2010 KLX250Sf rod Knock :)
#12
10-04-2018 | 05:55 PM
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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 12
1st Gear Member
Finally got 2 videos up
No video/audio. From what I've read here and on ADV rider threads, no rebuild available. You have to buy a whole crank.
I have a couple questions when it comes to the noise. Does the engine still have the automatic tensioner or a manual tensioner? If it still has the automatic tenseioner then Is it a knock or more of a rattle? Get a mechanic's stethoscope or use a long handle screwdriver with handle to the ear. Put the tip around the engine to see where the noise is loudest. Up around the cam chain tensioner and down around the crank. The KLX is known for automatic cam chain tensioners going bad so if the noise is loudest around the cam drive you may get off with just replacing the automatic tensioner. It can sound a bit like valve clicking, but is localized to the right side of the engine cylinder.
Let's hope it is simply the tensioner failed. If it is the tensioner it will be far less costly to deal with. A lot of riders here have switched, I happen to be the guy who started making them when contacted by riders several years ago. I also have KLXs, a 650 and a 250 both having failed OEM tensioners. If you find the tensioner may be bad, PM me and I can fill you in with more information.
I have a couple questions when it comes to the noise. Does the engine still have the automatic tensioner or a manual tensioner? If it still has the automatic tenseioner then Is it a knock or more of a rattle? Get a mechanic's stethoscope or use a long handle screwdriver with handle to the ear. Put the tip around the engine to see where the noise is loudest. Up around the cam chain tensioner and down around the crank. The KLX is known for automatic cam chain tensioners going bad so if the noise is loudest around the cam drive you may get off with just replacing the automatic tensioner. It can sound a bit like valve clicking, but is localized to the right side of the engine cylinder.
Let's hope it is simply the tensioner failed. If it is the tensioner it will be far less costly to deal with. A lot of riders here have switched, I happen to be the guy who started making them when contacted by riders several years ago. I also have KLXs, a 650 and a 250 both having failed OEM tensioners. If you find the tensioner may be bad, PM me and I can fill you in with more information.
#14
10-04-2018 | 11:45 PM
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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 33
From: New-Brunswick, Canada
1st Gear Member
That's a lot of stretch.... I'm not convinced.
When you pull out the tensioner it will be extended all the way because there is no more chain to push against, that's perfectly normal. You have to remove the center bolt and the spring, reset the tensioner all the way in and install it on the bike, then insert the spring and the middle bolt to reapply tension. DO NOT install the tensioner with the plunger all the way out or you will apply too much tension and probably break something.
When you pull out the tensioner it will be extended all the way because there is no more chain to push against, that's perfectly normal. You have to remove the center bolt and the spring, reset the tensioner all the way in and install it on the bike, then insert the spring and the middle bolt to reapply tension. DO NOT install the tensioner with the plunger all the way out or you will apply too much tension and probably break something.
Last edited by dp19; 10-04-2018 at 11:51 PM.
#15
10-04-2018 | 11:46 PM
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,562
From: Delaware, Ohio
1st Gear Member
Cam chain tensioner noise. A rod has a louder less frequent clunk. I got the order but was out of town. Should have it in the mail by Saturday. If it doesn't do the job I will refund your money after I get the tensioner back, I am that certain.
If you pull the tensioner out you will notice a wear pattern over 3-5 teeth where it is pushing in and moving back out. The bottom side will be polished from the sliding back and forth. The teeth will look fine, but the lead tooth has rounded slightly and will not bed in right. The manual tensioner will hold adjustment and is easy to deal with, adjusting only when you hear a very light click, nothing near as loud as that.
If you pull the tensioner out you will notice a wear pattern over 3-5 teeth where it is pushing in and moving back out. The bottom side will be polished from the sliding back and forth. The teeth will look fine, but the lead tooth has rounded slightly and will not bed in right. The manual tensioner will hold adjustment and is easy to deal with, adjusting only when you hear a very light click, nothing near as loud as that.
Last edited by klx678; 10-04-2018 at 11:50 PM.
#18
10-05-2018 | 02:09 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,562
From: Delaware, Ohio
1st Gear Member
Here. What started out as one for my KLX650 and Zephyr 550 plus a few extra kind of blossomed. Plus after making the KLX250 part for a year or so I ended up needing one myself when I bought a use KLX250 myself and the tensioner on it was bad.
My email is in the site, as is the information. email me for a quote.
My email is in the site, as is the information. email me for a quote.
Last edited by klx678; 10-05-2018 at 02:14 PM.
#19
10-06-2018 | 02:01 PM
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,050
From: Abilene, TX
1st Gear Member
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