Hi,

I was wondering if someone from Seattle would let me borrow their voltage regulator to try on my bike for a test run?

I am trying to solve an electrical problem on my 2009 KLX250SF and I need to see if it is the voltage regulator...

I would need it for 10min (just the time to make a run on the highway and I get it back ASAP).

Thank you
-Nicolas

 

If nobody is willing to let me use theirs... Could you test ride your bike with my Voltage Regulator and see if it has the same issue as mine?

I am just trying to see if I need to buy a Voltage Regulator, a stator or a rotor/magneto... The voltage regulator is the easiest to remove from the equation...

The problem I am having:
the bike runs fine but from 6,000rpm all the way up, the bike studders... When unplugging the Voltage regulator, the bike runs fine...

Please help me solve my problem.

Thank you

 

Hey Man, I'm about 80 miles north of you. Happy to help if I can, but my KLX is an 06, so not sure if we have the same part. PM me and I'll get back to you. Later

 

Thank you... Let me check if the parts are the same...

Unfortunately the Voltage regulator is different:
- Part #21066-0027 -> 2009 KLX250SF
- Part #21066-1093 -> 2006 KLX250S

Thanks for getting back to me...

 

Be careful swapping out electrical parts! If something caused the original voltage regulator to burn out, the same problem could very likely burn out the "borrowed" voltage regulator. Now you have to buy one for you and another one for the good Samaritan. Your better off to find a way to actually test the component your are su****ious of.
EDIT: This crazy forum will not let you, even if the letters are in the middle of a word, put the letters s,p,i, and c together, as above in susp i cious that it automatically edited with ***'s Glad we're all politically correct.

Dan

 

Hmmm...

Do u have an idea of how I could test a voltage regulator under load (exact replication of highway riding)? Or a stator?

I do not intent to harm anybody's Voltage Regulator... So yes, we should be careful... :-(

What do I do now?

Is there a way to order a new voltage regulator for testing and return it if the issue is not from it? And keep it if it solves my problem?

 

From your description, I see either

1- normal voltage while battery is being charged (13.5 to 14V) makes the CDI or ignition coil go wrong. When you test with the regulator disconnected, the voltage always stays below 12.5V, that would be why it runs fine. When you run the engine at high speed, the battery voltage increases slightly with rpm

2- overvoltage (ex: >15V) on your supply rail when the engine reaches 6000 rpm, due to a defective regulator or soon to fail battery. The CDI might enter in a protective mode in this case.

Hypothesis 1 would indicate the CDI or ignition coil is very marginal and very close to fail definitely.

Hypothesis 2 would mean that the battery is highly stressed when you spin the engine, or that it is close to being an open circuit. But since you appear to be able to crank the bike with it, chances are that it is still good.

I would check the battery voltage while spinning the engine to the point where you have the malfunction. It might give a lead as to what is faulty in your bike.

 

Get yourself a MOSFET voltage regulator/rectifier. From an electronic perspective, it's the only way to go. I've been an electronic tech for 40 years.

The pages on this website tell you how to test things with simple diagrams.

http://roadstercycle.com/

 

Thanks guys. I will work on the bike tomorrow to figure out what is wrong.