Well, it took me two days to finally finish the mods. Thanks to all of the write ups I was able to do it without hitting too many walls. The pictures in the writeups make it look like there is a lot of room to work down there...definitely misleading. I have pretty small hands and when I finished they were all busted up because of the small area.

My intention was to keep the CA smog stuff on the bike, not because I am a green freak, but because I didn't see any point to remove it. After starting the work however, I quikcly realized how much of a PITA it was trying to work around all those extra hoses. So I took it all off.

When it was done it started with no hesitation, almost didn't even need to choke it. I ran it throuhg two heat cycles and then rode it around the parking lot. I noticed a lot of pop on decel. So that leads me to aks a couple of noob questions.
1. is it better to run lean or rich?
2. with the DJ kit, when you go up a jet size does that make things richer or leaner?
4. With the fuel screw which way to I turn it to lean/rich the mixture?

current set up is 132 main, third notch, snorkel removed stock filter.

I have a UNI filter but need to buy some oil, will KN oil work?

The exhaust sounds great also, going from the stock exhaust to a 351 and HMF can...it now sounds like a motorcycle and not a "sewing machine."

 

Better to run rich.
Up a jet size makes it richer.
Turn it out (anticlockwise) to make it richer. It's a fuel screw. Out = more fuel. No air screw on the CVK 34 carb'.

K&N oil isn't ideal but will work. I use Motul filter oil, works great and lasts forever.

 

I use No Toil, its great too and much easier to clean

 

yeah my mistake LOL, fuel screw... I'll fix it.

 

The fuel screw is definitely a good place to start for the popping...try about 2.5 turns CCW from fully closed. Also make sure you have a good seal where you plugged off the vacuum hose nipple on the carb (the one that went to your emmission hoses).

Good to hear everthing else is working well.

 

Hey Mav, dunno if it's available in Oz but I've found that OxyClean works great to clean the filters covered in No Toil oil. I tried cleaning my No Toiled filters the first time in soap and water. When that didn't work at all, I got online and found the info on OxyClean. Works perfect, and cheaper thant the No Toil cleaner.

 

DJ instructions- troubleshooting guide #9 'Bike functions normal except that it pops when you get off the throttle' -3rd suggestion 'try turning the mixture screw out 1/2 turn'.

Check out other klx owners for pilot jet sizes - I ended up w/ a 40 pilot jet 1.25 - 1.5 turns out, 38 worked but was turned out 3.5 - 3.75. Kouba instructions recommend going out no more than 2.5 or it can fall out. stock 35 is really lean and makes for hard starting.

Now your gonna be happy you bought that easily adjustable needle.

 

Thanks for the reference to the DJ instructions, I completely forgot about the troubleshooting guide. I am a little confused though, wouldn't the popping on decel mean it is running rich? That would indicate that I need to turn the fuel screw in woulnd't it? not out? I think I am sitting at 1 1/4 turn on the fuel screw.

 

Set the fuel screw correctly. Warm the bike up. Turn out until rough idle (take note) turn in until rough idle (take note.) Set the screw half way between the 2 points noted.

Popping on chopped throttle/overun indicates some lean running not rich.

Here's some ABC for ya.

 

We have found out that no matter what carb you are using go one size jet richer on pilot & up two richer on main jet.
Bill
B&B Cycle Restoration