I have a brand new 2022 KLR 300 and I need guidance to best uncork and get the best performance. What slip on would you recommend and do I need to remap the software and open the air box? Any links you could share would also help. I have never done this, so you got a newbie here. Big thanks in advance for your help.

 

There will be other opinions in this thread that run contrary to mine, but this is my perspective.

These bikes are not quick. They are not quick in stock form, and they are less slow but still not quick when modded. Careful about how much money you could sink into this thing to still end up with an objectively slow bike.

Best bang for your buck is swapping the stock front sprocket for one that's one tooth smaller. This will noticeably improve acceleration and only costs about $25 if you can do it yourself or have a friend help. Even the labor having it done at a shop would still make it a good value, most likely, although I don't know what labor rates are like in your area. Sunstar is the go-to brand.

Slip-on will sound cool and but won't make a real performance impact.

You can find threads on this forum about dyno tuning and gaining a couple (literally, a couple) horsepower through re-mapping, but honestly, spending the money on dyno tuning a bike that only makes 20-something horsepower is a waste in my opinion. Like I said, others will disagree.

What else have you owned/ridden?

 

Not a whole lot of peak to be gained, but best bang for the buck is the secondary throttle plate removal with a remap for that. It is worth about 4 to 5 HP in the 5500 to 7000 rpm range, no real peak gain. That midrange made a noticeable difference for trail riding. For whatever reason Kawasaki has the secondary throttle 50% open until 7000 rpm, then it opens at linear rate to full open at 9000 rpm on the fuel injected 300. I also put on a KDX snorkel and a Delkavic muffler, I don't think you get a lot from those mods (maybe 1 HP peak), but the exhaust cuts 5lbs off the bike. I also went to a 14 - 46 sprocket combo, which made the bike better for trail riding, which is what I mostly did with it. Personally, I did not spend time worrying about peak, but I am glad for what I picked up in the midrange.

 

Without all the subjective nonsense about what mods do what for power, it is simple to have a newer KLX300 put out all it can - and this is what this owner wants.

Buy a loud slipon, and a Dynojet PCFC

install the slipon, install the PCFC, remove the secondary throttle plate, drive slowly to the best local Dyno shop.
Remove the airbox lid once at the Dyno Shop - have them refuel the bike to 12.8 : 1 for WOT operations and whatever they choose for fueling part throttle operations.

Done

Any owner not happy with the improved power delivery will need to buy a bigger bike.

 

I will make no judgement about any performance gains, but this is what I did to my 2023 Camo KLX300:

KDX 200 Snorkel - https://www.ebay.com/itm/224826277747
FMF Mega Bomb Header - https://www.denniskirk.com/fmf/stain...prd/437943.sku
Delkevic 14" Slip-On - https://delkevic.com/stubby-14-stain...00R-2020-2022/
EJK Tuner (with default settings) - https://www.electronicjetkit.com/Dir...number=9310209
Secondary Throttle Plate and Spring mod - details in the forums somewhere

I spent a total of $825 on these 5 things. I didn't dyno before or after, but it runs great, and I like it, and I really enjoy modding my bikes. YMMV.

Cheers
dankly

 

danklyrides
Try this:
Yank off the airbox lid.
Reset the EJK for :


Then reset Yellow to 2.5 and Red to 1.5

 

Big Thank you for the information.

 

