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Hey Chis - can I call you Chris?- Don't listen to that KLXsuckster.. He's such a party pooper ! I bet he's off his meds..lol
I gotcha covered.. Lets get that SF rolling better..
- Go get a full performance exhaust system ( FMF, Four Strokes Works, or best - Bill Blues' Barker system) - Yeah, it's gonna be loud, but "dems da breaks"..
- Now go get a DJ 2206 kit and call DJ for an extra jet ( DJ144 if you are near sea level, DJ142 for alts that are never below 3K ASL, DJ140 for never below 5k)
- Now go get a Kawasaki #40 pilot jet (N424-25-#40 part no 92064-1108) and a Kawasaki replacement stock slide spring for you CVK .
Throw away the instructions for the 2206 kit, in fact, get the needle, needle clip, and needle washers outta it and throw away everything else - you're buying the kit just for those components as DJ won't sell em separately..
Set up the carb with the "Dyno tuning ... FMF System" recipe below, set the fuel screw to 2 turns out on that #40 pilot jet, pull off the airbox lid and put it in the attic, bolt on the exhaust system and....
Enjoy keepin up with the Jones ( waay better than before)..
Yeah, some of us read stuff that ain't there..lol
I didn't know what riding scenario(s) you were referring to, but once researched, it really doesn't matter. On road/off road , the DRZ makes power we simply cannot match
Nice to know you are faster on in the "rough stuff"..
You will never be able to keep up with your friends Stage 1 DRZ in a WOT acceleration from 45 - 65 MPH - regardless of what you do to your KLX.. However, with $2000 invested into a full tilt 351, he will not be able to "run off and hide" from you. Add the cost of porting to your combo, and he will pull away even slower..
I have no idea what "better able to PACE ride" means to you - but I would suspect any power increase would help in this regard.. A lidless airbox, proper CVK (or TM36-68) setup, and full exhaust system will be mandatory regardless of whether you use a BB kit or not as "pavement pace riding" requires maximizing the upper 1/2 of the power band..
Again, sorry.. The numbers (for the possibilities) just don't add up.. You will - and I suspect can - accept the deficit at some point in your performance modding..
P.S. A (~$500) 24 hp lidless mod combo has top speeds over 100 mph - a stock DRZSM can apparently only do low 90"s...
I hear what you’re saying and I appreciate your feedback. I guess all I really wanted to be told was “Yeah man, you won’t have to downshift twice anymore to keep up with his half throttle on speed limit increases.”
I dont want to be faster. If I did I would have bought the same bike or one of the several larger CC’s. I use that bike as a benchmark because that’s what I ride with.
I know what you want to hear and what you need to do to get you where you wanna be... That "other" Klxster really suk's sometimes.. Looky up..! What I am telling you gets more HP than bolting on the 351 kit to a stock bike and is the "place to start" with KLX performance upgrades - best bang for the buck as well.
Oh, and - Hey man, you won't have to downshift twice to keep up with his half throttle accels anymore..!
Wouldn't hurt to also throw a 45 tooth rear sprocket on. Would tighten up the spacing between gears slightly and still I would guess have enough top speed to keep up with the DRZ.
I know what you want to hear and what you need to do to get you where you wanna be... That "other" Klxster really suk's sometimes.. Looky up..! What I am telling you gets more HP than bolting on the 351 kit to a stock bike and is the "place to start" with KLX performance upgrades - best bang for the buck as well.
Oh, and - Hey man, you won't have to downshift twice to keep up with his half throttle accels anymore..!
ive been taking notes. I appreciate it. All I have done to my bike is a full yosh exhaust. Also a dyno stage II jet kit because after I installed the exhaust she started running real lean on me.
Everyone tells me to give up on her and to bigger but I can’t. She’s mine.
Well then.. Your first step it to maximize your current setup. Get the DJ144 or K158 main jet, the #40 pilot jet, and make sure you have the (or a) stock slide spring. Do-up the carb correctly, pull the airbox lid, and enjoy a significant power increase above 6000 rpm.. Not only more power, she'll pull hard to the 10,500 rpm redline with this setup.. You'll probably be happy with this.. If not, add the MCM (Marcelino Cam Mod) for a significant boost in power, idle - 7000 rpm, and best overall 250 power curves possible. You should be happy with this - everyone running this recipe is..
Add the 351 to this setup later, and with only a main jet change, get a HUGE power gain ( approx 26.5 hp / 21 lb ft TRQ) - You'll need to be happy with this setup..
To the above, add the TM36-68 and, once again, get a totally different bike - pumper carb responses and approx 28hp / 23 lb ft TRQ - Be happy with this or face loosing the costs of the upgrades on a sale in order to buy another bike..
My opinion is that if your current setup, once maximized, does not come close to making you happy, you are going to have to weigh the costs of the 351 + TM36-68 over selling and getting a good used KTM EXC or similar..
..
No. You are using the DJ kit pretty far outside it's capabilities as designed. Unfortunately the DJ2152/2206 kit will run bikes like yours well enough to "get the job done" - hiding the fact that much more power is available if the CVK is done-up properly for lidless running..Lidless running requires a totally different CVK setup from what you have now - pull your lid now, while improperly set up, and see for yourself.. But just briefly, you'll be running extremely lean above 5500 rpm..
No. You are using the DJ kit pretty far outside it's capabilities as designed. Unfortunately the DJ2152/2206 kit will run bikes like yours well enough to "get the job done" - hiding the fact that much more power is available if the CVK is done-up properly for lidless running..Lidless running requires a totally different CVK setup from what you have now - pull your lid now, while improperly set up, and see for yourself.. But just briefly, you'll be running extremely lean above 5500 rpm..
So before I call Bill and ask for the 351, he also sells a pumper carb. I’ll be completely honest, when it comes to carburetors I’m completely ignorant. I know altitude matters (I live in Kansas) is that a better option? And if so would all those other carb parts be usable? Or is what you suggested just for the stock carb?
Im trying to be more savvy working on my own bike instead of paying a shop to do it. So if my question becoming annoying feel free to cut me off.
Ok, without carb and tuning knowledge, you have two choices after installing a 351.
1. Accept "canned" performance.
A). This is performance from Bill's carb and Bill's carb setup.
B). This is using the TM36-68 carb and a setup from our empirical database of known "good working" configurations.
2. Become a "Tuner" in order to achieve Max performance with a lidless airbox - which, from empirical data, will be far higher power levels than choice 1.
A). Using the stock CVK, I can "get you there" without the need for extensive dyno testing.
B). Using the TM36-68, you'll start out with known working setups - dyno test, tweak, repeat - until your fueling curve is correct for max performance.
There is no dyno proven/verified recipe for max performance with either pumper carb - lidless or not..
Bill's little pumper carb cannot offer the power levels of the TM36-68 BUT may offer a little increase over the stock CVK on your bike.
IMO, Bill's little carb is more perfectly suited for 351's running the stock header - which runs outta breath (kills power) after 7000 rpm on a 250, sooner on a 351..
Bill does not run or tune anything with a lidless airbox - Last conversation I had with him, he had not noticed that I created/documented a lidless recipe for the CVK that makes 24 hp KLX250's ..
04-25-2018 | 07:56 PM
