I didn't but it looked like everything was synced up correctly. I just can't see this bike having this problem with the low amount of miles that is on it. I did notice though that I have an oil leak in the air box, because the filter keeps getting saturated -- maybe overfilled the oil? Also, it seems to start easier when the airbox is open and the filter is out. I took the carb off again and adjusted the float level and took a piece of hose and hooked it up to the tank so I can see where the float is setting, so that is set perfectly now. I can't think of anything else. I was running around on it earlier and it sounded absolutely great, except it still wants to idle high (at like 3,000 rpm) and if I turn the idle screw down, it will idle down until it dies.

 

But you have a compression issue at the moment... and though you may have additional problems such as the carb (which it sounds as though you kinda do) its hard to address them without fixing at least what you know... I don't know if your 40 something psi is entirely the KACR or not.

 

Have you buttoned it back up already? Really a shame to have not checked the valve clearances properly, ie with a feeler gauge.
Is the KACR free to move; does the spring return it?
Troubleshooting is a methodical process not just a "looked OK" affair.
This is intended as "just a friendly nudge", no offense intended.

 

I'm not taking anything offensively, I really appreciate anyone's input. When I checked out the KACR the spring does return, I saw in the manual how to see if the spring was too tight or too loose and it looked fine. I noticed when I was adjusting the float that everytime I drained the carb I noticed little black specs of crap in the drained fuel -- possibly diaphragm or jet deterioration? I can check the valve clearances and that might explain the start issue, but It still wouldn't explain the high idling issue. I don't have a super accurate compression tester, it's a cheap one from harbor freight -- which I am told is generally off about 20PSI for each attachment on it, so that may explain the 45PSI. I'm going to drain to oil again when I get the new oil filter I ordered (I never did replace this) and fill it up with 10w40 mobil 1 motorcycle oil and make sure I get it well within between the two marks. I'm going to pull the carb back off again today and check the diaphragm because I never pulled that part off and looked on the inside of it. I'm also going to boil the jets to be sure that there's no debris inside those, even though I can see through them and I have cleaned them several times.

 

Hey carb guys - should he boil the whole carb (after removing diaphragm) and not just the jets?

 

I won't claim any absolute knowledge here, but I don't like the way the pot metal...or whatever...in the carb reacts with water. Ever see the crazy corrosion that starts with just a little water in the bowl? I realize the water wouldn't sit in the carb for a long time using some kind of boil method, but think of all the tiny passages for water to lurk. I think there's a reason that the accepted carb body cleaning method involves a dunk in a can of real carb cleaner.

 

Today's carb cleaners aren't even what carb cleaner used to be in yesteryear, if you know what I mean. The "green" trend has really wussed out a lot of products.

 

I would be very nervous about boiling the carb itself, especially with that sensor that is inside...

 

I cleaned up the carb once again, nothing looked clogged. I am able to get the bike only running with the air filter off with no choke. I am however able to push start it with the air filter in and the seat on. Still idling way too high and will not start like it should.

 

Sounds as though there is STILL something wrong with the fuel side of things.

Are there any air leaks between the carb and the head? Spray some WD40 all around the boot to see if that makes any difference.

Some tiny orifice that you can't see is still gummed up??