Hi everyone, I just wanted to share a couple thoughts about the bolt on debates that seem to plaque the KLX300. I have seen the KLX dyno in stock trim and under full load they’re tuned incredibly rich. In fact I don’t remember the form that I read this on, but there was a guy who had one and took it out riding and went through some mud I guess deep mud I’m assuming rode the bike home and he started having engine issues. Long story short it ended up being repaired under warranty, because, the technician said that his bike was running so rich that he had so much carbon buildup. It actually been one of his valves and had to be repaired. I then compared that story with a dyno that I saw on YouTube of this bike in stock trim and it was running AFR‘s in the high 11s in stock trim , the bike is in closed loop in anything under 50% throttle or under 6000 RPMs it’s monitoring the exhaust stream anything above that and it goes full tilt to the Rich side regardless of what the O2 is telling it. Now I have tune, vehicles, turbocharged, etc. and I can say from that particular experience that unless we are actually increasing the volume of the cylinder or of the intake, exhaust chambers, i.e. two valve work opening, intake, runners, etc. we are not actually changing anything beyond which the computer is going to compensate for because it is programmed with maps that Run the engine based on its volume metric size, therefore, adding things like a snorkel or a free-flowing exhaust are not adding any more air than what the physical limitations of the engine can actually take in. It’s the equivalent of blowing through a straw, essentially, unless you have a bigger straw you’re not going to increase the volume. All that we are doing when we add things like a snorkel and exhaust as we are basically improving the efficiency at which the engine can intake and expel air and exhaust so we will pick up some efficiency but we’re not going to be making monsters power games, because we are not actually adding anything beyond which the engine is capable of taking in now where the tutors come in is that they can actually compensate for the particular rpm ranges where the engine is putting the fuel in so another words because the air is moving faster through the engine and more effectively. You can fine-tune the engines, power band if you will or range at which it’s able to benefit from the fast moving air for example at lower or higher RPMs, you can trim the fuel in those higher and lower points to gain maximum effective range of horsepower from the engine.

I hope I communicated all of that well enough for people to understand. Long story short a snorkel and exhaust are not gonna lean out or blow up our motors. for example, if anybody ever had a car that they added an intake and exhaust onto, I’m willing to bet that nobody managed to blow up their motor because it was to lean the same applies to a fuel injected motor cycle. The ECU is going to be able to compensate for the efficiency of the intake exhaust charge, because you’re not actually adding any additional displacement to the engine through those bolt ons. If people are interested, I will find the YouTube videos that show the dyno I have this bike in stock trim and you can see for yourself how rich they run also one more thing if you happen to noticed black city splatter from your tailpipe then that’s a pretty good indication that your bike is running rich and you’re actually blasting out carbon, which is the result of an accumulation of fuel in the cylinder hat is being blown out under load

 

Welcome to the forum.

That's a fabulous first post, and I read it aith great interest. I've been running my KLX300 with exhaust and intake mods and the stock O2 sensor for thousands of miles with no problems.

I just installed an EJK tuner today. It was already set for intake and exhaust mods so I didn't change it. Just now took the first test ride and found it takes noticably less throttle input to accelerate and to maintain the same speed. The engine is perceptively more responsive.

There was a big difference in deceleration. My bike used to pop a fair amount on decel, and now there are absolutely NO POPS, not even ONE.

I like the little tuner.
It's simple to install and works just fine. I have another exhaust I want to test out which has no bung for an O2 sensor. So that's the reason I got an EJK.

 

the decel pop as we call it is actually the momentary rich condition that occurred from the throttle being instantaneously close under load. that extra Graf fuel makes its way through the exhaust stream out to the cat and usually ignites downstream and that’s when you hear the pop which usually becomes more noticeable when you remove the stock catalytic converter and add a high free-flowing exhaust or there’s virtually no restriction to it so it’s mainly a combination of stock muffler, packing material silencing the pop and the unburnt fuel making its way down the exhaust stream and being super heated to the point of ignition. And if you listen for it you can hear pops with the stock muffler but they’re very quiet and sound like quite farts.

And a tuner does as you said finely tune the load cells of the map which can crispen the power curve. But honestly the true benefit comes from a dyno where you can actually monitor the AFR’s.

I have done the snorkel so far eventually I’m going to do an exhaust once the factory warranty expires. And then once I can get it in a dyno I’m going to have it tune to perfection or as close to it as possible, but in the mean time I will run the snorkel and exhaust without a tuner until I can get a round to it. F.Y.I. I don’t plan on removing the sub throttle.