Help!!

According to my owners manual the left and right fork must be set the same (i.e. 8 clicks out). I went to check this the other day. Removed the little rubber plugs and the right side screw adjusted fine, but the left side screw (Clutch side) was very hard to turn and did not click like the right one.

I was going to play with it some more, then take her into the shop.

Should I be concerned about this? Should I try to seat the screw all the way down and then try backing it out for clicks?

Thanks for any insight.

 

I would try anything before taking it in to the dealer's service department.

 

Run them both in clockwise while counting the clicks. Then back them out the same amount. If you're on the heavy side about 4 clicks should be a good start point.

 

When adjusting fork compression damping, do you need to adjust the rebound as well? What about rear spring compression and rebound?

I am probably 210-215lbs with full gear and I'd like to see what some tighter suspension may do for me. Bike was used from a dealer, and I honestly can't trust them that they set the bike back to stock. I'm not sure what stock should feel like, but it's pretty cushy. Kind of like my Crown Vic-it just glides over bumps. I know going tighter would make that worse, but it may help handling.

 

With your weight, I'd turn everything in 2 clicks at a time and the test it. It helps alot especially for stopping nose dive. Rebound is the only one that You may want expert guidance for. This bike really rides like a Cadillac with the stock settings but jumping it requires adjustments. I bet yours is all stock if it feels real cushy.

 

Well the left side does not click on the way out, but i was able to get it fully seated and could feel a slight tension increase at the indents. I went six clicks out on both sides and it was noticeably stiffer (especially in the tight woods trail behind the house). Almost a little skittish. Also noticed less nose dive under hard braking.

I guess we just have to play with it (8 clicks out perhaps for my 175 lbs.) and see what presents the best compromise for mixed conditions.

Still not sure why the left side clicks on the way in but very stiff and no clicks on the way out. Right side is cherry - very positive clicks in both directions and easy to turn.

Thanks for you input.

 

Good topic- I was just wondering about this. I took my MSF class on a Honda Nighthawk with drum front brakes. After getting my endorsement and taking the KLX out, I definitely had a "WTF!" moment the first time my overzealous front brake grabbing made the nose dive.

This weekend, I went out on a 50 mile ride through some twisty canyons. On the way back was a short 2 mile run on 75 MPH highway...that was intense. Maybe tightening up the front will make it feel a bit more solid for those short highway runs.

 

I believe there is 23 clicks worth of settings on the front and rear...

Ive ran mine at max and its still soft...I think I ran everything front and back at 13 clicks...

 

There is only 16 clicks on the compression adjustment, and as for the rebound there is no adjustment all that you do for the rebound is lift the bike so the front tire is in the air and remove the brass screws on top of the fork tubes give them time with the screws out so they have time to equalize with the atmospheric pressure and then replace the screws. this info can be found on page 124 of the owners manual.

ken

 

OOps thats right my 09 is a weebit different.......

I like to adjust mine and drive at night for a final decision....If when Im getting into it and can see my headlight raising and lowering really hard I jack the settings up...I like to keep my forks with in a 3" shifting movement zone.....Too much and it feels like the bike is one solid piece...