Anybody else contstantly readjusting their A/F screw?

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  #11  
Old 11-05-2012 | 03:48 PM
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TNC
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That's not right at all. Something is wrong there. The Kouba screw is threaded just like the OEM unit unless you got a bad one. Your description of the Kouba screw not going in loose and having a little resistance is relatively normal. I wonder if the threads in the carb are buggered? Still, the brass fuel screw is usually the "victim" in a crossthread scenario rather than the carb body. Vibration shouldn't be a big issue here, since the carb is mounted between two rubber mounts.

The fuel screw just should not turn on its own. I'm curious about your need for a two steps larger pilot jet.
 
  #12  
Old 11-05-2012 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TNC
That's not right at all. Something is wrong there. The Kouba screw is threaded just like the OEM unit unless you got a bad one. Your description of the Kouba screw not going in loose and having a little resistance is relatively normal. I wonder if the threads in the carb are buggered? Still, the brass fuel screw is usually the "victim" in a crossthread scenario rather than the carb body. Vibration shouldn't be a big issue here, since the carb is mounted between two rubber mounts.

The fuel screw just should not turn on its own. I'm curious about your need for a two steps larger pilot jet.
Me too, with the FMF, K&N, a ground header, smog delete, removed snorkel and dyno jet kit with a 24 main, I'm at 2.5 turns out on the stock pilot... and I still get a good amount of decel pop with no throttle.
 
  #13  
Old 11-05-2012 | 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TNC
Are you sure your o-ring and spring are still in place on the screw?
Yeah make sure they are in the proper order: O-ring, washer, spring, then the Kouba screw.

Kouba states that it can and will vibrate out if turned farher than 2.5 turns out.
 
  #14  
Old 11-06-2012 | 04:24 AM
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I can barely turn my Kouba screw by hand it's so tight.
 
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