Having work 32 years as a Ford tech I have learned there many ways to approach a problem so presented with the task of drilling out the idle mixture plug and starter jet I set out to find a easier way to access the carb. I removed the screw holding the cable bracket to the carb body ( make sure to use red Loc-Tite when reinstalling this screw ). Next I loosened the 2 carb clamps at intake and air box. Remove host on the front top of carb and turn the idle speed screw in 3 turns. now spin the carb 1/4 turn counter clockwise and the bottom of the carb is now easy to access without the hassle of removing it. Total time to get the carb bowl off and drill out the plug was under 10 minutes.

 

Smart thinking and great job, but it's been done Glad you posted it because maybe it hasn't been mentioned on here in a while. I learned it a while back from someone on here who had figured it out. One of the other tips (I forget who posted it ) was to replace the bowl screws with Allen head screws. This will make it easier to get the fastener loose without camming out the head, as is easy with a Phillips head. With the Allen heads you can loosen them, even if you don't have a straight shot, with ball head Allen wrenches. I even replaced the phillips screw that holds the throttle cable bracket on the side of the carb, with an Allen head just to keep from stripping the head out.
Dan

 

Anyone know the size of the screws so I can have some ready?

 

m4 x 15?

 

Only if you never plan to remove that screw again. Blue loctite if you must, but very sparingly, and probably nothing is best.

 

Watch out though.... if you over tighten the hex head bolts you will stripp the threads as they are very soft.

The reason for using the Philips head screws are because the screws are softer than the cast that the carb is made out of meaning that you will strip the screws before you strip the cast.

Found this out the hard way.

 

I use the red stuff. I use just the slightest little fraction of a drop. The reason I do this is because the red stuff never gets hard and you don't need to reapply it if you take it apart and put it together. But you do need to be careful with it. I like the purple stuff too.

 

Red or #271 Locktite is a more permanent thread locker. If it is applied correctly It will not let go unless heated to over 500*f.

Blue or #242 is a removable locktite. It keeps things from vibratiing loose. It could be used on screws that adjust things like throttle speed.

One whole drop of red on that screw will make the cable bracket part of the carb.

do as you wish. Read all about it here. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlockers.shtml

I like the turn the carb thing. I leave the cables attached on my TM36-68 to change the pilot jet or remove the bowl.

David

 

Its really not that bad to get out and get back in... i have done it a bunch of times. When i modified the carb on my KLR650 i didnt remove it, i just spun it around like this... there was alot more work on the KLX carb so i took it out, having to drill the slide, rejet, its alot easier to find something dropped on a workbench than over top of the bike and hope it hits the floor. Theres nothing worse than working on a car or bike and dropping something and NOT hearing it hit the floor... cause then you gotta hunt for it to see where it ended up.