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the decel pop as we call it is actually the momentary rich condition that occurred from the throttle being instantaneously close under load. that extra Graf fuel makes its way through the exhaust stream out to the cat and usually ignites downstream and that’s when you hear the pop which usually becomes more noticeable when you remove the stock catalytic converter and add a high free-flowing exhaust or there’s virtually no restriction to it so it’s mainly a combination of stock muffler, packing material silencing the pop and the unburnt fuel making its way down the exhaust stream and being super heated to the point of ignition. And if you listen for it you can hear pops with the stock muffler but they’re very quiet and sound like quite farts.
And a tuner does as you said finely tune the load cells of the map which can crispen the power curve. But honestly the true benefit comes from a dyno where you can actually monitor the AFR’s.
I have done the snorkel so far eventually I’m going to do an exhaust once the factory warranty expires. And then once I can get it in a dyno I’m going to have it tune to perfection or as close to it as possible, but in the mean time I will run the snorkel and exhaust without a tuner until I can get a round to it. F.Y.I. I don’t plan on removing the sun throttle.
Yes, I'm planning on getting the engine dyno tuned so they can get it dialed in even better, even though the EJK factory settings for inrake and exhaust mods work great.
Removing the secondary throttle plate is a real game changer. It completely eliminates the characteristic "dip" in the power curve at 7,000 rpms.
I'm running a KLX snorkel with a Megabomb chambered header and a stubby tuneable slip on so I think a dyno tune will help.
the decel pop as we call it is actually the momentary rich condition that occurred from the throttle being instantaneously close under load. that extra Graf fuel makes its way through the exhaust stream out to the cat and usually ignites downstream and that’s when you hear the pop which usually becomes more noticeable when you remove the stock catalytic converter and add a high free-flowing exhaust or there’s virtually no restriction to it so it’s mainly a combination of stock muffler, packing material silencing the pop and the unburnt fuel making its way down the exhaust stream and being super heated to the point of ignition. And if you listen for it you can hear pops with the stock muffler but they’re very quiet and sound like quite farts.
And a tuner does as you said finely tune the load cells of the map which can crispen the power curve. But honestly the true benefit comes from a dyno where you can actually monitor the AFR’s.
I have done the snorkel so far eventually I’m going to do an exhaust once the factory warranty expires. And then once I can get it in a dyno I’m going to have it tune to perfection or as close to it as possible, but in the mean time I will run the snorkel and exhaust without a tuner until I can get a round to it. F.Y.I. I don’t plan on removing the sun throttle.
Mikuni had comments on the crackle on deceleration, pointing out exactly what you said, but adding the fact that, with a carbureted engine, it will happen with correct jetting. It is the way it is. Making the idle jet richer than needed can take away the crackle, but then really the jetting at idle is too rich. So based on Mikuni's own words I have no problem with the engine crackle. Kind of proving the point is that I could stop the crackle by slightly cracking the throttle open. But since it has no negative effect on the engine I have no concerns with it. Funny part I've mentioned before, when researching the topic of crackle on deceleration I found that there were threads in forums like the Corvette forums where the owners were asking how to get the crackle in their cars on deceleration, not how to get rid of it. They saw the cars at the track crackling and shooting some flames when decelerating into turns, I saw the same with Ducati superbikes years ago at Mid Ohio, and they wanted their cars to do that!
I think with EFI the ability to cut fuel feed at certain rpm (aka not below a certain level so the engine doesn't stall) to stop the crackle. But sometimes that can cause snatchy throttle application at those rpm. I can actually feel the EFI is off when engine braking in my Ranger in the top three gears. It just shuts off until about 2000 rpm then will turn on the fuel again and it is noticeable seat of the pants. My XSR has a similar sort of feel, but I think the newer EFI systems makes it a smoother transition. With a closed throttle in upper gears the bike just plain shuts off, with strong deceleration.
Yes, I'm planning on getting the engine dyno tuned so they can get it dialed in even better, even though the EJK factory settings for inrake and exhaust mods work great.
Removing the secondary throttle plate is a real game changer. It completely eliminates the characteristic "dip" in the power curve at 7,000 rpms.
