Bike sometimes dies when braking from high speed? Bad petcock?
#1
Bike sometimes dies/stalls when braking from high speed..??
First of all, my '09 KLX250s runs perfectly 99.5% of the time. Dynojet kit, clean carb, exhaust & airbox mod... idles fine/smooth, accelerates great, cold start/choke is perfect... super happy with it.
BUT the other 0.5% no so much. Sometimes when cruising along and then closing the throttle from 55-65ish mph, and braking/coasting for a turn, it will just die/stall after a second or two into coasting. Only in 6th gear, only when cruising at 60ish for a minute or longer, and then rapidly closing the throttle and beginning to brake. It starts right back up and runs fine ( I usually wait to make the turn first). No other issues... none. Only does it sometimes?? Thoughts? I have turned my idle up to about 1800 rpm (I like a high idle for trails/less stalling - no issues with that).
I've tried running in gears 1-5 up to 8k rpms for 30 seconds or so and closing the throttle/braking ,and it won't do it then. Only after cruising at 60/6th and quickly slowing to turn.
I do have an inline "L" shaped (clear plastic) fuel filter/strainer between the petcock and carb. I do notice sometimes when I turn the fuel on I see bubbles in the filter as fuel enters - seems normal. And this evening after a long ride I turned off the fuel, took off my gear, and when I looked at the filter it didn't look like much fuel was in it so I turned the fuel/petcock back on. It didn't look to me like the fuel was quick to fill/flow into the filter and to the carb (mostly full tank). I haven't taken a petcock apart in a long time. Is there anything in our petcocks than can break/damage to keep fuel from flowing as freely as it should?
All I can figure in the stalling issue is maybe inertia slowing/starving fuel flow when decelerating quickly? Any and all thought and comments are appreciated!
BUT the other 0.5% no so much. Sometimes when cruising along and then closing the throttle from 55-65ish mph, and braking/coasting for a turn, it will just die/stall after a second or two into coasting. Only in 6th gear, only when cruising at 60ish for a minute or longer, and then rapidly closing the throttle and beginning to brake. It starts right back up and runs fine ( I usually wait to make the turn first). No other issues... none. Only does it sometimes?? Thoughts? I have turned my idle up to about 1800 rpm (I like a high idle for trails/less stalling - no issues with that).
I've tried running in gears 1-5 up to 8k rpms for 30 seconds or so and closing the throttle/braking ,and it won't do it then. Only after cruising at 60/6th and quickly slowing to turn.
I do have an inline "L" shaped (clear plastic) fuel filter/strainer between the petcock and carb. I do notice sometimes when I turn the fuel on I see bubbles in the filter as fuel enters - seems normal. And this evening after a long ride I turned off the fuel, took off my gear, and when I looked at the filter it didn't look like much fuel was in it so I turned the fuel/petcock back on. It didn't look to me like the fuel was quick to fill/flow into the filter and to the carb (mostly full tank). I haven't taken a petcock apart in a long time. Is there anything in our petcocks than can break/damage to keep fuel from flowing as freely as it should?
All I can figure in the stalling issue is maybe inertia slowing/starving fuel flow when decelerating quickly? Any and all thought and comments are appreciated!
Last edited by RECON250s; 02-24-2024 at 01:00 PM.
#3
I would think that if there is a restriction, it would be most noticeable under prolonged heavy load. That's going to require the highest flow rate.
Sounds like a 'flame-out' where it goes lean under that condition-I'd double check the float level and adjust the idle mixture.
Sounds like a 'flame-out' where it goes lean under that condition-I'd double check the float level and adjust the idle mixture.
#4
I would think that if there is a restriction, it would be most noticeable under prolonged heavy load. That's going to require the highest flow rate.
Sounds like a 'flame-out' where it goes lean under that condition-I'd double check the float level and adjust the idle mixture.
Sounds like a 'flame-out' where it goes lean under that condition-I'd double check the float level and adjust the idle mixture.
