For reference to those running the stock header with aftermarket slip-on. This data is with the airlbox lid off, MCM or not, Slip-on, near sea level...


Edit 4/2017 to relay latest findings.
It is now verified, through member accounts, that best power levels are attained with DJ140(or K152) /1N with stock slide spring and stock slide lift port/hole. It is also verified to 5000 ft ASL with a altitude compensated main jet selection based off DJ140@sea level. Also, it has been reported that fuel mileage will be the same or better than standard stage 2. Also determined is that these fueling recipes apply to non-MCM bikes as well.

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So here is the best recipe for best power curves to date(4/2017): Edit on 5/13/2016 to show new information on use of Keihin jets, N1TC needle, and the MCM is now optional:


NOTE: All bikes should use the stock slide (undrilled lift hole) and stock slide spring. DO NOT use the DJ slide spring! If your slide lift port has been drilled (7/64ths or bigger), it must be JB welded closed and very carefully redrilled with a 3/32 bit. If you want more room for error while drilling, use a 5/64 bit.
Needle choices: Best-DJ2206 kit (DN0352 needle), Good-DJ2152 kit (DN0228 needle), Useable- N1TC needle, or for #2 below, a shimmed Stock needle.

1. Lidless + MCM or not + Stock Header with Slip-on Silencer OR KLX300 exhaust system(uncorked):Use a DJ140 or K152 main jet, needle clip at 1N, stock slide lift hole/port and stock slide spring - for max power near sea level.


2. Lidless + MCM/NON-MCM + Larger-than-stock Header (Full aftermarket performance exhaust system) : Use DJ144 or K158 main jet, clip set at 1N, stock slide lift port and stock slide spring - for max power near sea level. Alternatively, acceptable performance can be found by use of the stock slide, stock spring, and stock NNLA needle shimmed shorter with 2 DJ washers.

Notes:
To use 1N ( top most notch) you will be super-gluing the DJ washers to the top of the c-clip.

In each case, a larger pilot jet should be installed to gain increases in throttle response and acceleration at all, and from all, RPM's. Use a #40 for near sea level and up - #38 if your bike never goes below 3000' ASL.. Fuel screw MUST be set correctly to realize benefits. The correct setting is midway between idle drops. (Correct setting for a #40 near sea level has been found to usually be 1.75 - 2.00 turns out..)
#40 kawi part no 92064-1108
#38 kawi part no 92064-1050




3. Correct (re-calculate) main jet size for other altitudes using this calculator - Main Jet Correction

Use of this calculator:
My Dyno charted setups are at 750ft with an SAE standard day of 77F - So, interpolating off the chart and I get:
1. Baseline of DJ144/1N is (144 / .99) = 145.45
2. Baseline of DJ140/1N is (140 /.99) = 141.41

So, for example.. Lets say your bike is set up to make use of DJ140/1N/Lidless, but you're at 4500ft and it averages 68F during the months you ride. Take the baseline for 140/2N (141.41) X your table correction factor (.95) and you get 134.34 - So, to feel the "biggy" power, you'll need to be running DJ134/1N lidless..

Now look at all the different altitudes and temps that carry a correction factor close to your .95 .. This will tell you how much variance in altitude and temps your DJ134/1N/Lidless should operate well with...

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Edit 4/2017: Please note that all the below power levels, charts, and comments are now obsolete and superseded. New findings, as stated above, provide power levels significantly above those shown below. I will leave the below information on this post for historical reasons only.

Notes:
Near sea level - 500-700 ft ASL
DJ 2152 kit, lidless, DGR slip-on, Full MCM (both cams retimed and ACR repositioned)



The chart below is 140/5N, a #40 Pilot Jet with fuel screw set toward rich. It produced the highest peak HP numbers to date. However, it went too rich below 6.5K with the clip on 5N thus causing a loss of TRQ in the low end as well as peak numbers. The bike did run fantastic with this setup and top end power (above 7k), as can be seen, is incredible. Since clip changes are approximately one AFR point per notch, I will conclude this testing and will rest assured that 140/1N will produce a slightly better TRQ curve than DJ136/5N (see the chart below this one) as the DJ140 extends TRQ further out compared to the DJ136, and therefore a superior HP curve.. I can live with at least 21.72 HP and at least 16.29 lb ft TRQ!!



[SIZE="4"]This is 136/5N with stock pilot and 3.5 turns out on the fuel screw. In this thread, we are only concerned with the DGR data in green. This is a very good setup for power and economy. But I want to find out if more is available with a slightly richer AFR from 7k on up. What this chart proves is that superior TRQ curves are produced when midrange is held in the 13's as the slide is opening toward "fully raised". This can be tuned/achieved using clip position changes on a proper needle..[/SIZE]






[SIZE="5"]Previous Run with DJ136 , #35 Pilot with fuel screw at 3 out, 3N[/SIZE]



[SIZE="5"]Previous chart with DGR in RED[/SIZE]

 

Klxster,
Any chance you can get the dyno guy to also report the area under the curves from say 3.5k to 9krpm? Since we ride at variable rpm I would think that more area under the curve would better predict seat of the pants power better that peak values. A slightly lower peak with a high broad curve would be a faster bike in most riding situations that a higher peaky curve, IMHO.

 

I'm sorry, what you see is what I got. I've tried to get him to spin it up past 9k but, for some reason, he usually won't.

 

Can the dyno guy give you the data in spreadsheet format so we can analyze it ourselves?

 

Don't know about that - yet..

I do know the machine has stored the data on every single pull I've ever done..

 

Any idea how a KLX 300 can, with a 1" hole in the end cap, flows compared to the DGR?
I still want to replicate the Green torque line in chart #2.

 

No idea on flow rates between DGR+stock header and your modified KLX300 exhaust. Your at sea level. Assuming your carb is working correctly now, go 140/3N or 136/5N with a 2152 kit, pull the lid, make sure your filter is only very lightly oiled, set the fuel screw to midway between idle drops on your #38 pilot, and you should have your "green line" or very close to it.

Now if your still going up to 4000 ft on your rides, your setups will certainly have to favor either "up high" or "at home"..

 

I was reading an article on Motorcycle.com and found a really neat sidebar about 'area under the curve' among some other interesting concepts. About 1/2 way down the article, see the sidebar 'area under the curve': Church Of MO ? 2005 Open Supersport Shootout

The article is an archive of the 2005 literbike comparison.

 

Yes area under the curve is most important and that is what you get with a proper AFR on our bikes.. Study my charts and you see that our KLX's make beautiful broad curves - So even small increases in TRQ ,at various points on the RPM scale, turns out to be a LARGE increase in the area under these broad curves.. Another way of saying it is that even a small increase in peak TRQ and/or a broadening of the TRQ curve has a significant effect on the performance of the bike..

 

To be clear, I believe 140/2N, with any pilot jet, will be the perfect setup for - lidless, stock header+slipon , near sea level. I am presently trying to properly fuel my bike with the FMF system (Megabomb+PC4) but perhaps some day I'll test 140/2N with my DGR ...