I searched for six months, never could find a used '09 KLX250s in my area (even in the state! [Arizona]) to snag. There were plenty of 06 and 07 models but I really wanted a 2nd gen. Found one but the guy was asking too much for his used bike. I finally said screw it and bought a new 2010. I feel I paid a fair OTD price, it had .02 miles on it when I picked it up - only from the mechanic taking it up and down the street after prep. Never had a new bike in my life, I deserve it!

I took it out on my newly purchased hitch hauler yesterday [never used one before other than taking it home from the dealer, man was I freaked about having a new bike hang off the back of my truck!] to a rural area outside of town; long roads, no traffic, to do the break in as suggested by the mototune site and MANY others. I've been lurking mostly here and a couple other forums for months and I really believe the mototune method makes perfect sense.

After the 20mile break in, I hooked the bike on the hitch and headed home to change the oil and filter. [Kawi 10w-40 and Kawi filter] The filter was pretty nasty and there were a few metal filings to be found. I didn't really inspect the oil in the pan but may later on.

I'm going to do all the standard mods next month, FMF Q4, KDX snorkel, DynoJet stage 2, Kouba screw, UNI filter, etc etc etc...

One thought. So many people say how crappy and disappointing the stock KLX is due to lack of umph. I pictured the power of a 1974 XL175 and was expecting to be bummed out right off the bat, wishing I would have bought a WR250R and/or was thinking I'd be running home to do all the mods right away. I really didn't find it lacking in power as many say whatsoever!

Maybe it needs to lift the front wheel with a twist of the throttle bone stock to please some?

Really not clear on what there is to complain about - It's a compromise, it's not a KX250F, it's not a ZX-10R - it's a dual-sport four-stroke 249cc bike that tries to give you good parts of both worlds; it is what it is. I thought it ran really well!!

Perhaps I got a good tank of gas, or perhaps someone snuck some 104-octane boost into the tank, or maybe the 2010's are a bit peppier stock; I dunno but I was quite happy to not be immediately disappointed. I'm sure I'll be even more pleased with the extra little bit of power the mods will bring.

Question: when should I change the oil and filter again? at 50? 100? 200? I'm a maintenance freak so I was thinking at 50 again then at 150?... Is that overkill?

I want to thank everyone here on the forums for their contributions over the years. I would have most likely never even bought the bike if not for this site, heck, for me; researching, reading, learning and tweaking/tinkering in the garage while listening to music/talk radio [Logitech Squeezebox Radio RULES!] is half the fun! I have learned a TON in the past few months using the search engine and taking notes, thanks again. :-)

 

I did a mototune-ish break in myself and changed the oil at 100 and 700 miles. I was planning on doing it a 600 but just didn't have the time.

You can't change the oil too much so do whatever makes you feel better but personally i think change at 100 then again 500 miles later and then settle into whatever maintenance schedule you would normally do.

 

I have used the Mototune technic with several bikes to include BMW's, Suzuki's Honda's, etc. I changed oil and filter right after the proceedure then again at normal intervals. I've never had any problem doing this, no unusual noises or smoking.

 

Since oil filters get MORE efficient as they get loaded, I'd say leave it alone.

All this fretting about changing filters and oil so often is OLD, OLD, OLD school. It's just not necessary as it may have been in the olden days. Sure, there can be some scharf from the initial run-in (probably more from the transmission gears than anything), but, it's LARGE pieces, which are easily trapped in the filter, and they aren't going to hurt anything. I haven't looked at the schematic on the KLX, but, the KLR650 has a PRE-filter screen that catches all the really big stuff...if the KLX has this, you'll certainly not be able to rest until you open up whichever side of the case you must in order to clean out that screen (it's the left side case on the KLR650).

But, if it makes you feel better, continue as planned! It's your bike!

 

The silvery sheen of my first oil change seems to disagree with you.

 

Well, you only have 20 miles on it.. Ride it a little more and you'll realize it's gutless in stock form!
Good luck with it, they're fun bikes either way you look at it.
I think I may go for a ride today

 

Used oil analysis results support my conclusion. What was the content of the silvery sheen? Was it potassium? Phosphorous? Assembly lube? Coolant? Fairy dust? The fact is: you don't know, because you didn't test it.

UOA's also do not support your statement that you can't change your oil too often. Modern oils actually seem to improve for a while as they are "run-in", ostensibly due to the chemical changes of heat/stress cycling allows some of the additives be be "activated". Again, it's fine to do whatever you want to do...in 50K miles, there may be no difference in bikes with multiple oil and filter changes. IOW, mine may not be in better condition because I didn't spend so much time, energy, and resources following your OLD, OLD, OLD school practices. But, I bet mine won't be in worse condition!

 

The Mototune method seems to work excellently on most motorcycles and cages, and it's somewhat logical when you read the site's information on the procedure.

I also agree somewhat with CL on the assessment of the bone stock KLX250. When we got one back in '06 at the shop I used to work at, I couldn't wait to get my hands on it for a test ride. Wow!...what a disappointment. I get to ride all types of bikes from that shop, so I don't/didn't have unrealistic expectations. In bone stock form these bikes are gutless from both my experience and opinion. Now...the flip side is that the character of the bike totally changes when you ditch the OEM pipe, open the airbox, do a full rejet that includes a needle change and slide modification, and gear down the bike slightly if you're going off road. The bike does not become a KX250F by any means, but it will now produce some throttle response, some low/mid range torque, and just a noticeable jump in snap all across the board. I cannot imagine riding one of these bikes in stock form.

On the oil changing, these posts can become about as controversial as a "what oil to use" thread. The initial oil change in a Mototune method is probably the most important. Manufacturing fluids and particles are often present, and a quick 1 or 2 oil and filter changes are a good idea. And really, a cleaning of the oil screen down by the pump on the clutch side is a very decent idea. Chunks of silicone gasket material, metal shavings, and other types of debris are usually present here. This is like the main heart valve for oil circulation, and it's good for it to be open. Few people do this on any bike that has one, and most all the time there don't seem to be any serious issues. However, many folks are horrified to see what's in that screen later on when they do a clutch, big bore kit, or other engine service on that right side.

If you're using good quality oil, after the 1st oil change...or 2nd if you so desire...I don't believe there's any reason to dump the oil in this motor any sooner than 1500 miles...unless you've overcooked the engine or such...and then you probably have other issues anyway. This is a watercooled engine. It is a decently understressed engine. In these types of designs, I have seen the results from some of them who've actually had their oil tested by one of those labs. Quality oil appears to be capable of many more miles than 1500, even with a wet clutch. The higher strung performance, pure racing bikes out there with even tinier amounts of oil than the KLX can benefit from more frequent changes, but the KLX is perfectly happy with 1500 mile intervals. The oil filter should be more than adequate for doing its job through a couple of oil dumps without any concern...about 3000 miles.

Many owners feel warm and fuzzy with fresh oil and new spark plugs in bikes like these. Nothing wrong with that, but it's often not required with such high frequency.

 

Well i don't know what it was, but i sure don't want ANYTHING in my oil as far as contamination. How do i define contamination ? Anything that wasn't already in the oil when i put it in there.

Could you please cite a source of the "broken in oil" theory ? I've heard that repeated so many times but no one seems to know where it comes from or have any proof to back it up.

 

I did pretty much the same thing you did on the 09. I have riden all kinds of street bike of all sizes and was pretty impressed with the little 250. Maybe it doesn't take all that much to impress me. I just recently did pretty much the same mods you are talking about doing and I'm quite happy with the way it has turned out. I haven't had the chance to do much other than some street riding and a little (very little) off road but I think I wll be happy with this one for a while.