I'm running a KLX snorkel with a Megabomb chambered header and a stubby tuneable slip on so I think a dyno tune will help.
im curious what has your experience been removing the sub throttle? I have heard that the throttle can become snappy as far as getting on and off, and that removing it makes the bike somewhat jerky getting on and off of the gas. I noticed your super moto? I’m dual sport and there are technical situations encounter sometimes on slower trail riding where having a twitchy throttle can be problematic. I know that Kawi most likely used the system to generate “port velocity” at lower engine speeds and to promote low speed torque. But I’m curious what your experience has been on the road? Have you ever been caught in the rain and found your ability to gingerly control throttle in the wet roads challenging after removing it. Because the way I see it the most not real benefits to removing the sub throttle is full throttle power at the sake more linear power delivery at low engine speeds which I can appreciate during technical trail riding or hill climb.
im curious what has your experience been removing the sub throttle? I have heard that the throttle can become snappy as far as getting on and off, and that removing it makes the bike somewhat jerky getting on and off of the gas. I noticed your super moto? I’m dual sport and there are technical situations encounter sometimes on slower trail riding where having a twitchy throttle can be problematic. I know that Kawi most likely used the system to generate “port velocity” at lower engine speeds and to promote low speed torque. But I’m curious what your experience has been on the road? Have you ever been caught in the rain and found your ability to gingerly control throttle in the wet roads challenging after removing it. Because the way I see it the most not real benefits to removing the sub throttle is full throttle power at the sake more linear power delivery at low engine speeds which I can appreciate during technical trail riding or hill climb.
I had 00’ Honda civic. Way back in my 20’s and I used to get decel pop that became obvious when i had installed a free flowing exhaust. I also had a wide band AFR gauge and I could see it occur on my gauge. I also discovers that after closing the throttle I could silence the pop if I lightly pressed the gas pedal during shifts. I was essentially adding a little shot of air into the exhaust stream by doing this. This is basically what Kawasaki did when they added the pair valve in that it momentarily injects air from the airbox into the exhaust stream to lean out the extra fuel in the exhaust when we have the stock mufflers on there but when you remove the stock mufflers with all the back pressure there to slow things down being gone when we put a higher flowing exhaust on there things are moving a little faster than the system can respond to. So doing the pair valve delete after installing a free flowing exhaust typically eliminates the decel pop.
im curious what has your experience been removing the sub throttle? I have heard that the throttle can become snappy as far as getting on and off, and that removing it makes the bike somewhat jerky getting on and off of the gas. I noticed your super moto? I’m dual sport and there are technical situations encounter sometimes on slower trail riding where having a twitchy throttle can be problematic. I know that Kawi most likely used the system to generate “port velocity” at lower engine speeds and to promote low speed torque. But I’m curious what your experience has been on the road? Have you ever been caught in the rain and found your ability to gingerly control throttle in the wet roads challenging after removing it. Because the way I see it the most not real benefits to removing the sub throttle is full throttle power at the sake more linear power delivery at low engine speeds which I can appreciate during technical trail riding or hill climb.
It works totally fine for me.
While I don't do any dirt riding, I do use my bike in my work loaded with tools crawling up and down steep mountain roads in fist gear.
Removing the ECU controlled primary throttle plate spring allows the engine revs to instantly drop when the throttle is closed for more engine braking and quicker smoother shifitng. This increased engine control is a great help when descending mountain roads.
Has anyone removed their backfire screen in their air box? Did you notice any improvement. I’m not totally convinced it’s worth the risk of having a backfire and potentially catching my bike on fire
While I don't do any dirt riding, I do use my bike in my work loaded with tools crawling up and down steep mountain roads in fist gear.
Removing the ECU controlled primary throttle plate spring allows the engine revs to instantly drop when the throttle is closed for more engine braking and quicker smoother shifitng. This increased engine control is a great help when descending mountain roads.
I shift up and down without the clutch quite of have you learned how to do this? It’s really just a simple flick of the wrist at timing the shift
Folks, please NEVER forget the BASIC FACTS ( proven via dyno charts ) regarding the KLX300 :
1. The KLX300 is ARTIFICIALLY DETUNED via the secondary throttle valve.
2. The stock fueling scheme ( programming ) is set up to work with the detune.
3. Therefore, removing the secondary throttle valve/plate will :
Radically increase upper RPM volumetric efficiency ( "Moar aer gets a flowin" )
Require a tuner ( PCFC or EJK ) to properly "refuel" the engine for this increased VE.
Nothing "good" is possible (performance-wise) until this detune is removed , and should be the FIRST MOD to a stock bike - both in terms of most "band for the buck" and to set the stage properly for further enhancements.
Folks, please NEVER forget the BASIC FACTS ( proven via dyno charts ) regarding the KLX300 :
1. The KLX300 is ARTIFICIALLY DETUNED via the secondary throttle valve.
2. The stock fueling scheme ( programming ) is set up to work with the detune.
3. Therefore, removing the secondary throttle valve/plate will :
Radically increase upper RPM volumetric efficiency ( "Moar aer gets a flowin" )
Require a tuner ( PCFC or EJK ) to properly "refuel" the engine for this increased VE.
Nothing "good" is possible (performance-wise) until this is detune is removed , and should be the FIRST MOD to a stock bike - both in terms of most "band for the buck" and to set the stage properly for further enhancements.
07-31-2023, 05:13 AM
