BB 331 install, head gasket question

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Old 11-09-2010 | 12:09 AM
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Default BB 331 install, head gasket question

The Kawasaki manual instructs to put a liquid on top of the base mating surface before placing the base gasket and then cylinder on. I've heard conflicting reports on this technique. Yes, or no for the head gasket supplied by Bill?

Nevermind, I re-read the manual, it's only talking about the slightly camfered edges where the cases meet on the base of the case. That, I can believe.

Can hardly wait to get it all back together!
 

Last edited by Blackheart58; 11-09-2010 at 12:43 AM.
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Old 11-09-2010 | 01:05 AM
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Your gonna love it! I think its the bast thing you can do to either the SF or the S model. I've had no problems with mine since I got the jetting perfect on the pumper carb.
 
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Old 11-09-2010 | 04:49 AM
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Got all the important things put back together. Valve check turned out smack in the middle of spec. Only scare I had was a circlip disappeared when I was removing it. Thought it went into the chasm of doom. Kept working while periodically looking for it down "the hole". For comparison, I dropped the other on the floor...sure did sound loud...and I didn't hear the first one hit any where. Banged on the skidplate to see if I could hear it rattle. Nope. Thought it might have hung up on some wiring...sure enough, it was lying on top of a radiator hose. SHEESH! That would have killed me if I couldn't find it.

Fit the rings by hand, after indexing them. That wasn't fun. But, the worst thing was putting the front two 8mm bolts back in the coolant housing on the front of the cylinder. That probably took me 45 minutes. Just not enough room to work down there.

Work is going to keep me too busy to finish, all I have to do is hook up the oil line, exhaust, put a new jet in the carb and re-install it, tank and bodywork.

First time going this deep in a motorcycle engine. Wasn't too hard, but, I've done a lot of valve-clearance checks and Balancer Lever (doohickey) replacement/upgrades, as well as clutches....so, I've been all over and in different bikes, just never replaced a cylinder or piston. It was fun.

I bet it will be even more fun to ride it!
 
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Old 11-09-2010 | 05:23 AM
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B58...first time going in this deep into a motorcycle engine?...it'll never run again.
 
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Old 11-09-2010 | 09:01 AM
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You will love it- Just take your time it will all work out. When I did mine, I took pic's of the cams to make sure it went back correct.

Also watch the torque specs some are in ftlb some inlb.

My klx is gone for a few years now- but it was one of the most fun bike I ever had.And the most reliable.
 
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Old 11-09-2010 | 10:20 AM
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When you are done, I want to hear ALL about it, not what you did, but how the bike performs. Sitting on the edge of going big.,,,,,, Most of the money saved up.....

Bike is running awesome now, so I just keep riding it.

David Loving my KLX SF!
 
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Old 11-09-2010 | 12:31 PM
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Good job! Isn't it fun to rip into your motor?? hahaa..

And talk about rewarding - feels good to build it and have it actually work

I'll never understand guys that checkbook repairs/upgrades on their dirt bikes.. I would never own a motor vehicle that I couldn't do 99% of the work on myself - let alone a dirt bike!

Good luck with the maiden fire up.
 
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Old 11-09-2010 | 12:57 PM
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It's killing me to go off to work today. It's much more important to fire this thing up. But, I want to get replacement allen bolts for the screws in the carb, and some longer bolts for the skidplate (after seeing CL's case-punch, I'm leaving the stock small aluminum plate...which has rubber bumpers...under the add-on plate), would prefer to wait on some oil line washers and a new exhaust gasket...but, I can always use the originals and put those new ones in when they get here. What's a little oil leak and/or exhaust leak compared to being able to fire it up?

Timing wasn't hard at all. I kept tension on the chain the entire proceedure...needlessly worried about that, I see. Doesn't matter where the chain is located on the crank, it's still going to be the correct length up to the exhaust cam gear, it's just a matter of getting the gear on the correct link, then do the same on the intake cam gear. Turned it over 4-5 times, lines up perfectly, the cam lobes to bucket clearances were spot on.

I have a stage 2 Dynojet. I planned to jump up a size on the main...the stage 2 is a 128. But, the kit has a 132. Should I get a 130, or go ahead with the 132?

Finally, I'm at the stage two needle setting (although I cannot recall right now what that is without reading or looking at the needle, but, I think it is on the third notch). Do I raise it one more notch, or if I put a 132 in, do I just leave it where it is?

Thanks for any experienced advice! Or, razzing, if that's what you've got to offer (TNC!).
 
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Old 11-09-2010 | 02:04 PM
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Predicting the need for forthcoming jetting can be difficult. I did all the mods to my '06 KLX250S which included a full Muzzy and open topped airbox with no screen, and I was shocked to find that I didn't change the jetting from a modded 250 to a 300 jug. That was with a 128 DJ main. You're going a little bigger, but don't be shocked if you don't need any big jetting changes. I notice you're using the quiet core in your muffler, and that may play a factor in not needing big main jet swap.

But like I said earlier, since this is your first time in a motorcycle engine, it will never run again, so jetting won't be a problem....but good luck anyway.
 
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Old 11-09-2010 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TNC
But like I said earlier, since this is your first time in a motorcycle engine, it will never run again, so jetting won't be a problem....but good luck anyway.
Ha! That's why I'm thinking 130 should be enough. Wonder why Dynojet skipped that size in the kit? Oh, well...doesn't matter if it won't run!
 


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