Last edited by RECON250s; 02-24-2024 at 07:42 PM.
#6
Thanks Bob.... may be. But when i installed the jet kit I cleaned the tank, took out/cleaned the intank strainer/filters, added a filter between petcock and carb, and carb was like new clean. Doesn't mean something didn't make it in there somehow.
FWIW, I called Dynojet and they gave me their basic troubleshooting guide. But one thing they mentioned was moving the needle clip one notch richer on the slide....? Thoughts?
But the main issue/mystery to me is that it runs like a new bike, real strong, in every other way... I can't get it to stutter/sputter redlining it in any gear while riding...?
Thanks for the comments
FWIW, I called Dynojet and they gave me their basic troubleshooting guide. But one thing they mentioned was moving the needle clip one notch richer on the slide....? Thoughts?
But the main issue/mystery to me is that it runs like a new bike, real strong, in every other way... I can't get it to stutter/sputter redlining it in any gear while riding...?
Thanks for the comments
#7
Update:
So petcock checks out/functions properly. Bike seems to run good. BUT I found that the stall is after a closed throttle/coast/brake from the near WOT position itself... not just 6th gear. I got it to do it in 4th and 5th after a short distance at/near WOT, then rapid deceleration/closed throttle.
So the next question is, maybe too lean of the midrange or WOT carb fuel circuit ? It accelerates great when riding hard but I usually rev out in mid range before hitting WOT. This is my first 250 in a long time, but it feels like it's pulling pretty hard for what it is (have a 44T rear/14 front). So, lower the needle clip one notch... or increase main jet one notch? Which would you try first? I guess needle is easier.... Thanks
So petcock checks out/functions properly. Bike seems to run good. BUT I found that the stall is after a closed throttle/coast/brake from the near WOT position itself... not just 6th gear. I got it to do it in 4th and 5th after a short distance at/near WOT, then rapid deceleration/closed throttle.
So the next question is, maybe too lean of the midrange or WOT carb fuel circuit ? It accelerates great when riding hard but I usually rev out in mid range before hitting WOT. This is my first 250 in a long time, but it feels like it's pulling pretty hard for what it is (have a 44T rear/14 front). So, lower the needle clip one notch... or increase main jet one notch? Which would you try first? I guess needle is easier.... Thanks
Last edited by RECON250s; 02-25-2024 at 12:52 AM.
#8
I would think that if there is a restriction, it would be most noticeable under prolonged heavy load. That's going to require the highest flow rate.
Sounds like a 'flame-out' where it goes lean under that condition-I'd double check the float level and adjust the idle mixture.
Sounds like a 'flame-out' where it goes lean under that condition-I'd double check the float level and adjust the idle mixture.
#9
I used to have my SR500 do that occasionally. I think it may have happened on the KLX650, but I don't remember. I think it might have been fuel sloshing forward in the float bowl or the like, causing a rich condition. Another situation too, would be pulling i the clutch and shutting the throttle quickly, possibly causing a back fire stalling the engine. The SR did that occasionally, but that was usually when starting out.
#10
I used to have my SR500 do that occasionally. I think it may have happened on the KLX650, but I don't remember. I think it might have been fuel sloshing forward in the float bowl or the like, causing a rich condition. Another situation too, would be pulling i the clutch and shutting the throttle quickly, possibly causing a back fire stalling the engine. The SR did that occasionally, but that was usually when starting out.
It 'feels' more like a sloshing, or vacuum, stall more than something much more abrupt. It seems like something is either robbing it of fuel at that point, or flooding it with fuel. But it seems that if it were being flooded with fuel that it shouldn't/wouldn't fire right back up so fast in the turn (it right after the turn)...??
I do have the front/top vac port on the carb (that used to go to the PAIR valve) capped off. Does the carb need to be vented there , or was that just to activate the pair valve? It just runs so good otherwise, it's hard to imagine what would be doing it. Thanks for the help guys.