Amsoil in my KLX
#11
It's not worth fretting over on this engine/transmission setup. It's not a high-performance "on the edge" kind of deal. Just get the correct viscosity, and don't leave it in for a long time (1000-2000 miles is plenty long)...even if you choose to spend money on oils labeled as "synthetic".
BTW, "synthetic" is now a marketing term, not a scientific term, ever since Castrol won a lawsuit against Mobil. Since then, MOST oils labeled "synthetic" are actually severely hydrocracked petroleum based oil.
YMMV. OAC. Not FDIC Insured. Caveat Emptor. Your Momma is calling.
#12
I run with Rotella 15W-40 dinosaur oil. Change oil every ~1K miles and filter every ~2k miles, so far. Rotella's not too expensive, after all, and is available most anywhere.
Examined stock cylinder/piston at upgrade to BB 351 and no problems due to oil. Continuing with my oil regime going forward...
Examined stock cylinder/piston at upgrade to BB 351 and no problems due to oil. Continuing with my oil regime going forward...
#13
Bored in the snow
Should I use Pam, butter or Olive Oil (extra virgin, of course) when frying eggs in a cast iron pan? And how about the stainless pan, somthing different?
Oh ya, the bike; Castrol 10-40. That other stuff is too hard to find in the boonies!!
Oh ya, the bike; Castrol 10-40. That other stuff is too hard to find in the boonies!!
Last edited by ol'klx-er; 03-17-2012 at 03:18 AM. Reason: details details
#14
Rotella 15W-40 dino oil here too. I only have 2000 miles on it.
My KLX has horrible downshifts (as in won't downshift sometimes), but different oil/level/hot/cold/old/new hasn't fixed it... so I'm back to Rotella.
My KLX has horrible downshifts (as in won't downshift sometimes), but different oil/level/hot/cold/old/new hasn't fixed it... so I'm back to Rotella.
#15
It's not worth fretting over on this engine/transmission setup. It's not a high-performance "on the edge" kind of deal. Just get the correct viscosity, and don't leave it in for a long time (1000-2000 miles is plenty long)...even if you choose to spend money on oils labeled as "synthetic".
BTW, "synthetic" is now a marketing term, not a scientific term, ever since Castrol won a lawsuit against Mobil. Since then, MOST oils labeled "synthetic" are actually severely hydrocracked petroleum based oil.
It's all true. Synthetic is better, but it really is marketing now. Pretty much anything is fine if you change it frequently.
#16
go natural
Bacon fat!
#19
I see a lot of people saying good things about that oil, but I can only find the cheap, generic mobil 1. Must be a chinese rip off of the real mobile 1.
#20
Make sure your shift lever isn't hitting something on your frame/skidplate. It can also be worse if the lever is loose. Something isn't right, and it's not the oil...