Acerbis Rally Pro
#1
Acerbis Rally Pro
So I picked some ProTaper SE (Reed Bend) bars and a set of the Acerbis Rally Pro gurads and mounting kit. I don't know if it's because i have the 08/09 or if is the protapers, but the guards will not fit with the stock levers. It also looks like I might have to use the swivel mounts instead of the normal ones. Has anyone successfully installed these yet on a 09.
Any help would be appreciated? Should I have got the CR proptapers instead or I am just going to need new levers and the swivel mounting kit?
Any help would be appreciated? Should I have got the CR proptapers instead or I am just going to need new levers and the swivel mounting kit?
#2
RE: Acerbis Rally Pro
all I can tell ya is it was a *$#^&^@#$ nightmare with my multiplo racing acerbis's.......all the trouble came from the front brake cylinder and the stupid cross bar.......meh I still made it fit, I had to grind & flip over one of the mounts on the throttle side...
#4
RE: Acerbis Rally Pro
Doh! I bought the Rally Pros and was looking at installing them this weekend. I wonder if there are shorter levers you can buy, I dont like hacksaw method of problem solving I noticed you dont have stock bars, i wonder if the stock bars are easier to mount these on? I will post pics once i get mine mounted (or once i loose my mind getting them mounted)
#6
Fit on '06/07?
I bought some Rally Pros as well and can't for the life of me get them to fit with my stock bars. Fit problems...
LEFT:
-Clutch lever is oh so close such that I'd probably have to cut the ball off which I really don't want to do.
-The inboard mount interferes with the brake line which moves up/down with the suspension, it's in exactly the wrong place.
RIGHT:
-Brake lever interference, worse than the clutch for some reason.
-Brake cyliner interference, but this could easily be fixed by trimming some plastic so this one is not a dealbreaker.
Has anyone successfully installed these on an '06/07? If so pics or comments on how you overcame the above problems would be REALLY appreciated!
LEFT:
-Clutch lever is oh so close such that I'd probably have to cut the ball off which I really don't want to do.
-The inboard mount interferes with the brake line which moves up/down with the suspension, it's in exactly the wrong place.
RIGHT:
-Brake lever interference, worse than the clutch for some reason.
-Brake cyliner interference, but this could easily be fixed by trimming some plastic so this one is not a dealbreaker.
Has anyone successfully installed these on an '06/07? If so pics or comments on how you overcame the above problems would be REALLY appreciated!
Last edited by TrailCruiser; 01-18-2009 at 11:49 PM.
#8
Get some shorty levers for the install. klx300 clutch lever will work, but you have to solder the wires together for the clutch safety so you can start the bike in gear(with the clutch lever pulled in of course). I am not sure if there is a bolt on shorty lever for the brake side yet. I cut about 3/4 of an inch out of the lever and then had the ball welded back on to it.
As far as the master cylinder goes. I had first took a hole saw and cut access for the brake line coming out of the master. It worked ok, but I still couldn't get the hand guard up as high as I would like it. If I rotated the master back so the hand guard could come up the lever was not where I wanted it. I finally made a 1" spacer and put it between the hand guard mount and the hand guard. This allowed me to keep the lever where I wanted it and the guard rotated up a little higher. The aluminum bar of the hand guard now sits right in front of the brake line coming out of the master.
With the shorty levers, I can keep them completly covered inside the guards. I also got the hand guards to fit with cutting 1" off each side of the bars and all the stock electrical controls. It was tight but it does work.
As far as the brake line on the clutch side goes, I had got mine to work with the stock line. I don't remember how, but I think that I may have bent one of the guides to give the line some clearance. I am now running a braided line, so I can't look to how I had done it. It will work though.
As far as the master cylinder goes. I had first took a hole saw and cut access for the brake line coming out of the master. It worked ok, but I still couldn't get the hand guard up as high as I would like it. If I rotated the master back so the hand guard could come up the lever was not where I wanted it. I finally made a 1" spacer and put it between the hand guard mount and the hand guard. This allowed me to keep the lever where I wanted it and the guard rotated up a little higher. The aluminum bar of the hand guard now sits right in front of the brake line coming out of the master.
With the shorty levers, I can keep them completly covered inside the guards. I also got the hand guards to fit with cutting 1" off each side of the bars and all the stock electrical controls. It was tight but it does work.
As far as the brake line on the clutch side goes, I had got mine to work with the stock line. I don't remember how, but I think that I may have bent one of the guides to give the line some clearance. I am now running a braided line, so I can't look to how I had done it. It will work though.
#9
I turned them down (I think) slightly so that the ball on the levers ends up just above the support bar on the guards. Move the inboard mount toward the end of the handlebar as much as you can to give extra clearance to the end of the levers. Add a couple washers on the inboard mount on the right side to give some extra clearance for the brake reservoir and line.
I'll try to take some pics later.
BTW...I plan to cut my levers short in the spring. The only reason for the ball is to keep the lever from going through your hand in a crash. Since I always fly over the handlebars in a crash I don't need em. Besides, the levers are (relatively) cheap, so I can always go back.