Bryan, how bout this for an idea. If you can get your .drf's (DJ data files), I can do a detailed analysis of how your current setup (DJ148/1N+stock spring+drilled slide lift port) is fueling your bike and suggest fixes.. Possible scenario: The top end AFR is ok but the slide is going full open too soon. A remedy would be to discuss possible lift port diameters to slow down that last bit of slide travel as it approaches "full open" against the "well compressed" stock slide spring..

In other words, how bout leaving it as-is..? Of course this is assuming the carb is functioning properly with a well seated diaphragm..

 

If he is riding his bike below 7000, he may not even notice any difference. At WOT and low revs, it still pulls like a pack mule with a stick in its butt. I noticed the lack up top right away. I do a lot of my riding through town which is anywhere from 30mph to 55mph (maybe 65). I like to be able to go 50 and the hit the throttle and have power to spare.


I bought this bike as a cheap keeper bike. I won't be trading it in or selling it when I get a new bike. I plan on running it right into the ground and burying it in my back yard next to grandpa and Foamy, my pet raccoon. I'd like it to have the most power I can squeak out of it. As far as reliability goes, I don't think there is too much to worry about there.

 

I can do that. I'll send the file right to you when I get to the dyno. I'm doing this for proper fueling, but I'm really curious about hp and torque as well. I'd love to see 30 on the chart but I wont get my hopes up.

 

Well, I'm not gonna "jinx" it..lol

I think I can tell, from your dyno butt test, that you already have "superior" power curves over the "normal" setups.. And really, this is to be expected.. But 30hp would be incredible and would mean the CVK, and the 250 ports and valves, can unexpectedly, "well handle" the 351's top end needs.. 30hp would also mean the "normal CVK setups" are likely giving up 5-6hp..

IIRC, 30hp is about what you get with a TM36+Full FMF system+lidless. Add cams for about 32hp. Add porting for about 34hp.. 28hp with TM36+lidless+stock header and performance slipon..

 

I got a chance to put some miles on the bike today. my current setup with the 148 has some serious pitfalls. they are probably caused by the slide being drilled. the bike runs hard in the low range. It pulls really hard in the mid and upper rev range. However, if I am at low rpms and go full throttle in a higher gear, it sputters really hard in a rich condition and really struggles. That tells me that the slide is definitely coming up way too fast. I'm going to try to fill the hole and re-drill. Any suggestions on how big the hole should be? Does the stock slide even have a hole?

 

Yes it has a hole stock. Someone needs to get a 330/351 on the dyno, I am more curious is the 148 is properly fueling WOT. I'm starting to think the little CVK may not be able to properly fuel a 330/351 up top and keep the low/mid range from not overfueling. It may even take a slide hole even SMALLER than stock.

Although if i have to do all that I'm going TM36-68, theyre only $250 on amazon.

 

Been to the first and a few other Blackwater 100s. I'll pass on pumping water out of the engine. Just never has looked like a lot of fun. Plus all it takes is enough water in the carb to feed directly to the main jet, I'm sure you know why. So for what I plan to do I'm not gonna do it.

Really though, has anyone done a dyno run with the lid? With the KDX200 snorkel? Speculate all you want, numbers won't. I know lots of guys who swear their header added a bunch of power, but then you see some media review that pretty much shoots it in the butt when actually put to the test. I will say if it wasn't for seeing how much fun it is with a flooded engine I'd go without the lid or maybe pop out the snorkel and run it with the opening. On the 650 the intake roar was so bad without the lid I rode a block, turned around and stuck it back on.

 

I would also like to see a dyno with snorkel. I'm a snorkel guy myself.

It's not the water to be worried about it's the sand and rocks that flow in with it.

 

I can't speak for any dyno data, but my brother in law has the same exact bike as me. It had the same tires with the same pressure. We are about the same size. Same dynojet kit. He had the lid on his air box, I didn't. He didn't have a snorkel in. Our bikes ran about the same below 50mph. After that, I walked away from him time and time again. That night, we removed his lid and the next day our bikes were twins. We ran neck and neck in every scenario. Dyno data is one thing, but side by side comparisons will won every time. He didn't get a 351 kit, so it seems that the fair comparisons are done.

 

I wish that I had the cash to do several dyno tests, but I have a baby at home and we're saving to expand and remodel our kitchen. My goal is to get my bike where it pulls the hardest in the most areas of the power band. Then I'm going to take it to the dyno and make sure I'm not way off. After that, ill make minor adjustments and do what I bought the bike to do. Ride the snot out of it. If I wanted a performance dual sport, I'd make a ktm 300xc-w comfortable. It makes more sense than dropping too much money on a klx that will never really be that fast. I'm happy so far. After all is said and done, my bike has $3300 into it. That includes everything. Even the 2 sets of tires. That's the benefit of the klx!