New to the forum. Thought I’d introduce myself, ask a question, and post a pic of my new bike.

I’ve been riding dirt bikes since I was a kid. Never great at it but always enjoyed it. I’ve had a KDX200 for the past 5 years that didn’t get much ride time. I started a small restore on it and amongst that it hit me that I would like a dual sport for some light road riding. Did some research and settled on a KLX. Today was my first real ride on some local trails and it sure did reaffirm I made the right choice. I had a CRF450X a few years ago and it really turned me away from 4-strokes. This little 250 is perfect for my style of riding, just putting around the woods. Much easier to ride than the bigger bore bike to me. EFI and Estart are great for someone who’s never had them. Weight seems distributed nicely.

On to my questions. Are there any changes for the 2020 models? Only thing I’ve seen is the graphics. I’m curious if anything is different on the suspension? I was expecting an over plush suspension today, and was surprised that the rear seemed alright but the front is going to need some tuning for me. I felt like I never could compress the forks. I can’t tell how much of my hands hurting is me just getting back into it or the suspension settings.

So far, I think the EFI is awesome, but I have a strange issue. After riding for a while, I’ll kill the engine and take a break. When I crank back up after 5 mins, it doesn’t want to stay running. The idle will be low 750 - 1250 rpms and dies a few times. Once I get going, it runs great. I can really lug it and keep it running with no issues. Just that one particular situation where the EFI seems to struggle. Normal idle seems to run 1000 - 1500 and I don’t have any issues with it. Any suggestions? This a common problem?

If you made it this far, thanks for reading! I’m open to any suggestions for a new rider on a new KLX. I’m not looking to put any money in to the bike right now. Just little things like bark busters, foot pegs, small luggage rack, etc.

I think the mud looks great on the black. If you can’t tell, I laid it over on the left side in a couple mud holes today. It was that thick mud you just sink in. One was my fault for a bad line. The other was unavoidable for me 😅. Side by sides seem to be ruining the trails these days, but on the other hand they help fund the off-road scene these days, too.

 

Blasting through trees, strong handguards are your friend!
I would run a can of gas/cleaner through a tank of gas for you EFI issue, did you buy it used and had it set a long while?

 

Bought it brand new just a week ago.

 

Welcome to KLX ownership! Looks like you are breaking it in properly!
You might want to talk to the dealer you bought it from as it will be under warranty and should not have any issues.

 

You are in luck - one of the biggest changes (increases) to your bikes' performance does not cost a thing and is invisible to dealerships - the MCM (Marcelino Cam Mod - which is retiming both intake and exhaust cams) .......
A few hours' work and a "lifetime" of mopowah..

 

A couple more questions,

What’s your opinion on buying a Kawa service manual versus the Cyclepedia one? I’m new to 4 stroke maintenance, but I’m fairly mechanically inclined.

Is there any talk about a programmable ECU for these bikes, since the revamp for the American bikes? I’ve read about the API one from years back. Seems like it wasn’t too viable from a sales perspective back then. I don’t care to make my bike a highly tuned high maintenance dirt bike, but I like tinkering with things like that. Fuel mapping is cool, but ignition timing and other parameters would be nice to mess with. I’d rather keep the o2 sensor and adjust the target for it.

 

If you find it too high geared off-road try a 13t front sprocket. No need to change the chain. Nearly everyone agrees this is the most effective mod you can make. (cheap too).

 

You can find the Kawasaki manual on line no cost. Takes a bit of digging, I forget the link. I'll take the factory manual over most others because of the detail and obviously them having designed the bike.

 

I have the exhaust cam out now. I just rotated the acr about the same amount that M did. Of course his pictures are gone now. Any chance anyone can tell if this looks right? I rotated it counter clockwise when you look at it from the ACR end of the shaft. You can sort of see my original marks in the second photo. I find this whole acr piece to be strange. It appears to me that it would barely open one exhaust valve with an oddly shaped lob and it moves below the smallest o.d. of the actual lob when centrifugal force overcomes the spring. Looks like it wouldn’t help much..






For anyone that is timid of this mod, a small vise, some flat punches, an oven, and some ice (or freezer if you’re patient) and it’s actually pretty easy. My little vise was able to chuck up between the lobs with no issue. Punching it out took some force, but with heating the shaft and cooling the acr, it went right together with some milder taping. I’ve thoroughly inspected the shaft for any damage and can’t see any. I think that steel is harder than my vise jaws and punches anyhow.

 

Leave if off the cam !!!!!
We now have more than enough empirical data to prove that leaving it off is the "way to go" for fast startups, etc..

Once rotated as per M , it's effectiveness at its' job is curtailed anyway...