Exactly what Dan said!

 

For both the OEM and the UNI that I presently run with, no issues for installing. Just push the filter/basket down in the air box at an angle with a little bit of force. It'll deform a little during installation but springs right back once down in the box. Just check around with your fingers to verify its seated.

Good idea about the grease/vaseline around the edge of the filter.

 

I have exceptionally large hands and if not for the change in material from the filter body to the sealing edge, I wouldn't be able to feel if the filter was properly installed.

I sat the freshly cleaned filter on top of the airbox and it is much bigger than the hole. The lesson is, force it in there but don't rip the foam.

 

Yeah, it's a bit snug but quite doable. On verifying if the filter contact patch is fully seated on the face of the airbox, once the filter seems in place, I rotate it a bit back and forth before tightening the fastening bolt. I also use this thing I got...can't remember who or from where...that provides a more pliabe surface against the airbox for the foam to snug into that insures better sealing. It stuck right to the metal of the airbox sealing surface.

 

Just a question to add about the filter. How much of the filter oil are you suppose to put on it. Is there too much or too little I should worry about. I think I might not have enough on it but what is the downside to putting maybe too much?

 

I've never greased a filter. If the cage, oil, and foam don't seal, you already have a problem.

The filter fits in the recess at the inlet boot pretty nicely, so it's pretty difficult to get it wrong.

 

I use the bel-ray blue waterproof filter oil. It is extremely tacky and blue so you know when you got complete coverage. I only add oil to the outside by drizzling it all over the filter and then squeezing the filter to distribute. The entire outside of the yellow OEM filter turns green when it's done. That's a light job. If you want to get serious you can keep applying it until the inside is completely green too. In the end, wrap it with paper towels and squeeze any excess out. The only downside to too much is that it restricts flow like a dirty filter. Good filter oil like the bel-ray is super viscous, and tacky. I let it sit overnight before starting the bike.

Are you getting complete outside color change? Are you using plain engine oil?

 

No not motor oil I got the oil made for the foam air filters. Got it from Honda so I think it is just their brand. It is really thick and sticky stuff too. I am using a UNI air filter which is red. I put some oil in a plastic bag and put the filter in it and squished it all around to cover it. I didn't put enough to change the color of the filter though. This oil is a green color. Maybe I should add more?

 

I don't know my color charts well enough to know what shade a red filter should turn with green oil when it's optimally saturated...LOL! But seriously do like Highbeam mentioned and put a decent amount of oil on the filter and squish it around by squeezing and massaging. Then get some paper towels and squeeze and massage the filter until not much of the oil is saturating the paper towels anymore. At that point you'll still have plenty of oil in the filter. Most foam air filter oils these days are based off 2-stroke engine premix oils...thick and sticky in concentrate.

I'm old school and use 30wt motor oil. With a quality filter like a Twin Air, it's more than adequate. The benefit of the thick/sticky filter oil is that it will actually repel water in many cases. I'm not racing anymore, so I don't have to try and get through handlebar high water anymore. I just turn around and go back...LOL! The downside is that it's harder to clean. You just about have to use gasoline or some other serious solvent to break down that oil in the foam. Then you still have to clean the filter with a detergent IMO to get the remaining dirt out that solvents don't affect. Yes, there are cleaners made by the filter companies that do it all in one step, but man that stuff is expensive. And don't take my comments as poo-pooing the thicker foam filter oils. They work great.

 

It sounds like you should try Notoil. It costs more than 30W motor oil (which works fine), but the clean up with soap and water sure is nice.
It's all I use in my bikes.