Anyway to know?
#11
Shamefully admit to following that thread.
Also shamefully admit to cracking my oil filter cover the first time I changed the filter.
Too used to wrenching on old Volvos. (1988 240DL brick)
PS: EMS isn't evil, sometimes misunderstood, being from Pittsburgh, happens a lot.
#13
Question 1
Yes, the jets have the numbers on them. stock pilot is a #35, stock main is a #118
rufcutriders.com - Index
Yes, the jets have the numbers on them. stock pilot is a #35, stock main is a #118
rufcutriders.com - Index
Last edited by 2007 Green Machine; 02-02-2012 at 04:45 AM.
#14
I agree! Some people get a little testy here but most people here are going to give you the help you need. I'm on this forum every single day, but sometimes go weeks with out posting. At this time I would say about 98% of my posts are questions, 1% helping someone out, and 1% BS posts. Welcome!!!
#15
You seem to have alot of knowledge with this bike from reading your posts. I'm a little confused and I'm sure I'm wrong. My manual says the main jet is a #132 and CA is #118 on page 2-4 in the supplement manual. I plan on doing the 351 kit this year and just want to make sure I go 2 up in size. Well at least I think it's 2 up from what I've been reading. If you could make this clear for me it would be great. I know I kind of hijacked this thread a little. Sorry.
You should pull your carb and look at your main jet to be positive. I think our US bikes have a Keihin #118 main jet stock, but the Aussies get a #132. Bill told me to go +1 on the pilot and +2 on the main as a general recommendation.
#16
I agree with IDRIDR .....I can't speak for AUS bikes... The numbers i posted are at least the US models. 132 seems awful big from the factory, i had a 128 in my bike and it seemed to be running rich. I just bought the 38 pilot and 130 main for my 351 kit. Im going to start with the 128 main.
#18
If the carb was not rejetted after removing the air box lid and replacing the exhaust system, the bike would run like crap (mid and upper rpm range) due to a very lean fuel mixture.
Ride on
Brewster
Ride on
Brewster
#19
Just to clear things up. The original pipe is on the bike. The PO handed me the HMF pipe and said he had it on the bike but it was too loud.
The bike seems to run OK with the original pipe.
Wanting to install the HMF pipe, I thought it wise to determine the current jetting as not to create a lean condition?
I got the carb off and everything looks original, as far as I can tell.
I didn't see any numbers and the fuel screw cap is still in place.
Looks like I need to order some parts?
Does anybody sell a kit that will have all the parts?
PS: Tried to upload a pic from my PC but ain't workin.
EMS: That's a lot of green you've assembled!
#20
The main and pilot jets will have numbers on them, and I think you should be able to read those numbers without removing the jets.
Many of us here use the DynoJet kit. Mine was the model #2206 for KLX300 that was the only one available for our bikes until they came out with other models for the 2009-10 bikes. It comes with a needle, series of main jets, instructions, drill bits, etc. It doesn't come with a pilot (which you may not need).
Some guys have also went all Kaw parts (e.g. N1TC needle, or shim stock one).
Consider also the T-handle Kouba fuel screw which makes for easy adjustment of the fuel:air mixture.
Many of us here use the DynoJet kit. Mine was the model #2206 for KLX300 that was the only one available for our bikes until they came out with other models for the 2009-10 bikes. It comes with a needle, series of main jets, instructions, drill bits, etc. It doesn't come with a pilot (which you may not need).
Some guys have also went all Kaw parts (e.g. N1TC needle, or shim stock one).
Consider also the T-handle Kouba fuel screw which makes for easy adjustment of the fuel:air mixture.