Timing is easy if you look at the pic I posted. Make sure when at TDC the IN and EX marks on the cam are level with the head. Count 32 rivets on the chain, and make sure the 32'nd rivet lines up on the mark on the other cam..

See what I mean? You'll get it, no sweat.

 

Easy to some, but someone will screw it up.

 

Study/mark everything carefully BEFORE taking it apart.

 

Position the wrist pin circlips @ the 12:00 or 6:00 position. Put one in when the piston is on the work bench--automatically decreases the chance of one falling into the engine case by 50%.

 

Army, i hope you indexed the rings to the proper position prior to putting it in the cylinder.
An easier way is to use a large hose clamp from the hardware store and slightly snug it down over the rings using lots of oil.holding the cylinder square over the piston and gently lowering it, will slide the hose clamp down and off the rings as they are compressed and slip into the cylinder.
The wrist pin should be a good tight slip fit into the piston as well as the connecting rod.
Not a press fit, not sloppy, just a good tight slip fit. if you can easily rock the piston back and forth, as well as slide it side to side on the pin, you are good.
if you were able to push it in by hand ( a strong hand) you are ok. once you have it all assembled, minus the valve cover, get out your wrench and turn it over slowly by hand with the spark plug out.
go at least four full revolutions, and check the timing marks again prior to putting the valve cover back on. remember to go counter clockwise so that you have tension on the cam chain pulling down to the front of the crank gear.

 

normal!!!

 

Army, email from Bill Blue :
"Hello Gary,

What ever jets you have in the bike before the kit was installed go up one jet size larger on the pilot & two jet sizes larger on the main.

Thanks
Bill "
BTW, change your SIG to "installed"

 

Gary, thanks, I did index the rings before I installed the piston. I called BB just prior to installing the rings and he told me how to do it. Thanks for the info on the carb. I can't wait to finish this up. I picked up a torque wrench tonight so I can get the head bolts tightened. I read Larry's post on the timing, plus I went through the manual and it seems pretty straightforward. I also bought a set of feeler guages so I can check valve clearance as long as I'm in there. I'm hoping to have some time to work on it on Wednesday. I also ordered some fuel line from RMATV so I can do the carb breather mod at the same time. Last summer I got stuck in a couple of deep water crossings and I don't want it to happen again... Thanks again

 

Good pics and write up .... be sure to follow up with the final results.

Oh, on your tdc mark pic ..... make sure everyone knows that when you hit that mark you are either tdc or 180 degrees out...but I bet most that would do this know that.

 

Great writeup with just the right amount of info.
Thanks