Adventures 351.0
#51
Great thread. Did you run the 'judder' plate when you redid the clutch plates? I ask because I read somewhere that you can replace the half plate/metal rings with a normal full sized plate. I didn't have the needed parts at the time to try it out.
#52
I just used the two kits, EBC Dirt Racer (for friction plates and metal disks) and Barnett springs. There were a couple rings that were not replaced; one flat and the other conical or angled.
#53
Update:
I took the head into the local dirt bike shop. They noticed that one of the valves was sitting lower than the other. I'll have them inspect the valves & seats, lap the valves, replace valve guide seals, and set valve clearance. Hopefully, we won't need new valves or machining, but now is the time if needed. It's always something...please go away Murphy
I took the head into the local dirt bike shop. They noticed that one of the valves was sitting lower than the other. I'll have them inspect the valves & seats, lap the valves, replace valve guide seals, and set valve clearance. Hopefully, we won't need new valves or machining, but now is the time if needed. It's always something...please go away Murphy
#55
Just picked up my head today from them. They lapped valves, inspected, valve guides, cleaned up, and shimmed to the tall side of spec. Mechanic said the exhaust side was slightly pitted and the guides may have been passing a little oil. The intake side looked nice. Ready to run. Oh ya!
Last edited by IDRIDR; 01-12-2012 at 03:19 AM.
#56
Headlight mount bracket, Clean Head
Putzed around a little last night.
I installed an "L" bracket that holds the X2 headlight up a little higher. It normally would mount to the front fender, at least on '06/07. The later bikes have a different fender. I wanted the light up as high as possible to reduce interference with the fender bag. The bracket isn't new, but now is cleaned up a bit.
The grip heater switch is now simply duct taped to the Vapor computer. Not the long term solution. I have plans for building a better dash to protect the computer and provide room for a couple switches. I feel kinda redneck!
Vapor computer shows max speed from last reset of 70 mph, 7145 on the ODO (within several hundred miles of actual miles), max RPM of 10,160, and max temp of 221 F, which is not correct for coolant temp. As mentioned before, the temp sensor got a little close to the exhaust. I reset it each tank and track miles, run time, etc. 196 miles since last fill up (yes, I love the Acerbis tanker).
Rider's position view (shameless advertising for Tusk).
I recently read a little technique for storing tools, and may try something like it. Direct plagiarism from another post:
"i used an old enduro rider's method of packing sockets that made short order of organizing them & they fit into a much smaller space(if you mentioned this, sorry, i must have been asleep when i read it)
take a 6"-8" 1/4" drive extension & slip common 3/8th" sockets over it, capping the string off w/ a 1/4 - 3/8th" adapter w/ the 10mm x 3/8th" drive socket on the adapter
a sliding "T" handle & you're set
you can even keep an assortment of specialty sockets, like allen heads & screw driver heads in a "royal crown" bag($.50 @ the local flea mkt), complementing your kit
i carried my little socket bundle in the tank bag, along w/ a pair of 5" needle nose vise grips & a 4" crescent, to make periodic adjustments quicker & easier"
ADVrider - View Single Post - '06 KLR650 .. Toxic Green Adventure Bike ..
Found some color-coded sockets at Harbor Freight yesterday and began setting up something similar on a 6-inch extension:
I installed an "L" bracket that holds the X2 headlight up a little higher. It normally would mount to the front fender, at least on '06/07. The later bikes have a different fender. I wanted the light up as high as possible to reduce interference with the fender bag. The bracket isn't new, but now is cleaned up a bit.
The grip heater switch is now simply duct taped to the Vapor computer. Not the long term solution. I have plans for building a better dash to protect the computer and provide room for a couple switches. I feel kinda redneck!
Vapor computer shows max speed from last reset of 70 mph, 7145 on the ODO (within several hundred miles of actual miles), max RPM of 10,160, and max temp of 221 F, which is not correct for coolant temp. As mentioned before, the temp sensor got a little close to the exhaust. I reset it each tank and track miles, run time, etc. 196 miles since last fill up (yes, I love the Acerbis tanker).
Rider's position view (shameless advertising for Tusk).
I recently read a little technique for storing tools, and may try something like it. Direct plagiarism from another post:
"i used an old enduro rider's method of packing sockets that made short order of organizing them & they fit into a much smaller space(if you mentioned this, sorry, i must have been asleep when i read it)
take a 6"-8" 1/4" drive extension & slip common 3/8th" sockets over it, capping the string off w/ a 1/4 - 3/8th" adapter w/ the 10mm x 3/8th" drive socket on the adapter
a sliding "T" handle & you're set
you can even keep an assortment of specialty sockets, like allen heads & screw driver heads in a "royal crown" bag($.50 @ the local flea mkt), complementing your kit
i carried my little socket bundle in the tank bag, along w/ a pair of 5" needle nose vise grips & a 4" crescent, to make periodic adjustments quicker & easier"
ADVrider - View Single Post - '06 KLR650 .. Toxic Green Adventure Bike ..
Found some color-coded sockets at Harbor Freight yesterday and began setting up something similar on a 6-inch extension:
Last edited by IDRIDR; 06-06-2012 at 05:15 AM.
#57
Continued
Clutch plates are now in the correct position. Note the outer friction plate is in the notch.
The head after shop service:
Intake side
Exhaust side
Here's some pics of the Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release (KACR).
Low rpm position, for starting
Causes the "lever" left of the cam lobe to open one of the exhaust valves
In the high-rpm (running) position, the weights swing out to lift the lever so that it does not open the valve.
And last, doing a little modification on the rear fender, removing the "farm boy" extension. Only one teaser pic for now.
/IDRIDR
The head after shop service:
Intake side
Exhaust side
Here's some pics of the Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release (KACR).
Low rpm position, for starting
Causes the "lever" left of the cam lobe to open one of the exhaust valves
In the high-rpm (running) position, the weights swing out to lift the lever so that it does not open the valve.
And last, doing a little modification on the rear fender, removing the "farm boy" extension. Only one teaser pic for now.
/IDRIDR
Last edited by IDRIDR; 01-16-2012 at 05:04 PM.
#58
Looks like you had a good day. I am waiting for my shifter star to show up in the mail. I ordered clutch plates and springs and took my shock in to have it revalved and a new damper adjustment installed.
#59
I wonder if you'll be getting 196 miles to a tank with the 351 kit installed. My mileage certainly dropped - from the low 60s mpg to something less than 50 for spirited riding. Maybe less. But the extra oomph is very nice.
Very nice write up. Good info.
Very nice write up. Good info.
#60
Red:
Looking forward to your posted opinion on the new star.
Guido:
Some others get good mileage with the 351. I plan to spend some quality time on a lonely highway getting the jets sorted out.
Thanks for following along.
Looking forward to your posted opinion on the new star.
Guido:
Some others get good mileage with the 351. I plan to spend some quality time on a lonely highway getting the jets sorted out.
Thanks for following along.