basics?
#11
RE: basics?
Frog, there are two major beliefs about that-some believe in gentle break-in, like the factory says. Many believe in a hard break-in. If you search this forum for breakin or break-in you'll see many threads debating that. I went the fast way, and had mine close to redline on its first ride. There are some rules about it though, primarily being don't overheat it. Here's a link to some of the info:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I'm not sure who's right, but the traffic here goes so fast I couldn't stay under 4000 rpm and ride in traffic. I now have over 700 miles on my bike, and I can say it runs better every day I ride it. Lots more power than when new; it seemed to really improve after 300 miles. It is much smoother as well. Also, it's probably a good idea to change your oil and filter sooner than what the manual says; I did mine at 300 and it was nasty dirty!
Have fun with your bike!
doc
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I'm not sure who's right, but the traffic here goes so fast I couldn't stay under 4000 rpm and ride in traffic. I now have over 700 miles on my bike, and I can say it runs better every day I ride it. Lots more power than when new; it seemed to really improve after 300 miles. It is much smoother as well. Also, it's probably a good idea to change your oil and filter sooner than what the manual says; I did mine at 300 and it was nasty dirty!
Have fun with your bike!
doc
#12
RE: basics?
I used the Mototune method, and keep in mind it has to be done before you get miles on the bike. I really believe that both ways are ok. I changed the oil after 40 miles, and then 100 then 500, I am getting ready to switch to synthetic. I have almost 3,000 on the bike with not a bit of trouble.
#13
RE: basics?
I opted for the Mototune / Hard Acceleration break-in method as well. I can't tell you what the first 3 kilometers on the bike were like, but kilometers 4 through 38 were pretty exciting! I changed my oil and filter afterwards, too. I was surprised at both how cloudy the oil was and how dark the filter was. The oil didn't "sparkle", but there was something suspended in there!
And granted, 38 kilometers is not a lot to get to "know" your machine, but if I had to guess, it was a little smoother when I got home than when I left the dealer's lot. (The clutch has a much different feel than the KLR-250 that I traded in, so I stalled a few times by dumping too much clutch too quickly ... but I'll get used to that soon enough.)
I'm still trying to decide how I'll do the rest of my break-in. I'll still do the Mototune method, but gradually change to a more conventional break-in, maybe by 100 Km. The key to the Mototune method is that it addresses getting a proper seating of the rings with the cylinder VERY EARLY in the break-in period (i.e.: first 20 miles) ... doing it later will NOT have the same effect. Most of the break-in method discussions focus on the mating of rings and cylinder, but only a few people discuss other components that "get acquainted" during break-in (gears, bearings, etc.). So I'll probably continue with hard accelerations and decelerations, but probably try and limit engine RPM to 6K-7K while I'm between 100 and 300 kilometers (I probably hit 8K and maybe 9K yesterday when accelerating up through the lower gears ... I'll just have to learn to contain my enthusiasm!!!)
Best wishes,
Mike
And granted, 38 kilometers is not a lot to get to "know" your machine, but if I had to guess, it was a little smoother when I got home than when I left the dealer's lot. (The clutch has a much different feel than the KLR-250 that I traded in, so I stalled a few times by dumping too much clutch too quickly ... but I'll get used to that soon enough.)
I'm still trying to decide how I'll do the rest of my break-in. I'll still do the Mototune method, but gradually change to a more conventional break-in, maybe by 100 Km. The key to the Mototune method is that it addresses getting a proper seating of the rings with the cylinder VERY EARLY in the break-in period (i.e.: first 20 miles) ... doing it later will NOT have the same effect. Most of the break-in method discussions focus on the mating of rings and cylinder, but only a few people discuss other components that "get acquainted" during break-in (gears, bearings, etc.). So I'll probably continue with hard accelerations and decelerations, but probably try and limit engine RPM to 6K-7K while I'm between 100 and 300 kilometers (I probably hit 8K and maybe 9K yesterday when accelerating up through the lower gears ... I'll just have to learn to contain my enthusiasm!!!)
Best wishes,
Mike
#14
RE: basics?
I'm not disputing that fast break-in doesn't work, however, I will say that what Mototune guy (and you) say about traditional break-in not working is total bunk. I originally broke my bike in traditional and near the end definitely felt the power increase as the rings seated.
About 2500 miles later I installed a 300cc big bore cylinder and piston. This procedure gave me the opportunity to see the piston and cylinder that resulted from the traditional break-in and the piston looked shiny new below the rings - perfect, not even a speck of blow-by. According to Mototune guy, this cannot happen - yet there it is. There's enough fud and mis-information on engine break-in out there - no need to muddy the waters any more. These pictures don't lie:
There are a lot of reasons for piston failure and Mototune guy attributes them all to traditional break-in. That's a load of bunk, IMO. (See photos above )
Edit: fix image links
About 2500 miles later I installed a 300cc big bore cylinder and piston. This procedure gave me the opportunity to see the piston and cylinder that resulted from the traditional break-in and the piston looked shiny new below the rings - perfect, not even a speck of blow-by. According to Mototune guy, this cannot happen - yet there it is. There's enough fud and mis-information on engine break-in out there - no need to muddy the waters any more. These pictures don't lie:
There are a lot of reasons for piston failure and Mototune guy attributes them all to traditional break-in. That's a load of bunk, IMO. (See photos above )
Edit: fix image links
#15
RE: basics?
Thank you nobrakes for the pictures, i always like to have examples of what people say, since i don't know much about mechanics. I still don't know what kind of break-in i will go for but i guess in the doubt i should use the kawasaki one...
By the way, since i'm a beginner do you think i should go for the mods or you need to have a minimum of mechanics knowledge?
Thank you.
By the way, since i'm a beginner do you think i should go for the mods or you need to have a minimum of mechanics knowledge?
Thank you.
#16
RE: basics?
I think either break-in method is fine.
Regarding mods, I'd encourage you to learn to do as much as you can yourself. If you don't have any experience, start doing the smaller stuff and as you have a few successes there and gain confidence, work your way up to the more complex things.
Regarding mods, I'd encourage you to learn to do as much as you can yourself. If you don't have any experience, start doing the smaller stuff and as you have a few successes there and gain confidence, work your way up to the more complex things.
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