Bike dies after 7 miles, checked everything, need help....?????
#41
Here's a thread that discusses some grounding of wires... May or may may not be the thread referenced...
See post #54
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...d-34470/page6/
See post #54
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...d-34470/page6/
#42
Do you have an engine stop switch on the handle bar? I've seen a couple of KLX300's have running problems due to that switch. Your switch, if you have one, may be different due to the electric starter circuit. If you have one, see if you can get some contact cleaner onto the contacts.
Ride on
Brewster
Ride on
Brewster
#43
Here's a thread that discusses some grounding of wires... May or may may not be the thread referenced...
See post #54
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...d-34470/page6/
See post #54
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...d-34470/page6/
#44
Do you have an engine stop switch on the handle bar? I've seen a couple of KLX300's have running problems due to that switch. Your switch, if you have one, may be different due to the electric starter circuit. If you have one, see if you can get some contact cleaner onto the contacts.
Ride on
Brewster
Ride on
Brewster
I'm going to try jumping the ground wire to/from regulator. I HOPE that works, but not banking on it cuz my bike doesn't surge at all. It kills out very sudden like key is turned off at all rpm ranges. Only consistant thing is the time and distance when this starts.
#45
Here's a thread that discusses some grounding of wires... May or may may not be the thread referenced...
See post #54
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...d-34470/page6/
See post #54
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...d-34470/page6/
My bike doesn't surge though, but going to try it.
#46
Your bike should have a kill switch on the handlebar. I don't see how that would be your problem, but it is in the circuit. It would be worth a try if your running out of options.
When it dies, I would just work the kill button on/off a few times to see if perhaps something is going on there, maybe a loose/overheating wire connection or something?
When it dies, I would just work the kill button on/off a few times to see if perhaps something is going on there, maybe a loose/overheating wire connection or something?
#47
Like I said above a post or 2, I don't have a kill switch. I removed the kill switch about 3,000 miles ago when I installed a Motion Pro Vortex MX 1/8 twist throttle. The stock kill and starter switch was part of the stock throttle housing. All my bypasses have been checked multiple times. That's why I said you can clearly see that if you watch the video of the bike "having" the problem that I put it in my original post. Kinda helps and avoids useless posts if everything is read and viewed that I provided. Good thought though since this could be "Anything" at this point. I know of issues just like this that turned out being a crack and when metal heats up and expands, the crack opens up breaking the circuit. This is "VERY" hard to find cuz it could be anything and anywhere, wire, connection, or internal and inside an electrical componant like the coil, CDI, etc.....LOL I don't have any hair left to pull out anymore...lol I'm almost to the point where I need to walk away from my bike for a day or two just to clear my head. Come back after a few days nice and fresh. I also need to find someone with same bike to swap CDI with to test if its that. Either try their's in my bike, or mine in their bike to see if it fails. No one that I know of out of 700 plus riders in my off road trail riding club has a KLX. It's 80% KTM, Beta, Husqvarna's and the rest are Honda XR650's and Suzuki DRZ's and a handful of Yamaha WR250r and WR450f. I haven't seen another KLX since I've had mine. I see 20 to 50ish other riders each time I'm out on the trails. Just no Kawasaki's..... I did see a KLR once....LOL
Last edited by Werloc; 05-20-2016 at 03:08 PM.
#48
I must confess that I didn't watch the video. I thought that it was an advertisement inserted into your post But now that I've seen it, it adds to the confusion. Engine seems to go back to a running state too quickly for a fuel supply to fuel bowl problem. It also recovers very quick which lessens the possibility of something of any mass having an internal thermal problem.
My engine kill switch suggestion comes from the switch being on the left side of the handle bar on our non dual sport KLX's , which we can't see on your bike due to the gps or what ever that is on your left side.
Good luck!
Ride on
Brewster
My engine kill switch suggestion comes from the switch being on the left side of the handle bar on our non dual sport KLX's , which we can't see on your bike due to the gps or what ever that is on your left side.
Good luck!
Ride on
Brewster
#49
Ok, got ya. No kill switch. I kill engine by turning off power with the key.
So I removed my coil, and it tested iffy, so I ordered a used one on ebay. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this is my problem. If not, then I will try the regulator ground jumper. Other things came up the passed few days, so I didn't have time to do that and test it. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks again.
So I removed my coil, and it tested iffy, so I ordered a used one on ebay. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this is my problem. If not, then I will try the regulator ground jumper. Other things came up the passed few days, so I didn't have time to do that and test it. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks again.
#50
Ok, Update on my bike, it's fixed. It was a bad coil. Bought a used coil on ebay for $20 bucks, put it on my bike and took it out today for a solid, hard, non stop 1 hour test ride with no issues. Thanks to all that tried to help. I appreciate it....