First, let me say that their links are strong, the shipping was quick and the 3/4" gained from my links is very effective for me.

Now, let me make you aware of an engineering problem with the links. They are too thick (.38") compared to the stock links (.30") and need to be provided with a spacer or longer bolts. I sent them these pictures and my concerns and they said "just check the nuts every now and then and make sure they are to spec". I'm sorry, not only is that unacceptable, but with the nut BARELY the whole way on the bolt, if it loosens you are in trouble because there isn't even a whole thread left.

Another issue is if you didn't notice this, it is VERY EASY to intall the links and have one of them not seated on the shoulder correctly...very dangerous.

I'm not sure finding the right bolt with the right shoulder will be easy so I am going to look into having two spacers made. But IF THOSE OF YOU WHO ARE RUNNING THESE COMPLAIN TO THEM, MAYBE THEY WILL PROVIDE THIS. I even told them I would pay for the extra parts but they didn't want to.

SORRY, I don't care how fast you ship me a product and how pretty it is, if it is a POORLY ENGINEERED PACKAGE, I'd rather pay more and wait.....



[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

 

From what I see a thin nut would solve the problem. It would need to be an appropriate grade. With any luck a well stocked hardware store could fix the entire problem. I am with you here, 3 threads is ideal. But one thread will get you the full rated force for the fastener when properly torqued. Thread locker or safety wire (if there is room) will get you back to a reasonable margin of safety. You could also mark the nut and bolt with a punch after proper torque is applied. That would make your daily safety check quicker because looseness could be detected without a wrench.

Please post a pick of the assembled parts.

 

I am having a machinist build a set of links for me. They are raising links though. I want to get a benefit of more mechanical advantage for the spring in the rear. By making the links shorter, the bike is raisied about 1.25 inches. It also gives a bit of mechanical advantage to the spring on the rear.

Once they show up, I'll let y'all know how they work.

The length can be changed if you want the bike lower.

 

Actually, I'm alright with the nut, I'll wire it. It's more like a machine nut anyways, with a thing in the end that keeps it from turning easy. My issue isn't with that, but with the very small amount of shoulder contacting the link on that side. I think I'm going to have the round surface area contacted by the bolt taken down about .07 inch per side so that there is full seating. Then the nut will naturally have more threads sticking out.