Does closed loop auto-adjustment affect the open-loop fuel map?

 

The closed cycle of the injector actually does not have a working fuel map - the fuel is considered literally under the current conditions. In some cases, the target ARF/RPM is graph exist, but this is a very different thing.
The open loop is used in non-standard cases:
Engine starting.
From idle to about 2300 rpm - the catalyst is heated by exhaust gas afterburning through PAIR and the O2 sensor always shows a lean mixture.
Failure of secondary sensors as emergency situation (FI light on), when usually the engine goes to work on the crankshaft / camshaft position sensor, intake vacuum and temperature (or MAP) and the fuel map to "get to the nearest service".

As a result, it makes no sense to change fuel map of the closed cycle with the work data from the open - they either do not intersect in the work or it is important to have independent "reference" data.

The injectors are used on road bikes on a lean mixture due to fuel efficiency. Simply replacing the injector does not lead to the desired results on a closed operation algorithm (it's compensate changes). From this, all sorts of Jukebox appeared (Powercommnder, EJK and so on), which work perfectly to simple rich mixture within and the capabilities of the native nozzle are still enough (although this also has its own problems). Whis is why replacing the nozzle in a massively unknown modification.

 

Thanks for that. I theorized that maybe whatever compensation is applied to closed loop can be used to shift the map of the open loop. You start the bike cold at 12,000ft above sea. It starts rich, warms up, O2 senses rich mixture, ECU reduces fueling. Whatever the % reduction in fueling is calculated there could then be used to shift the whole fuel map for open loop in the same direction (toward lean, in this case) until the engine shuts off.

Right. But for the big bore, it seems like an easier solution than a fuel tuner.
But for the stock piston, I don't know, if just opening intake and exhaust increases air enough to utilize a larger injector at standard cycle values. If the above scenario with fuel map adjustment doesn't occur for the open loop, you would still get the benefit of a larger injector, right? If there was an injector that only increased flow by 10% or so, it would be a good match for the uncorked bike with stock ECU. Am I wrong?

 

Altitude and temperature measured by group of "main" sensors (vacuum and incoming air temperature sensor, or MAP) and give a correction for open and closed cycles. Without them and the camshaft position sensor (at least), the motor simply will not start.

Main problem with startup and low rpm - EFI don't know how many fuel burned in fact, so it can't compensate and work on stock fuel map. It works only at start closed loop.

Without buying EJK-250cc on with KLX with a little tuning, a variable resistor will help. The air temperature sensor works simply - colder air, then more sensor rezistance, EFI think that more the engine will suck it in, which means the more fuel the injector need. So extra resistance -> more fuel at low rpm and startup. You can read more about the principle by searching for "Xt660 Kev fuel mod".

The difference between the native and the Suzuki nozzle is 22%. Need incrase to same 22% air to engine to make same mixture as original. Open lid will not give to much, so i think only will work "save" at fully tunned klx (high perfomance exhaust, air filter, open lid).

P.S. In don't know about same type injector with 10% increase. Next to stock 220cc/min is 260cc/min (+18%). Yes, 240cc injector will work good in 250cc as i think.

 

I'm just going to pop in here and make a comment. I don't have FI, but if your messing with this, I just wanted to clarify a statement 640 made.
When temp drops, the resistance of wire decreases, not increases. I don't really know how the temp sensor works, but if it's just wire, the resistance will go down on temp drop.

 

From EFI serivice maniual "FUEL SYSTEM (DFI) 3-53"

 

OK, looks like your on top of it. They must have some type of modulator inside that thing and not just running on wire resistance.

 

It's just NTC thermistor inside. This solution is typical and quite simple.

 

Hi,

My working setup for first 1000 km
2009- European OE ECU
292cc AHL
Suzuki injector 270cc like on other posts - look at eby or alixprs.. less than € 25,-
EFI body first plate removed
KDX snorkel
OE - Exhaust
O2- in use

Runs smooth, good throttle control
Have to check color of spark plug by time.