Another "Ticking" Engine Question
#1
Another "Ticking" Engine Question
Hi there.
I have a 2007 with just under 4000 km on it. The bike starts and runs well.
The only issue I have is a high pitched ticking metallic sound that is there at idle and at higher RPM.
I just put on the manual cam chain adjuster, and believe I have installed it correctly. This tick was there before the new adjuster and is still there.
The valves are in spec.
Here is a YouTube video link of the sound:
https://youtu.be/s4ydN0CetDk
Any idea what the ticking is from?
Thanks.
Peter
I have a 2007 with just under 4000 km on it. The bike starts and runs well.
The only issue I have is a high pitched ticking metallic sound that is there at idle and at higher RPM.
I just put on the manual cam chain adjuster, and believe I have installed it correctly. This tick was there before the new adjuster and is still there.
The valves are in spec.
Here is a YouTube video link of the sound:
https://youtu.be/s4ydN0CetDk
Any idea what the ticking is from?
Thanks.
Peter
#3
Sounds fairly normal to me. Problem most make with doing videos is that they do not move around and close in on specific areas making it impossible to try to locate the source of the sound.
I tell people to use either a mechanic's stethoscope:
or long handle screwdriver, ear against handle, putting the tip in and around areas on the engine:
to find where a noise may be loudest.
One thing I thought of when I viewed the video - suction read valve noise from the pollution system. The reed will click as it opens and closes. This could be detected if the tip of the stethoscope or screwdriver was put in against that area of the head.
I wrote a note to you about adjusting the tensioner - do not over tighten it. If you tightened trying to take out a click that wasn't from the cam drive you may have it overly tight.
I tell people to use either a mechanic's stethoscope:
or long handle screwdriver, ear against handle, putting the tip in and around areas on the engine:
to find where a noise may be loudest.
One thing I thought of when I viewed the video - suction read valve noise from the pollution system. The reed will click as it opens and closes. This could be detected if the tip of the stethoscope or screwdriver was put in against that area of the head.
I wrote a note to you about adjusting the tensioner - do not over tighten it. If you tightened trying to take out a click that wasn't from the cam drive you may have it overly tight.
#4
Search this forum for a "KLX351 noise". I tried to include a link in my reply but couldn't pull it off. Sorry.
You can hear some real clicking that I was concerned about, but now have learned to accept as normal.
You can hear some real clicking that I was concerned about, but now have learned to accept as normal.
Last edited by Oldad; 06-04-2015 at 12:56 PM. Reason: Link didn't work. Screw it.
#5
Thanks for all the replies, folks.
I am fairly confident that it isn't anything to worry about, but wanted some expert opinions. I know it is hard to diagnose anything from a video, so I thank you for your attempt.
No worries about the can chain adjuster, I have set it as per the instructions and will not try to rectify the tick by over-tightening. I actual do have the scope, and I can't seem to find the source. I am quite sure it is not the cam chain.
The idea of the pollution valve is interesting, as the tick may be coming from that area.
Anyway, I am not going to worry about it and just ride.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
I am fairly confident that it isn't anything to worry about, but wanted some expert opinions. I know it is hard to diagnose anything from a video, so I thank you for your attempt.
No worries about the can chain adjuster, I have set it as per the instructions and will not try to rectify the tick by over-tightening. I actual do have the scope, and I can't seem to find the source. I am quite sure it is not the cam chain.
The idea of the pollution valve is interesting, as the tick may be coming from that area.
Anyway, I am not going to worry about it and just ride.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
#6
It's too bad that us old timers know the difference between valve train and reciprocating assembly noises but can't hear anymore..LOL Valve train "ticks" occur at half speed, rod bearings, pistons etc, at full speed (every revolution of the engine).. Timing chain racket is different still.. On a 4 stroke single cylinder, the exhaust pulses should be at cam speed..
Last edited by Klxster; 06-05-2015 at 02:50 AM.
#7
Believe me, no problem hearing any noise with that mechanic's stethoscope. If you bump the probe against something it is almost deafening.
