Amsoil in my KLX

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  #11  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by zomby woof
It's not the clutch that's hard on oil, it's the gears. I also use Rotella, but there are many good quality oils. Just stay away from the energy conserving oils. They can cause clutch slippage problems.
I spent hundreds of dollars on Used Oil Analysis, and this post pretty much sums up what makes the most sense.

It's not worth fretting over on this engine/transmission setup. It's not a high-performance "on the edge" kind of deal. Just get the correct viscosity, and don't leave it in for a long time (1000-2000 miles is plenty long)...even if you choose to spend money on oils labeled as "synthetic".

BTW, "synthetic" is now a marketing term, not a scientific term, ever since Castrol won a lawsuit against Mobil. Since then, MOST oils labeled "synthetic" are actually severely hydrocracked petroleum based oil.

YMMV. OAC. Not FDIC Insured. Caveat Emptor. Your Momma is calling.
 
  #12  
Old 03-17-2012, 02:58 AM
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I run with Rotella 15W-40 dinosaur oil. Change oil every ~1K miles and filter every ~2k miles, so far. Rotella's not too expensive, after all, and is available most anywhere.

Examined stock cylinder/piston at upgrade to BB 351 and no problems due to oil. Continuing with my oil regime going forward...
 
  #13  
Old 03-17-2012, 03:14 AM
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Should I use Pam, butter or Olive Oil (extra virgin, of course) when frying eggs in a cast iron pan? And how about the stainless pan, somthing different?

Oh ya, the bike; Castrol 10-40. That other stuff is too hard to find in the boonies!!
 

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  #14  
Old 03-17-2012, 03:22 AM
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Rotella 15W-40 dino oil here too. I only have 2000 miles on it.

My KLX has horrible downshifts (as in won't downshift sometimes), but different oil/level/hot/cold/old/new hasn't fixed it... so I'm back to Rotella.
 
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Old 03-17-2012, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackheart58

It's not worth fretting over on this engine/transmission setup. It's not a high-performance "on the edge" kind of deal. Just get the correct viscosity, and don't leave it in for a long time (1000-2000 miles is plenty long)...even if you choose to spend money on oils labeled as "synthetic".

BTW, "synthetic" is now a marketing term, not a scientific term, ever since Castrol won a lawsuit against Mobil. Since then, MOST oils labeled "synthetic" are actually severely hydrocracked petroleum based oil.
As a member of the mutual admiration society, I'd have to say that this is the smartest, and most honest post I've read in a long time

It's all true. Synthetic is better, but it really is marketing now. Pretty much anything is fine if you change it frequently.
 
  #16  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ol'klx-er
Should I use Pam, butter or Olive Oil (extra virgin, of course) when frying eggs in a cast iron pan? And how about the stainless pan, somthing different?

Oh ya, the bike; Castrol 10-40. That other stuff is too hard to find in the boonies!!
Bacon fat!
 
  #17  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:37 PM
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(This is all your fault, Mash!!)
 
  #18  
Old 03-17-2012, 01:38 PM
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I run rotella 15/40 in my klx - 11,000 miles and runs perfectly.. the bike is a beast. I run mobile-1 20w50 in my Husaberg... no problems so far.. KLX engine is so reliable its bulletproof
 
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Old 03-17-2012, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by T_i_G_e_R
I run mobile-1 20w50
I see a lot of people saying good things about that oil, but I can only find the cheap, generic mobil 1. Must be a chinese rip off of the real mobile 1.
 
  #20  
Old 03-17-2012, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Lotrat
Rotella 15W-40 dino oil here too. I only have 2000 miles on it.

My KLX has horrible downshifts (as in won't downshift sometimes), but different oil/level/hot/cold/old/new hasn't fixed it... so I'm back to Rotella.
Make sure your shift lever isn't hitting something on your frame/skidplate. It can also be worse if the lever is loose. Something isn't right, and it's not the oil...
 


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