is pertinent.

 

Thanks for the tips guys, mucho appreciated..

Which manual do you recommend? And I guess I need to go get a small torque wrench as the only one I have is a half inch drive 3ft bar

I'll run to Sears over the weekend.

Man, that's going to take some willpower to break it in properly! I will be good though, it will all be worth it.