They do the trick in locating engine noises. I found I could locate which two valves on my 550 are slightly out of spec (.001 out). You can hear the tick, but with the stethoscope you can place the probe along the cam cover and find which ones they are. Pretty cool.
I picked up a set for about $10 on ebay. They're about as cheap at Harbor Freight, but when I figured the time to run down and the distance to them it was just as easy to do ebay. I'm about 30 miles from an HF... and Iron Pony is only about 3 miles from them on the way home... talk about "a kid in a candy store" - that's me in both places!
I picked up a 3/4 sleeve MX jersey from there for $2.99! Not the latest and greatest obviously, but good enough to beat around in the woods. They regularly have some killer deals on cut out coats if you can verify the right size.
Right now they have one of the best enduro jackets I've ever seen and owned, the old First Gear Timbuktu. Unfortunately they only have Medium and Small. I had a large that is now rather tight now that I'm fat and older, I wore a 42 dress jacket. I paid $250 for my coat back in 1992, they have them for $29.99! If you wear a 36-38 jacket the Medium might be right. The thing has a 20 oz fluid bladder for hydration, a full width cape vent, and the part I like, the sleeves have zipper opening from mid-forearm to mid-bicep for super flow. Even my mesh coat doesn't flow better. Look 'em up on line.
They do the trick in locating engine noises. I found I could locate which two valves on my 550 are slightly out of spec (.001 out). You can hear the tick, but with the stethoscope you can place the probe along the cam cover and find which ones they are. Pretty cool.
I picked up a set for about $10 on ebay. They're about as cheap at Harbor Freight, but when I figured the time to run down and the distance to them it was just as easy to do ebay. I'm about 30 miles from an HF... and Iron Pony is only about 3 miles from them on the way home... talk about "a kid in a candy store" - that's me in both places!
I picked up a 3/4 sleeve MX jersey from there for $2.99! Not the latest and greatest obviously, but good enough to beat around in the woods. They regularly have some killer deals on cut out coats if you can verify the right size.
Right now they have one of the best enduro jackets I've ever seen and owned, the old First Gear Timbuktu. Unfortunately they only have Medium and Small. I had a large that is now rather tight now that I'm fat and older, I wore a 42 dress jacket. I paid $250 for my coat back in 1992, they have them for $29.99! If you wear a 36-38 jacket the Medium might be right. The thing has a 20 oz fluid bladder for hydration, a full width cape vent, and the part I like, the sleeves have zipper opening from mid-forearm to mid-bicep for super flow. Even my mesh coat doesn't flow better. Look 'em up on line.
#8
Man, the Americans get all the good deals! We only get deals on seal blubber and ice.
Good point about the frequency of sound based on whether you are dealing with valves or piston, etc. I didn't think of that but will remember it now.
Good point about the frequency of sound based on whether you are dealing with valves or piston, etc. I didn't think of that but will remember it now.
#9
any intake mods, emission hose mods
I hear slight tick, and air sucking noise
sometimes alot of noises can come from hoses that arent capped off
is the oil fresh, full
not super old and washed out by fuel
I try to change mine around 1000 miles
if I go longer like 2000 miles even though the oil window level shows up between the lines I could be like 500ml low since I measure what I take out and what I put in
or get loud exhaust and not hear anything anymore
I hear slight tick, and air sucking noise
sometimes alot of noises can come from hoses that arent capped off
is the oil fresh, full
not super old and washed out by fuel
I try to change mine around 1000 miles
if I go longer like 2000 miles even though the oil window level shows up between the lines I could be like 500ml low since I measure what I take out and what I put in
or get loud exhaust and not hear anything anymore
#10
I did take off the hoses that lead to the reed valve, but everything is capped off. I will double check to make sure the caps are doing their job.
Other than that, no mods have been done except rejetting the carb.
The oil is indeed fresh.
Thanks for the ideas. I will check those caps.
Other than that, no mods have been done except rejetting the carb.
The oil is indeed fresh.
Thanks for the ideas. I will check those caps.