BB 351 or BB331?

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  #11  
Old 03-05-2016, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Dash8
I didn't have to do anything with the 36... and I use both push pull... might be different with a bigger tank but stock fits well
That's good information. The few threads I searched showed only one cable used and grinding the actuator. They said that it rubbed on the bottom of the tank. Do you remember the ebay seller you bought the carb from? That's a very good price. Your bikes is a '11, I wonder if it would be different for the '08 (07)?
 

Last edited by Ruggybuggy; 03-05-2016 at 01:55 AM.
  #12  
Old 03-05-2016, 02:01 AM
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What about using the 34 pumper that BB sells? or is that more for a 250?
 
  #13  
Old 03-05-2016, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluezr7
What about using the 34 pumper that BB sells? or is that more for a 250?
The BB 34 doesn't seem to have a lot going for it. It's more money but it doesn't produce better results. Normally, you'd use a smaller carb to get better throttle response at small openings.

The 36 has no problem being sluggish at small openings. Fueling is well worked out. My jetting comes from early threads where people went through all the hassle step by step to produce great results. They did it so we don't have to.

The wisdom handed down there is the 351, with the 36 and a pipe and some opening of the airbox.

The TM36 or the TM34, both will work on either bike, but again the 36 is the well-trodden path. There's more collective wisdom and a long legacy of proven results.

For what it's worth I thought the TM36 made as much difference as adding the 351 kit. Together it is an amazing combo. Very rideable, no downside.

You can use either the 34 or the 26 on any engine cofig, it's just that a lot of people have done the 36 on the 351. So when you make changes you can come here and people will have the abilty to help you.

If you go pumper go 36 and more or less copy my jetting. Simple.

With the stock tank you do not need to grind anything off. I am running only the pull cable and have no problem at all with that.

FWIW I thought adding the TM36 made as much difference as adding the BB351 kit. Very rideable, no downside. Plenty of power. More than I need or can really use.
 

Last edited by taxonomy; 03-05-2016 at 12:14 PM.
  #14  
Old 03-05-2016, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by taxonomy
The BB 34 doesn't seem to have a lot going for it. It's more money but it doesn't produce better results. Normally, you'd use a smaller carb to get better throttle response at small openings.

The 36 has no problem being sluggish at small openings. Fueling is well worked out. My jetting comes from early threads where people went through all the hassle step by step to produce great results. They did it so we don't have to.

The wisdom handed down there is the 351, with the 36 and a pipe and some opening of the airbox.

The TM36 or the TM34, both will work on either bike, but again the 36 is the well-trodden path. There's more collective wisdom and a long legacy of proven results.

For what it's worth I thought the TM36 made as much difference as adding the 351 kit. Together it is an amazing combo. Very rideable, no downside.

You can use either the 34 or the 26 on any engine cofig, it's just that a lot of people have done the 36 on the 351. So when you make changes you can come here and people will have the abilty to help you.

If you go pumper go 36 and more or less copy my jetting. Simple.

With the stock tank you do not need to grind anything off. I am running only the pull cable and have no problem at all with that.

FWIW I thought adding the TM36 made as much difference as adding the BB351 kit. Very rideable, no downside. Plenty of power. More than I need or can really use.
Thanks for your detailed response. Can I run the TM36 on a 250 or wait until I do the BB 351? Not sure if that's what you meant by either bike in your response.
 
  #15  
Old 03-05-2016, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by taxonomy
The wisdom handed down there is the 351, with the 36 and a pipe and some opening of the airbox.
Can you explain the use of the "pipe" and opening the air box. Trying to get an idea on the modifications I'm going to have to do


Originally Posted by taxonomy
With the stock tank you do not need to grind anything off. I am running only the pull cable and have no problem at all with that.
Why did you decide not to use the push cable?

Originally Posted by taxonomy
FWIW I thought adding the TM36 made as much difference as adding the BB351 kit. Very rideable, no downside. Plenty of power. More than I need or can really use.
I thought the addition of the TM36 only resulted in 2HP?
 
  #16  
Old 03-05-2016, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Ruggybuggy
Can you explain the use of the "pipe" and opening the air box. Trying to get an idea on the modifications I'm going to have to do




Why did you decide not to use the push cable?



I thought the addition of the TM36 only resulted in 2HP?
By pipe he means aftermarket exhaust..... Again, got mine off eBay ( 2 bros M7 Vale) used... Works great.
Opening the Airbox is exactly that... The Airbox under the seat is either left with the lid completely off, or a KDX snorkel is used...

Really no need to run the push cable as the actuator on the 36 is spring loaded anyways..

I agree, adding the TM36 made as much, if not more, of a difference than just the 351. Don't get me wrong, the 351 adds ***** to the bike, but when you add the 36, it just wakens the 351 up... Hills climbs are a none event and power wheelies (no clutch) all day long.

I got my 36 off a private seller on eBay, he had gotten it for a project and never used it, but there are ones popping up all the time, even on here...good thing is you can run the 351 with the stock carb until you get everything else..

I spent about 900$ US for evything, last year...
 
  #17  
Old 03-05-2016, 03:27 PM
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Bluezr7, you can certainly use the TM36 on your bike. Richard Avatar did the experiementing with both a TM36 and a TM40 on his stock bore - read his threads - he reported excellent results.

RuggyB, the TM36 gives way more improvement in the overall rideability and power delivery over the CVK. It will transform the way you ride your bike. On the dyno, there may only be a peak HP improvement of 2-3, but - (1). That is a huge power leap, over 10%. (2). The even greater TRQ and throttle response improvement is "life changing" for the bike.
 

Last edited by Klxster; 03-05-2016 at 03:33 PM.
  #18  
Old 03-05-2016, 03:42 PM
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This is just my opinion:
A good mod list would be - MCM, exhaust, jetted for lidless running. Do this all at once and the bike is a totally new animal with "biggy power".
Next add the TM36 for even more power everywhere, PLUS the added "new" performance that the accelerator pump gives you.
After enjoying all the above performance, if you want more, add the 351 kit and jump directly to 28+ HP and huge TRQ numbers ...
 
  #19  
Old 03-05-2016, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Klxster
This is just my opinion:
A good mod list would be - MCM, exhaust, jetted for lidless running. Do this all at once and the bike is a totally new animal with "biggy power".
Next add the TM36 for even more power everywhere, PLUS the added "new" performance that the accelerator pump gives you.
After enjoying all the above performance, if you want more, add the 351 kit and jump directly to 28+ HP and huge TRQ numbers ...
I might be wrong, but I think I remember reading that if you do the 351, it's not recommended to do the MCM?
 
  #20  
Old 03-05-2016, 05:29 PM
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Somewhere in the beginning of the very long MCM thread it was confirmed that there was a benifit in doing the mod. Klxster point that out.
 


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